The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2019 8:52 pm 
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Location: Oxfordshire
Hi guys,

I posted a while back in the general chat section saying I was on the lookout for a dolly/toledo. As of yesterday evening i now own a 1980 1300 Dolomite, reg KJN784V.

Here are some pics:

Image
Image

As you can probably make out it needs some bodywork, the rear arches are a bit rusty, the wings are very rusty, some bits around the doors need doing. It's had sills before I owned it and underneath looks OK as far as i can tell.

So far looks like it's pretty much all original minus an electronic ignition module, the battery + alternator, and a head unit with some speakers on the rear shelf (not sure i'll be keeping those.)
The engine seems to be in OK shape but misfires a bit under load, my dad's suspicion is that the single SU carb needs a bit of a clean internally as he had a similar issue with his marinas/minis. I think ideally i'll get another 1300 to build up as well just in the case that this one goes pop as the speedo is saying the car is on just over 93000 miles.

Stuff it needs:
  • carb refurbing/setting up properly
  • wings sorting - i have some fibreglass ones to go on but not sure if i'll use them, would prefer metal.
  • rear arches - need welding on both sides
  • dents - various dents around the body which i will get sorted, look like they haven't taken paint off so may be as simple as getting someone to pull them out?
  • brakes - the pedal goes almost completely to the floor - need to invesigate this ASAP. it has dual circuit(tandem) brakes as it's a later model so may have a leak somewhere, need to have a look. pumping the brake does not do much. the reservoir is pretty much empty however it does seem to stop eventually.
  • interior - seats are torn, need replacement. I quite like the tan interior really so might look for another set.
  • diff - leaks, whines, sounds like it wants to die
  • choke cable - rusty and doesn't return properly.
  • clutch release bearing? - something is a bit noisy when disengaging the clutch. not a huge issue and the clutch seems to work fine.

Other plans:
  • get rid of rear speakers and get the original ones working
  • rev counter clocks? probably not a huge priority
  • polish the chrome
  • paint rocker cover wrinkle red or body colour
  • the steering wheel isn't quite central, not sure if it's off by a few splines or something but tilts to the right. The car has recently had an alignment so I'm not sure whats going on with it but probably just need to adjust the wheel.
  • touch up general dings and dents OR give the whole car a respray in carmine red
  • feu orange air freshener!

Anyway, I am hoping to sort the carb out and brakes as soon as i can so i can get it to some shows, the rest can be done over time. Really hoping to get to the Notcutts car show this year as that's what introduced me properly into dolomites!

if anyone has any spares or any clues to the above problems please let me know - I am located in Oxfordshire. cheers!

_________________
1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 3:42 pm 
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Location: Bristol
I would start by taking the rear brake drums off so that you can check for leaking brake cylinders. Plus give them, the drums a clean out, check the shoes for wear and that the slave cylinders slide in the back plate.
Then visually check the brake pipes throughout the length of the cars for leaks etc.
Then check that the front calipers are not leaking and that the brake cylinders are free to move.
Next look at the brake servo just below the brake cylinder to see if there is any hydraulic fluid running down there if there is any you have a leaking seal. Next top up the brake fluid and bleed the system. (Do not worry about setting the brake failure sensor at this point). If the brake pedal still goes a long way down you have problem within the master cylinder and I would recommend a replacement from the club.


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 7:43 pm 
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Quote:
I would start by taking the rear brake drums off so that you can check for leaking brake cylinders. Plus give them, the drums a clean out, check the shoes for wear and that the slave cylinders slide in the back plate.
Then visually check the brake pipes throughout the length of the cars for leaks etc.
Then check that the front calipers are not leaking and that the brake cylinders are free to move.
Next look at the brake servo just below the brake cylinder to see if there is any hydraulic fluid running down there if there is any you have a leaking seal. Next top up the brake fluid and bleed the system. (Do not worry about setting the brake failure sensor at this point). If the brake pedal still goes a long way down you have problem within the master cylinder and I would recommend a replacement from the club.
Thanks very much for the info. I suspect there is a leak or it needs a bleed, topped up the fluid and there’s a massive difference now. Seems to brake almost at the top of the pedal.

Today I have been working on the dolly, have replaced some old hoses such as the heater pipes and fuel hoses. My dad and I took the carb apart, the float chamber was full of grot so cleaned it up with some petrol. Seems to run a lot better now but I think the mixture is slightly off because of the float valve being slightly worn. Off to the Chiltern Hills rally tomorrow so will keep an eye out. Also need an air filter as the last one was wrecked.

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1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 9:03 pm 
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Location: Oxfordshire
Here are some pics from today, took it for a spin to make sure the coolant system was all bled properly, think it's running a bit too cool if anything so maybe the thermostat has had it. runs a whole lot better with the carb cleaned!

here are the old heater hoses:
Image

and the new ones installed, bit dusty but not cracked.
Image

Image

they aren't r9 but will do for now. will change them when they crack, running a bit short on funds as in the process of moving house.

Image

absolutely loving this car, have owned a few odd cars such as a 180sx, a volvo 340 and a toyota soarer, but none of those have put as big a smile on my face as this one. :D

and an interior shot, the parcel shelf is in really good nick, the seats are worn but i don't care too much. don't mind the brake fluid in the passenger footwell, was just bringing it in case of an emergency.

Image

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1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2019 9:13 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 3:32 pm
Posts: 358
Great work Jack! You are making quick progress.
Worth checking all hoses etc - some of the new ones you buy don't seem to last long at all -modern rubber.

See you tomorrow at the show!

MC

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Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 2:14 pm 
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Thanks Matt. Had a great time at the show and was nice to see you and mike.


I have had a look at why the brakes are spongey, turns out I have a leaky wheel cylinder. I’m going to replace both rears I think so have some on order now.

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1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 8:35 pm 
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here's the dolly at the show yesterday!

Image

yesterday afternoon/today i've painted the rocker cover in wrinkle red and replaced the choke cable clip next to the carb. it's still sticking slightly but i have a new cable on the way.

Image

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1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 8:36 am 
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Joined: Wed May 17, 2017 5:28 pm
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Location: NANTWICH.
Welcome to the forum Jack :D You are making good progress with the bits and pieces, i just hope the enjoyment you are having does not wear off, as our cars can get tiring at times :lol: :lol:

Tony.

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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 3:44 pm 
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Location: Bristol
Make certain you get the correct slave cylinders for your car, being a dual line system you need UKC1258. Externally they look the same as the ukc765 but they have smaller pistons 5/8 inch in dia (O. 625 inch) against the 0.7 inch that is fitted in the single line system. I recommend you measure the dia before you fit even if you are told they are UKC1258.

I also recommend you soak the brake pipe connections for as long as possible before you attempt to unbolt or you will end up having to get new pipes made up.


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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 4:48 pm 
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Thanks guys. Yes I’ve gone for the later 15.9mm ones, those are the correct ones aren’t they? Any ideas what to soak them in? Plus gas? Cheers.

Have lots of parts on order like new carb seals, needles, choke cable, air filter and rad hoses etc. I know it seems like I’m not tackling the rust issues but they will be sorted as soon as I can put the dolly in my new garage.

_________________
1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 8:17 pm 
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Plus Gas is good stuff Jack - WD40 also helps things along too.

I think you are doing the right thing getting the engine running well first - at least you will know it is all up together for when your bodywork is shipshape again.

Looking at it at the weekend though it looks very solid. Good around the windscreen etc - even the wings I'm sure are repairable rather than fitting replacements.

Keep us posted! Richard is my Father In Law, so I'm lucky to have him as a source of advice!

_________________
Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU


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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 8:29 pm 
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Location: Bristol
While cleaning my cars I suddenly remembered your car is a 1300 and not a 1500 so I gave you the wrong info the correct slave cylinder for a dual line 1300 is GWC1202 and the single line is a GWC1110. My assumption is that again the dual line has a smaller diameter piston. I hope another 1300 owner will be able to confirm this.


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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 8:51 pm 
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cheers chaps. these are the ones i got: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Brake-W ... 2749.l2649

going to feel like christmas soon i reckon. just been out in the dolly and the fuel gauge seems to be all over the shot haha. think next time i'll fill up at half way just in case :lol:

absolutely love this car!

_________________
1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 7:16 pm 
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Location: Bristol
In respect to you petrol gauge problem I would start by giving the fuse box connections a good clean up and a spray of WD40 to slow up any corrosion. At the same time check you have a couple of spare fuses. They should be stowed in the holes in the body of the fuse box.

I do not know if you are aware that the petrol gauge system and the temperature measurement system are both fed from a voltage regulator which is situated on the engine compartment bulkhead ( offside top area, see photo). The original type can give problems due to their age / lack of use but it would pay to check that the body of the voltage regulator is well earthed by the fixing screws. I have also had just bad cable contacts onto the voltage regulator causing a problem. I think most owners have replaced the original type with a modern electronic type. Your problem might also be due to a lack of use and corrosion building up on the tank sensor wiper. This may clear up with use.

Coming back to the fitting of new rear brake cylinders I would also recommend you purchase a brake connection spanner as it is very easy to damage the nuts if you use an ordinary open ended spanner (see photo)

A common problem found in rear brake drums is that the small H pieces are often missing or fitted incorrectly from the slave cylinders. (see photo)

Richard
Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2019 9:19 pm 
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Location: Oxfordshire
thanks for the info richard! is there any way of testing the voltage regulator with a voltmeter tool?

i don't suppose you know the size of the bolts connected to the brake lines? i think my dad has a couple of those special spanners but if not in the right size i'll go and get one.

loads of parts arrived today, have some new carb bits to hopefully sort out the dodgy mixture possibly caused by jet seals and gaskets that are missing and the float needle that was worn.

cheers

_________________
1973 2-door Triumph Toledo 1300
2016 Ford Fiesta ST-2
2007 Suzuki SV650S


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