The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 9:56 pm 
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Location: Bristol
My personal view is that, despite all the dire warnings about copper brake pipes, I've yet to see one that has failed in use from vibration. Only ones I've seen are those that have been bent or twisted when undoing/doing up a couple of times.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:08 pm 
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Has anyone managed to get seat cushions from another model of car to fit? I need to measure up to find one a similar size but there are loads of moulded seat foams available for modern and classic cars. Surely there must be something out there that is similar?

Mine are so knackered, they're quite painful to sit on. Especially the back.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2016 9:00 pm
Posts: 1014
Quote:
The club do supply single line master cylinders, contact Alun Nicholas (xvivalve on here) for details of these and also the repair panels you may need for the car. Or the parts hotline!

You do need to be a member to buy club spares but it's a worthwhile investment! The club sells bits you just can't get elsewhere!

Steve

PS, I can supply any or all of the hard brake lines for your Sprint. Made to order in copper or Kunifer and guaranteed to exactly match the length of the originals. Most aftermarket sets are a bit generous in length and come in a "one size fits all" kit which is not correct, there is quite a lot of differences between pipes on various models of Dolomite! For a few dollars more, I also do a rear axle pipe modification which makes a better job of it than the original design by equalizing the length of the pipes to the rear cylinders.

PPS, Turn up to TDCIR in whatever you like! all Dolomite fans are welcome no matter what their other fetishes may be!
I can vouch for the correct lengths of Steve's pipes, I ordered a complete set of Kunifer for my 1850, and they did fit. In future I would go for copper - why? it's easier to work and my brother was in the trade for 50 years with no failures. (that he knows of 8) )
I also have the rear axle set Steve refers to, maybe I'll fit this year and test, with my brown underwear on...


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2019 11:49 pm 
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Should there be an o-ring on the middle bit of this piston? This is a new clutch slave from Robsport.
Image

I hoped to get this installed tonight but a flipping cold has put paid for me having any energy in the evenings to do stuff at the moment.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2019 11:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 20, 2006 10:10 am
Posts: 380
Location: Netherlands
My personal view on the Dolomite brake set-up: For road use I'm happy and confident in the standard Sprint set-up, BUT ONLY when in really good condition and fitted with top quality consumables. As an example I’ve used:

- New disks. I’ve used EBC, but standard (OE) or Rossini could work out fine too.
- Mintex M1144 compound brake pads, this is the first upgrade from standard with a higher temperature working range. You could also go for M1155 or M1166 compound with even higher temp. range depending on your use.
- Good quality brake fluid with a high boiling point (Motul RBF660) as used in racing motor bikes
- Quality wheel bearings and high-melting point grease (Silkolene RG2) because the bearings tend to absorb a lot of heat from the brakes
- Make sure your rear drums are adjusted perfectly, this makes for a better pedal feel which sits higher and gives more confidence

With this set-up, brake fading is moved to a higher temperature point. For my driving, fast road but flat (no hills in The Netherlands :wink: ) I have not encountered any brake-fade problems.

Your intended use and geographical circumstances may differ, so consider what suits you best. For trackday use the Trackerjack upgrade seems good value.


Hope this helps :D

_________________
Ronald
Club Triumph Holland - Dolomite Registrar




www.triumphowners.com/tahitisprint


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2019 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7014
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Should there be an o-ring on the middle bit of this piston? This is a new clutch slave from Robsport.
Image

I hoped to get this installed tonight but a flipping cold has put paid for me having any energy in the evenings to do stuff at the moment.
No, only one seal on a slave cylinder piston!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 12:02 am 
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Got on with changing out this clutch slave tonight.
Image

Clevis pin off first.
Image

Pushrod was pretty rusty and nasty looking.
Image

The pushrod hole was rather elongated too.
Image

With the pin in, there is quite a lot of play. No doubt this will reduce the effectiveness of the clutch slaves operation.
Image

Then undid the back hose and removed the slave cylinder. Had to spin the body of the clutch slave rather than the hose fittings, as the hose fittings were pretty much seized together.
Image

Fluid that came out was really something else.
Image

The last owner had not long bled the clutch system before I bought it, to try and improve the clutch operation. If this didn't smell like brake fluid, I'd be thinking that this was actually rusty brown water!
Image

Clutch bore was even worse.
Image

Tomorrow I plan to weld some washers onto the pushrod and hopefully get some of the lost motion back. I found a thicker clevis pin from my box of bits that is pretty round. Seem to remember it was from an MGB or similar, so readily available as a alternative part. Fits nicely in the washers with little play. Just need to double check that the arm on the gearbox will take the pin too. That's elongated as well but hopefully the fatter pin will take up any slack on that end.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 12:12 am 
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Quote:
My personal view on the Dolomite brake set-up: For road use I'm happy and confident in the standard Sprint set-up, BUT ONLY when in really good condition and fitted with top quality consumables. As an example I’ve used:

- New disks. I’ve used EBC, but standard (OE) or Rossini could work out fine too.
- Mintex M1144 compound brake pads, this is the first upgrade from standard with a higher temperature working range. You could also go for M1155 or M1166 compound with even higher temp. range depending on your use.
- Good quality brake fluid with a high boiling point (Motul RBF660) as used in racing motor bikes
- Quality wheel bearings and high-melting point grease (Silkolene RG2) because the bearings tend to absorb a lot of heat from the brakes
- Make sure your rear drums are adjusted perfectly, this makes for a better pedal feel which sits higher and gives more confidence

With this set-up, brake fading is moved to a higher temperature point. For my driving, fast road but flat (no hills in The Netherlands :wink: ) I have not encountered any brake-fade problems.

Your intended use and geographical circumstances may differ, so consider what suits you best. For trackday use the Trackerjack upgrade seems good value.


Hope this helps :D
That helps a lot. I'm pretty convinced myself that I'm going to go for a stock setup for now. A lot less hassle in finding parts, phoning insurance to notify of mods, setting up and fitting. Especially cost and speed right now. I'd like to get the car safe and on the road asap. My aim is ideally end of next month to have it in a proper usable fashion. That way I can get some enjoyment out of it before the season is up. Then over winter get the bodywork sorted.

Definitely not going to say it's going to stay like it forever though. Even if it's to give the mod a go and experience it!

I'll be getting an order over to the club and different suppliers for brake bits very soon. Need to get the back wheels off and check the state of that first. If it's a bit manky, I'll rebuild. If it looks all relatively fresh, I won't order anything for the back. I'm hoping it's good because rebuilding drums is not something I enjoy too much.
Quote:
No, only one seal on a slave cylinder piston!

Steve
Thanks, wasn't sure. That groove in the piston looks like it was there for a reason and I wasn't sure if that was for an extra seal.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 5:51 pm 
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Quote:
You sure that gearbox mount didn't have "Metalastik" written on them? Looks like it's missing the large bell washer and dropped a bit too.

Image
Just seen your post, somehow I missed it! Yes you are right, mine does seem to be missing the big washer at the bottom. I did see your post on here about the volvo (?) mount that can be modded to fit when Googling around.

I've just ordered this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191737018560

Do I need to drop the rear subframe off to mount the mount? Or can it be done all in-situ and unbolting the old mount?

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 6:14 pm 
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Location: Shetland / here & there
Quote:
Do I need to drop the rear subframe off to mount the mount? Or can it be done all in-situ and unbolting the old mount?
Do you mean the gearbox crossmember that the mount fits into? Assuming yes then good question, never thought about doing it in-situ, but I suspect that the gearbox mounting bracket and stud would prove to be a problem in getting the mount up there let alone removing the old one though be simple enough to round file the slots needed in-situ. To be frank, it's dead easy to get the crossmember off, just 4 nuts to make your life a lot less complicated! If you dis actually mean the subframe, no need to mess with that.

_________________
Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 6:21 pm 
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Sorry yes I meant the crossmember, not subframe. I assume I need to support the box on a jack too?

How deep did you need to pack the mount out to make it sit properly? I seem to remember you said around 9mm?

Is that big bell washer no longer a necessary thing with the Volvo mount? Otherwise I'll have to try sourcing another one.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 6:25 pm 
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When the rear gearbox crossmember is off you might as well strip to bare metal, treat with your preffered brand of rust-stop, coat with your preferred brand of rust-stop primer, then coat with your preferred brand of under-the car paint.
**warning** this can get addictive. :)
On one of the posts on the gearbox mount thread someone made a plastic 'umbrella' to stop leaking gearbox oil from damaging the mount, I copied this using some thick polythene sheet. Not that my gearbox leaks... :shock:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 6:33 pm 
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Location: Over here...can't you see me?
Looking back at your photo's, your gearbox mount has a sandwich plate missing!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 11:51 pm 
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Job tonight is fixing the push rod hole. Pulled the welder out and setup
Image

Pretty colours
Image

Looks messy but I went to town with adding material to make sure there was no empty pocket in the middle when I clean this all up
Image

Ten minutes with the flap disc on the outside and grinding disc on the inside
Image

Drill holes. A tad larger than I'd like but then my Lidl pillar drill was cheap and it's chuck wobbles around a bit.
Image

Quick spray of Poundland paint. Awful stuff but hopefully good enough for this
Image
Image

While that was drying, I then made the mistake at poking the front of the drivers sill.
Image

All this was done with fingers poking and pulling.
Image
Image

Hard to tell from these pictures but unfortunately I think whoever did these sills last, simply welded them over the top of the old. Certainly at this front section.

Blue bit is the outer. Just below that is another outer. Thin piece in the middle is the strengthener.
Image

This got me a bit worried so I went poking further down. Thankfully the rest seems solid still at the moment.

I shone the torch through the new hole in the front and had a peak through this hole on the inner sill.
Image

Looking up I think you can see the outer sill welded at the top.
Image

Looking down at the bottom of the sill, it appears the inner membrane is still attached to the inner and outer sills.
Image

So hopefully it's just that front bit that I need to fix and not do a whole sill replacement. Had enough of doing that on the 1100 sills! It's a small and simple enough repair that I'm hoping I can get away with fabricating something out of some sheet steel. I'm just hoping that there is enough clean and decent metal behind there to weld onto.

I need to inspect further down at some point. I'll get my cheapy snake cam down inside the sill and hopefully see better what state it is in. If it has had a replacement sill welded over the top, I'd like to chop the whole length of the sill off and redo it properly. However with a hopeful house move soon, that won't be happening this side of Christmas. It'll have to make do with cutting a bit out, a patch welded on and a bit of paint to cover up.

I'm just glad I didn't cancel my BOC gas contract! :lol:

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


Last edited by SiC on Fri Aug 02, 2019 12:25 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 11:57 pm 
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Quote:
Looking back at your photo's, your gearbox mount has a sandwich plate missing!
Do you mean the metal piece that is at the bottom of this picture?
Image

I noticed that when I was skimming through the thread and saw Galileo post I missed. I can't find one in the boxes of bits that were supplied with the car. It appears to be NLA too.

What purpose does it serve? Holding the mount rubber in to stop it drooping like mine has done?

Do you happen to have any in stock? I need to put an order in to you at some point very soon on the club rebuilt brake hydraulic spares and a possibly drivers floor panel. However the rate that I'm poking through some of this metal work, I may end up needing to order even more metal panels!

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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