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Tell you what, don't decide yet! You've plenty to be getting on with!
Get yourself up to the TDCIR near Oxford (even if it's in a modern) on Sept 8th, biggest gathering of Dolomites in the world annually, it's our big show! I'll take you out for a spin in my TJ equipped car and i'm sure someone will do the same in a stocker! If that doesn't convince you, then stick to stock and good luck to you!
I was just reading about that. I've been to millets a lot over the years and know it quite well. Not far for me to go either. Would it be wrong though to turn up to a Triumph meet in an BGT?
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On other questions you've raised, yes the wheel nuts are aluminium and the 3/8" UNF ones on your early car are quite fragile and also quite hard to obtain. Later cars (VA 20000>) however had 7/16" studs and nuts, the nuts are quite plentiful but the 7/16" studs are NLA and also hard to swap out, at least on the rear. I got mine by swapping out the front hubs and rear 1/2 shafts for later ones.
I did see the rather low torque figures on the nuts, so I resisted the urge/laziness to undo them with my impact wrench. Glad I did!
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I'd also replace all the rubber brake hoses and metal pipes if they've not been done already, Goodrich braided hoses and cupro nickel Kunifer metal pipes are best, fit and forget! Best put new rear wheel cylinders in too, they're relatively cheap!
Flexis look like they have been replaced at some point this decade and not in bad shape. However cheap enough to just lob on some new ones while I'm there. Hard lines from the Flexi to calipers look a bit crusty though. Not investigated the hard lines too much further back yet.
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Sump plugs are a bit of a sod to seal, so are often screwed in by Hercules and require equal (or more) force to remove. I prefer the large Stilson wrench method to remove them. New ones ARE available and cheap as chips. Its the same plug as the gearbox filler so get 2! My party trick here for "future proofing" the plugs, is to take an angle grinder to the new plugs and grind them down to a 10mm square from a tapered 11mm (7/16") then you can buy a genuine Facom tool for not much money that is designed to do these jobs on Renaults, i'll get the Facom tool part number off mine if I can find it.
That's made me even more tempted to suck the oil out for now. Moss and Rimmers do the correct spanner in getting the plug out so I'll probably order one of them. Sump plug might be worth replacing as starting to round off already.
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Judging by the colour, that slave cylinder is fairly new (old ones are plain rust colour) and doesn't appear to be particularly leaky. Again, due to lousy design, the Sprint slave is a PITA to bleed correctly. the best way is to get the rear of the car 3ft off the ground so the slave is level when bleeding. Some folk reckon it's worth making a bleed return pipe too, to get the bleed screw above the level in the reservoir.
Repro part then! Probably why it looks to be leaking then.
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That heat shield, with it's backing is (or is supposed to be) rivetted to the tunnel housing. The backing material may, or may not contain Asbestos! In any case your exhaust is too close to yours for comfort! This may have a couple of causes, 1) Rimmer bros or other aftermarket lousy fit downpipe 2) collapsed o/s engine mount (check clearance between o/s rack mount and oil pump, there should be some!) Either of these could be helping your noise problem along!
It definitely looks like asbestos but either way I'm going to put my PP3 mask on and remove it. Thanks for the other tips, I'll go and investigate. Clearance between the body and the exhaust definitely is pretty close and tighter than I imagined it should be.
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If the brake fluid is black, the seals almost certainly need attention. you can kit it or go mad and use a club exchange master cylinder, these are stainless steel sleeved for longer life.
HTH, Steve
Do the club stock single line masters? I'm convinced I read somewhere they do, but I can't find it on the parts list.
Who is the go to contact in the club for spares?
Thanks for all the advice!