The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 7:50 am 
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Location: Over here...can't you see me?
Yes, that’s the plate I mean;I hadn’t read the full thread when I posted, so didn’t realise Galileo had already spotted this.

I may have one knocking about somewhere, I’ll have a look...

Most panels kept in stock...


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 12:43 am 
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Another evening of small but steady progress.

Fitted the pushrod back in and connected it all up. Bleeding the system was pretty uneventful. I used a zip tie to hold the cylinder closed and reduce the amount of air needed to push out the bleed nipple.
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Works pretty well and has full travel now. Clutch pedal squeaks a bit though!
[YouTube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ulba3K81bo0[/YouTube]

Decided to clean up the gear selector ball as full of filthy old grease.
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Works a lot smoother now and gives a positive action. On the Sprint, is the gear stick supposed to self centre? Mine certainly doesn't.
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While I was there, I gave the top of the gear knob a clean up with a toothbrush and methylated spirits.
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A small thing but it's nice to grab something that doesn't look all filthy and dull.
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I'm a bit concerned about how close the down pipe for the exhaust is to the body. Basically the width of a spanner clearance. I'm wondering if the plate at the bottom of the gearbox mount was left out to cause the box to drop a bit. Thus giving a bit extra clearance for the down pipe. However this could mean that the gearbox is sitting on the crossmember and won't be doing any favours with noise.
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As I removed the remains of the heatshield, I've given that area a good wrap around with some exhaust wrap. Hopefully will stop the exhaust heating up the cabin and not give a risk of the carpet the other side getting burnt.
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Started to put the transmission tunnel back on but it's being a pain to try lining up the bolt holes. Something I'll finish another day once I have daylight.
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_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 10:12 am 
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I'm sure you've seen this full post all ready but if someone else is reading this and wondering what this thing about Volvo mounts is all about then click here.

The good news is that if you're moving to the Volvo mount you don't need the bell washer, it's built into the Volvo mount design. I measured the difference in height at 9mm, but I didn't have a brand new original mount to compare and in actual fit I ended up using 6mm of shims instead.

As an aside, and I don't want to with my best adenoidal voice keep pointing out bits that might be missing but(! :lol: ) you seem to be missing the front exhaust mounting bracket?

Sorry for my slack response time, stupidly busy at the moment!


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Triumph Dolomite Sprint Front Exhuast Annotation 2019-08-03 100916.png
Triumph Dolomite Sprint Front Exhuast Annotation 2019-08-03 100916.png [ 212.51 KiB | Viewed 2111 times ]

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Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 11:01 am 
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Location: Winscombe, North Somerset, England
Quote:

As an aside, and I don't want to with my best adenoidal voice keep pointing out bits that might be missing but(! :lol: ) you seem to be missing the front exhaust mounting bracket?

Sorry for my slack response time, stupidly busy at the moment!
Which, I believe, you can get from club stock.

_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. :boggle2: ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 11:10 am 
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This appears to be true! The exhaust system doesn't have the side silencers either - I guess because it has an aftermarket sports system on.

I'm a bit concerned that there is almost zero movement on the engine or exhaust. Trying to wiggle the engine with the downpipe gives zero movement. Likewise grabbing and shoving the engine about only moves the car.

I have a suspicion that the exhaust down pipe is at the wrong angle and not pointing low enough. So someone left out the bell washer to cause the back end of the gearbox to drop down and giving enough clearance for the exhaust. Then left off the front exhaust mount as it didn't fit.

When I a chance next to work on the car, I'll stick a jack under the back end of the box and see how much it lifts up by. I need to get it up soon and weld that front sill + jacking point up.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 11:11 am 
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Quote:
Which, I believe, you can get from club stock.
Another thing to add to the shopping list!

*Hides list from Mrs SiC*

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 11:51 pm 
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Done a few more bits on this over the last few evenings. Got the transmission tunnel back in. This was bit of a fight to get all the holes lined up. Ended up using my feet to press hard against it to try and position it. Took most of an evening but I did it eventually.

The rubber gear gaiter is pretty destroyed at the top. I'd like to replace this as I guess it's quite useful to stop fumes getting in and stinking out the cabin.
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Listed as NLA, but wondered if there were any others that could be made to fit.

Next up was to fix the steering column. I could move it up and down but it wouldn't move in or out. Quite neat and modern that it can both move up and down as well as forward and aft. Not even my Boxster can do all that and it's 27 years newer!

Stripped it apart. Took reading of the workshop manual to realise that I needed to knock a drift pin out to get the pinch bolt off.
Image
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The issue was the bottom wire cover catching and snagging in the clamp mechanism. Cleaning it out and smoothening it off got it moving again. Spraying some GT85 allowed it to move a bit smoother. I need to get this off again really to sand down and paint this as it's pretty scruffy looking.

I also took the time to root the wiper stalk loom down the middle too. It has a repro stalk on the right and it feels it. Not quite the same nice click to it and it also hits the bottom of the cowling. There are two original stalks in the box of bits, so I'll give the clean up of the contacts on them sometime and fit one.

Putting it back together wasn't too bad. I am missing a screw on one side though.
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Moving it out makes the driving position much more comfortable. The last owner is a fair bit taller than me and so had it right back. However I'm a bit of a short arse and I like the wheel closer.

Tonight I've been looking at this front sill and seeing how scary a repair it will be.

First off was removing the chrome strip. Thankfully I only managed to break one retaining clip when doing this.
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Then removed this splash shield. Bottom bolt was partially rounded off, but a 6 sided metric 11mm socket had enough bite to get it off.
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Which revealed the damage.
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Actually not too bad in there at all!

Further poking with a screwdriver made the hole even bigger.
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Hard to see from this picture but it appears the outer section that is peeling away is actually the front wing. It also appears to be double skinned making it look worse. Inside there is a separate section that looks like it's been repaired before. Not sure exactly the purpose of this bit inside. Is it to seal the end of the sill off and provide support for the jacking point?
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Also it's clear it has been repaired here before. Unfortunately it looks like it was done but never painted or protected. Hence it's just rotted back out again.

I'll need to attack the bottom of the wing with a knotted wire wheel to remove the paint and filler. Hopefully I will be able to find some good metal to weld to. Looking up inside the wing, I'm hoping it's not going to be too far either.

Then I'll cut off the rotted metal on the wing. The resulting hole will hopefully be large enough to fix the inside, paint and then weld a new section of wing onto the bottom. Shaping that bottom bit while looking tidy is going to be the hard part and will be a true test of my welding skills. Hopefully I won't make a bird crap mess of it.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 06, 2019 11:52 pm 
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I've been told that the club does lower front wing repair panels?

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2019 7:00 am 
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https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=31388

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Please note that I am simply a Forum administrator, so please do not contact me unless your question is regarding your Forum account. For general enquiries regarding the Club and its services (membership queries, questions about spares, lapdancing etc) please see https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... hp?t=20098

Are you enjoying using our forum? If so why not support the owners club which provides it by joining The Triumph Dolomite Club? Help us to preserve these great cars for future generations.
Club membership costs just £30 for one year or £55 for two years. See https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... =4&t=37824 for details.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 12:38 am 
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Busy ol' night tonight.

Started off by cleaning off some of the paint around the rusty front wing with a knott wheel, till I found good metal. The bit at the bottom went rusty like this in literally a couple of days. Not helped by the hot humid weather and rain.
Image

So much filler on here! I eventually did find good metal and discovered that someone previously tacked on a replacement bottom half of wing.
Image

I'm guessing self fabricated given the large quantities of filler. I then cut off along the tacked on panel. Then decided the sill end section will definitely need some work, so cut even more of the wing off.
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At this point it got to my 9pm cut off where I don't like to do much more noisy work to keep the neighbours sane. So I sprayed some rustoleum brilliant blue paint on - which is entirely the wrong colour. However it will hopefully stop the bare, clean metal going rusty in hours with the rain we're getting at the moment.
Image

I then set on about replacing the gearbox mount with the Volvo one.

Supported the gearbox with the jack and then undid all the bolts. Was quite a fight to get the crossmember off, as the exhaust pipe was very much in the way. Dropping the gearbox down did help a fair bit to give enough clearance.
Image

Old mount actually didn't look too bad in my eyes. Certainly wasn't split or anything.
Image
Image

However as I already was at this point and I had a replacement mount in hand, it made sense fitting it's replacement.
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Looking at what appears to be date stamps moulded into the rubber, I think this mount is actually still in full series production.
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As the mount is a bit lower than the stock mount, I dug out a load of washers to make a spacer. These were actually originally the washers that I replaced when changing my MGB fuel tank. Nice and chunky so provided around 2.25mm per washer. I filed out the hole to fit the 12mm bolt they needed to fit through.
Image
Image

The crossmember was in reasonably decent shape. I gave a good spray of brake cleaner to remove the old oil, grease and grime.
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The new mount is slightly smaller than the stock mount around the mounting holes.
Image

Required half hours worth of filing to enlarge the slots to allow it to fit.
Image

Then put it all back together again. Found that if I put the mount in first like this:
Image

There wasn't enough room to get the gearbox mount bracket attached. So ended up sliding the whole lot in but all undone. Right faff and required a bit of patience.
Image
Image

I'm happy how this has turned out. Not least that this mount feels good quality and a fair bit cheaper than the repro jobs.

Next job will be making some templates and cutting metal to fix the sill end piece. Debating whether to get a proper panel to do the wing, or fabricate something myself. It's not a terribly difficult shape or bend to do, but I don't know how well it'll come out. Not overly keen chucking a tonne of filler on it like the last person here did. Panels aren't terribly expensive but I'm not flush with cash right now - not least after buying this.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2019 1:12 am 
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Location: Outer Hebrides
Quote:
Busy ol' night tonight.

Started off by cleaning off some of the paint around the rusty front wing with a knott wheel, till I found good metal. The bit at the bottom went rusty like this in literally a couple of days. Not helped by the hot humid weather and rain.
Image

So much filler on here! I eventually did find good metal and discovered that someone previously tacked on a replacement bottom half of wing.
Image

I'm guessing self fabricated given the large quantities of filler. I then cut off along the tacked on panel. Then decided the sill end section will definitely need some work, so cut even more of the wing off.
Image

At this point it got to my 9pm cut off where I don't like to do much more noisy work to keep the neighbours sane. So I sprayed some rustoleum brilliant blue paint on - which is entirely the wrong colour. However it will hopefully stop the bare, clean metal going rusty in hours with the rain we're getting at the moment.
Image

I then set on about replacing the gearbox mount with the Volvo one.

Supported the gearbox with the jack and then undid all the bolts. Was quite a fight to get the crossmember off, as the exhaust pipe was very much in the way. Dropping the gearbox down did help a fair bit to give enough clearance.
Image

Old mount actually didn't look too bad in my eyes. Certainly wasn't split or anything.
Image
Image

However as I already was at this point and I had a replacement mount in hand, it made sense fitting it's replacement.
Image

Looking at what appears to be date stamps moulded into the rubber, I think this mount is actually still in full series production.
Image

As the mount is a bit lower than the stock mount, I dug out a load of washers to make a spacer. These were actually originally the washers that I replaced when changing my MGB fuel tank. Nice and chunky so provided around 2.25mm per washer. I filed out the hole to fit the 12mm bolt they needed to fit through.
Image
Image

The crossmember was in reasonably decent shape. I gave a good spray of brake cleaner to remove the old oil, grease and grime.
Image

The new mount is slightly smaller than the stock mount around the mounting holes.
Image

Required half hours worth of filing to enlarge the slots to allow it to fit.
Image

Then put it all back together again. Found that if I put the mount in first like this:
Image

There wasn't enough room to get the gearbox mount bracket attached. So ended up sliding the whole lot in but all undone. Right faff and required a bit of patience.
Image
Image

I'm happy how this has turned out. Not least that this mount feels good quality and a fair bit cheaper than the repro jobs.

Next job will be making some templates and cutting metal to fix the sill end piece. Debating whether to get a proper panel to do the wing, or fabricate something myself. It's not a terribly difficult shape or bend to do, but I don't know how well it'll come out. Not overly keen chucking a tonne of filler on it like the last person here did. Panels aren't terribly expensive but I'm not flush with cash right now - not least after buying this.
Great to follow this, I'd go for the club wing panel 👍

_________________
Triumph Dolomite Sprint,RNK 957W

Built 26/6/1980 (one of the last built), Auto, Porcelain White - Genuine Mileage 52,820 (warranted).

Only 3 previous owners, (2 within the same family).

Supplied by Lavender Hill Garage Ltd, Enfield, London, by garage owner Jimmy Metcalfe on 30th September 1980 to Geoffery Robinson, Enfield.

Club Membership No: 2017092


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 11:14 pm 
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X2 for the club panel. It’s got to be better than faffing around trying to get that shape right! You know your going to end up with shares in upol if you can’t.

I too bought a sprint that needs a bit more work than expected! But don’t all old classics?
Looks like your doing a decent job to me, you’ve got the skills and the positive outlook needed, just stop poking the rusty bits!

Keep up the good work, Bish. :thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 11:39 am 
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Rain has been stopping play over the weekend on any bodywork. Really rather frustrating. :(

Yesterday I replaced the battery isolator. Seemed a simple job, but as usual it ends up being a bit more involved.

Disconnecting the terminal led to the earth wire breaking. To be fair it only had a couple of strands left connected.
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I recrimped a new piece on. I'd rather this be a ring crimp but I couldn't find one with a hole big enough.
Image

I also took the time to fit an additional and heavier duty earth connection to the body.
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That location was previously occupied by the relay that I think drove a rear fog light. Not needed now as it doesn't have one and nor did it need one at this age.

The reason why I removed the isolator is that the knob was getting rather stiff to remove. Once removing the isolator it became clear why and why I don't like this style much.
Image
Image

You can see the plastic has melted from getting very hot. This is likely because it hasn't been making good electrical conduct and leading it to act as a resistor. A resistor passing energy through it will heat up and hence melting that knob. I don't really like the design of these as their contact surface area is pretty small - especially for the amount of current they need to pass when starting. Longer term I'll use a different type of isolator.

I also started feeding the wiring in to put an electrical oil pressure gauge before the weather turned in again. I bought a NOS Smiths job a while back, so will be nice to see how the engine is running. Should remove (or add...) any fears the banging is definitely not engine internal related. As a side note, the oil pressure switch connector crimp is pretty loose. Makes me wonder if the pressure switch was even working when vibrating through running. Will be able to see clearer once I've got it off.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 12:03 pm 
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Location: Bristol
Quote:
X2 for the club panel. It’s got to be better than faffing around trying to get that shape right! You know your going to end up with shares in upol if you can’t.

I too bought a sprint that needs a bit more work than expected! But don’t all old classics?
Looks like your doing a decent job to me, you’ve got the skills and the positive outlook needed, just stop poking the rusty bits!

Keep up the good work, Bish. :thumbsup:
Finally ordered the club panel yesterday in fact. Definitely better than attempting to fabricate a panel. It's not a difficult design, but one that I haven't got the ability or tools to properly make yet. Unfortunately the last person here didn't either when welding this piece on. So there is a whole heap of filler to try making it look reasonably normal. But this means I need to either clean back all the paint and filler much further up, or I put filler to cover it back up.

Not sure I've got the skill though! Just big hammers and a good welding set! :)
If it wasn't for the good panel support for reasonable price on the Dolly, I probably would have run away.

When you started looking for your Sprint, I was looking around at the same time too. One thing I was coming to was, that if I wanted one, I'd need to learn to weld. Even ones in supposedly good condition had stuff hidden. Not helped that these cars were so cheap for so long and so tended to be treated more as disposable. Seems to be a standard classic car thing at this end of the market really. Hence why I decided to get the rotten Austin 1100 and learn to weld on that. I wish I didn't sell that one now and finished it but this car was too good a deal while still in my ability.

Thankfully there doesn't seem anything major work needed just yet. I really want to get this bit done and the brakes sorted, so I can use it for the rest of the season.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 12:35 am 
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Weather half decent tonight, so made some small progress.

Firstly I tried some paint I had mixed out to see the colour match. It is s##t. Should be good enough to do the wheel arches though.
Image

Next was chopping more metal out of this wheel arch. I eventually got to solid metal that isn't pitted.
Before
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After
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Image
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This all looks complicated, but it's not that bad. Just many bits that make up this and will require quite a lot of sections to complete it. Will be fiddly for sure.

Next step on this area is to get the card out and start making templates. Then I can get the steel cut up and shaped. Welding on should be a relatively painless exercise - providing I don't catch the car alight.

Took some time to remove underseal off the drivers floor. There are a few holes in it, but I'm pretty sure I can get away without using a panel and fabricating it out of sheet steel. Won't be perfectly accurate but this isn't visible most of the time and it's quite a simple, flat area. At the moment it's in need of doing. If I did give a good stamp in this area, I'd have a Flintstones car for sure.
Image

Also this is going to be the first time I'm welding with interior, engine and other flammable things still in the car. On the Austin 1100 I had stripped anything remotely flammable out (apart from underseal), so could weld freely without fear of setting all the things alight. My plan is to stuff some fire blankets down in the wheel arch behind the holes to catch any splatter, sparks and flames.

Finally tonight I thought I'd have a look at the drivers front caliper to see the state of the pistons. The inside pad definitely has more material on than the outside. Pulled the pads out. This was quite a fight as the retaining pins were rusty and the pads were corroded enough on the side that it needed a pair of pliers to persuade it to come out.

Dust seals on the pistons appear intact
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Reasonable amount of meat still on these pads
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However they're pretty scruffy
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Image

Retaining pins aren't much cleverer either
Image

While I was at it, I stuck my piston retract tool in and wound till it clamped the disc. This allowed me to pump the pedal and check that both pistons move.
Image

As both did and moved to a fair amount, I'm reasonably happy that they're in working order at the moment. Obviously not got a pot that seized solid. I'll do the otherside too and see how they perform. I may still need replacement calipers as the bleed nipple looks like it may give a fight. Image

I gave the edges of the pads and pins a quick sand down. Went back together really well and without an issue. Key thing is that the pads just slid in, rather than having corrosion stopping them and snagging.

I do really like these fixed calipers. So much nicer to work on than the sliding calipers that so many modern cars use.

Discs have areas of quite a lot of pitting on. I can't imagine this will be helping give a smooth brake action. This could well be a cause of the front brake fluctuation advisory on its previous MOT.

If the brakes still give trouble and before I condemn the pads, discs and calipers, I may try new pads and fitting kit at least. Mintex ones are cheap enough to be worth a punt trying to see if it resolves some of the issues for now and give a bit more of a reassuring feel. Brake fluid is in need of an urgent change too.

_________________
Current Heaps: 1968 Austin 1100, 1974 Dolomite Sprint, 1974 MGB GT, 1985 BMW E28 520i, 2000 Porsche Boxster, 2002 Clio 172 and a boring 2010 Audi A4 that keeps the wife happy!


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