The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Uh oh, you'd better get the shell over here Richard!

That's genius. Should see the 'slotted holes' I have on my engine-swapped car as a result of doing it the hard way. Best mate still hasn't let me forget about them..

Looks like a fun project!

Steve

Are you using Sprint or Stag stub axle pins.

_________________
2005 Mercedes C Class V6 Diesel Turbo Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020

Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now on hold.
Covid-19 restrictions.

Phil

The guy i bought mine from he made them , think he got the size wrong , i know he does them for the Stag was well , mine were for Dolomite and Dolomite stub axle ,ive not fitted any to the Stag setup on my Dolomite maybe in the future

Dave[ /color]

The pins are different lengths between the two.
The Stag pins are longer.
I’m not sure if the wheel bearings are the same as I Just swapped it all over.

So possibly have got the wrong size.

_________________
2005 Mercedes C Class V6 Diesel Turbo Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020

Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now on hold.
Covid-19 restrictions.

Phil

No when i did the hub bearing spacer mod on the sprint every thing was standard,even bought new wheel bearings timkin , thats why i think the hub spacers were machine wrong,at the time they didnt do the spacer kit for the dolomite , he made them for me

Dave

So the car is now with me for some bodywork, cleaning, modifications, exhaust!

The shell is great, just needs a few rust repairs, sills boot floor, front panel, wing repairs. Nothing major, then a few modifications for Richard.

On the face of it the sills looked ok, especially the passenger side, but after cutting them off the extend of the rot could be seen.







I was hoping that the front end of the sill would be ok but I'm not that lucky!!



I just used my usual process for dealing with sills, strip everything off and start at the back working out and reconstructing. The only difference is that I had to remove a section of the tread plate upper outer to do a proper repair on the inner reinforcer.













New jacking points





New reinforcer







Outer welded back on



Club sill fitted







New front sill made





Linished, rust protected and seam sealed





Front and rears repaired







Done, on to the other side.

Sorry Dave, I wasn't ignoring you, just forgot you replied!
I havent seen many but the other side of Nina had done the same on the inside of the bottom curvey bit.
Julian asked me pretty much the same question, does this help?

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 45#p329649

On to the other sill, this side was bad at the rear as well as missing the front jacking point.





This was all that was left of the rear section and jacking point!



A standard repair, including some repairs to the trailing arm mount behind plus new jacking points and lower sill section.









The seatbelt mounting reinforcers have been extended and attached to the lower inner sill.





The rear of the reinforcer has been repaired and angless section fitted to attach it to the inner sill.



Then I had to stop, unfortunately my welding torch burnt out! No suprise really, it's had some abuse! A new rather swish, much better one is arriving tomorrow!

New torch and new return lead arrived so I could finish off the club sills, sorry about the second photo I keep forgetting to take pics!





On to the inner front valence so I could get the shell up onto the rotisserie.

The outer was removed to give me access to the inner, also so I can repair the outer later on



It has the usual rust!



Using the club repair panels I cut off the ends and treated all of the surface rust



Test fitted the panels, the silver paint is weld through zinc rich primer.



And with the click of a finger they are on!







A coat of Upols finest zinc primer and some stonechip later and the club inner valence panels are fitted! This is one of those really satisfying jobs, the old panel was a bit of a state and now thanks to the hard work of Alun getting these panels made it looks new.



On to the rotisserie we go!





On its side set to 45 degrees gives me perfect access to the inner rear wheelarch!









On to the last of the rust repair jobs, next is to repair the boot floor with a club repair panel

Great stuff James.. that new toy of yours is really helping you here.

Do you use 0.6 or 0.8mm welding wire out of interest?

Kind Regards

MC

_________________
Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
Meet 1st Wednesday each month - Royal Sun. A44 Yarnton

1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU

0.8mm Matt, 0.6 just isnt worth bothering with!
Which edge is that Dave? At the top? No, I have used a bead roller to create an edge, lap jointed it to the top then ground back the welds to create an invisible seam.