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Another Nissan turbo project. http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=35575 |
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Author: | GlenM [ Mon Feb 01, 2021 9:30 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
Quote:
Nothing to do the restoration, but I could never change gas supplier using one of those utility switch websites.
The units they owe me back have varied in cost over the last 3.5 years but I have been charged in excess of 10p for each, so they owe me about £8,000-£10,000.
When I looked into it, EOn had charged me business rather than residential rates for 6.5 years. I pushed them and pushed them until I got a £1,300 refund !! Well worth looking into any anomalies !! |
Author: | Carledo [ Thu Sep 02, 2021 3:00 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
I've not done this particular convo, but doing mine, i've found that old engineer's maxim of "if it LOOKS right, it IS right!" is your friend. A lot depends on the design of the front (gearbox end) prop joint. When building the Carledo, I utilised the rotoflex style joint as used on the Carlton. I'd already fitted and leveled up the engine (like you it had a factory list to the left, in my case 7 degrees) and fore and aft it looked about level and I'd taken pains to get the extended centre line of the output shaft (the Vaux gearbox is beautifully short) dead centre in the tunnel. But when I took the stock prop to be adapted to the rubber coupling, the guy at Proptech told me it should have no more than 1 degree of runout between crank line and the angle of the front prop. Or it would destroy the coupling in short order. Since the engine/gearbox was already settled in the ONLY place it really fitted and I only had limited adjustment available by shimming the centre prop bearing, I took a chance and fitted the prop where I'd designed it. 10 years and a thousand storming starts and linelock burnouts later, the same (2nd hand) rubber joint is still there and shows no signs of damage or imminent failure. So I either have a good eye or am extremely lucky. Since i've never won the lottery, i'm tentatively eliminating luck! On the other hand, if you have a universal joint at the front of the prop (which I believe is your case) it's the other way round. With a UJ, the LAST thing you want is for the crank/gearbox mainshaft line to exactly match the line of the prop front section. It not only leads to accelerated wear on the UJ, it can also introduce a lot of nasty harmonics and vibrations into the driveline. This is why the Sprint carries it's centre bearing cockeyed with one nut tag above the fixing bracket and one below. One or two people I know have "corrected" this "mistake made by a previous owner/mechanic" then come to me to sort their driveline vibe! For a UJ, you should be looking for a minimum of 1.5 degree variation and practical max of up to 5 degrees, 3 is about optimal. Or are you using a single piece prop? If so, put it wherever you like! Just avoid that straight line in the normal running position! Steve |
Author: | tony g [ Sat Sep 04, 2021 7:55 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
Nice write up Whats with the TX 1 gearbox? Are they from a nissan engine in a taxi then? What are the benefits of this box over a 200sx box ? Tony |
Author: | RichardHyde [ Sat Sep 04, 2021 5:47 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
The TX1 is much shorter than the standard 180SX gearbox. Just need to swap bellhousings over. |
Author: | SprintV8 [ Sat Sep 04, 2021 9:04 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
TX1 gear ratios. I=3.592 (14.73) II=2.246 (9.21) III=1.415 (5. IV=1 (4.1) V=0.82 (3.36) SR20DE 6-speed manual 5-speed manual 1st gear ratio 3.626 3.321 2nd gear ratio 2.200 1.902 3rd gear ratio 1.541 1.308 4th gear ratio 1.213 1.000 5th gear ratio 1.000 0.838 6th gear ratio 0.767 - final drive (diff) 3.692 4.083 Thought the gear ratios would be a mile apart but they aren’t that bad. |
Author: | GlenM [ Sun Sep 05, 2021 6:34 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
Quote:
I've not done this particular convo, but doing mine, i've found that old engineer's maxim of "if it LOOKS right, it IS right!" is your friend.
Steve,A lot depends on the design of the front (gearbox end) prop joint. When building the Carledo, I utilised the rotoflex style joint as used on the Carlton. I'd already fitted and leveled up the engine (like you it had a factory list to the left, in my case 7 degrees) and fore and aft it looked about level and I'd taken pains to get the extended centre line of the output shaft (the Vaux gearbox is beautifully short) dead centre in the tunnel. But when I took the stock prop to be adapted to the rubber coupling, the guy at Proptech told me it should have no more than 1 degree of runout between crank line and the angle of the front prop. Or it would destroy the coupling in short order. Since the engine/gearbox was already settled in the ONLY place it really fitted and I only had limited adjustment available by shimming the centre prop bearing, I took a chance and fitted the prop where I'd designed it. 10 years and a thousand storming starts and linelock burnouts later, the same (2nd hand) rubber joint is still there and shows no signs of damage or imminent failure. So I either have a good eye or am extremely lucky. Since i've never won the lottery, i'm tentatively eliminating luck! On the other hand, if you have a universal joint at the front of the prop (which I believe is your case) it's the other way round. With a UJ, the LAST thing you want is for the crank/gearbox mainshaft line to exactly match the line of the prop front section. It not only leads to accelerated wear on the UJ, it can also introduce a lot of nasty harmonics and vibrations into the driveline. This is why the Sprint carries it's centre bearing cockeyed with one nut tag above the fixing bracket and one below. One or two people I know have "corrected" this "mistake made by a previous owner/mechanic" then come to me to sort their driveline vibe! For a UJ, you should be looking for a minimum of 1.5 degree variation and practical max of up to 5 degrees, 3 is about optimal. Or are you using a single piece prop? If so, put it wherever you like! Just avoid that straight line in the normal running position! Steve Sorry abut the late reply, I have been away for a few days. Yes, I like that maxim. I first heard it only a few years ago (which is surprising, as I am getting on a bit now) but it does hold true with so many things, even aesthetics. That's very interesting about the prop-shaft ideally not being directly in line with the gearbox. If you hadn't mentioned this, I would have been trying my very best to get it directly in line. I am using the TX1 prop-shaft, shortened by about 6", with a modified Sprint diff flange. It is a one-piece prop-shaft and it has a U/J at the front, with a splined sliding joint on the gearbox. So I will aim for about 3 degrees off the gearbox line, with the car sat on the ground. I am hoping that with engine level in the car this will be achieved vertically but we will see. |
Author: | GlenM [ Sun Sep 05, 2021 6:47 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
Quote:
Nice write up Whats with the TX 1 gearbox? Are they from a nissan engine in a taxi then? What are the benefits of this box over a 200sx box ?
Thanks. I will try and keep the updates coming but progress is a bit sporadic due to work/family/property improvements interrupting things.Tony The TX1 is a London Taxi with the 2.7 Nissan TD engine. As Richard has explained there are long and short tail versions of the 5W70C gearbox. The short tail ones are quite rare and are tricky to get hold of. Parts are a bit difficult too. My gearbox came without a speedo drive, so I ordered what I though was the correct one from the US but it was wrong, so I eventually sourced the correct one from Australia! I have since picked up a spare gearbox for a bargain price and, of course, that came with the speedo drive! The spare 'box also had a crossmember which looks to be better than the skyline one I was planning on using. |
Author: | GlenM [ Sun Sep 05, 2021 7:07 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
Quote:
TX1 gear ratios.
Phil, I=3.592 (14.73) II=2.246 (9.21) III=1.415 (5. IV=1 (4.1) V=0.82 (3.36) SR20DE 6-speed manual 5-speed manual 1st gear ratio 3.626 3.321 2nd gear ratio 2.200 1.902 3rd gear ratio 1.541 1.308 4th gear ratio 1.213 1.000 5th gear ratio 1.000 0.838 6th gear ratio 0.767 - final drive (diff) 3.692 4.083 Thought the gear ratios would be a mile apart but they aren’t that bad. I was looking at them a few weeks ago and they didn't seem too bad. The SR20 is the later 2 litre engine. These are the standard S13 5W70C ratios. 1st: 3.321 2nd: 1.902 3rd: 1.308 4th: 1.000 5th: .838 Reverse: 3.382 Final Drive: 4.363 (outside of Europe!) Final Drive: 3.916 (European) So first and second are a bit lower geared in the TX1 'box but there's not a massive difference on the higher gears. The Sprint diff is higher geared than the S13 European final drive though. So maybe slightly wider ratios than ideal for a standard engine but I do have a hybrid T25 turbo to go on, which should spool up better at lower revs than the standard T25. |
Author: | Carledo [ Sun Sep 05, 2021 9:32 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
I wouldn't worry about the taller Sprint diff! Some of it will be absorbed by a lower rolling tyre radius from using 13" or even 14" wheels and the rest is cared for by the amount of weight you are effectively shedding in the transplant! A Dolomite is just over 1 tonne kerb weight and an S13 is around 1.5-1.7 tonnes. The resultant improvement in power-to-weight ratio is more than enough to pull the taller diff! I can't give exact gear ratios for the AR25 autobox i've used in the Dolomega, Haynes doesn't list them and I don't have a factory manual for the Omega. But I DO know the stock diff for the auto was also 3.9, with 205/60 shod 15" rims and the 4th gear in the trans is heavily overdriven. Using the Sprint 3.45 diff with 185/60/14s and measured by my (very accurate) electronic speedo, i'm getting almost exactly 60mph @2000 rpm in top gear. Floor it at this speed, just short of kickdown (it'll drop to 2nd if you kick it!) and it still pulls hard, so no problems there and it also augers well for fuel economy on a run! I only have about 147bhp (NA) to play with, you should have no trouble at all! Steve |
Author: | GlenM [ Sun Sep 05, 2021 11:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Another Nissan turbo project. |
Quote:
I wouldn't worry about the taller Sprint diff! Some of it will be absorbed by a lower rolling tyre radius from using 13" or even 14" wheels and the rest is cared for by the amount of weight you are effectively shedding in the transplant! A Dolomite is just over 1 tonne kerb weight and an S13 is around 1.5-1.7 tonnes. The resultant improvement in power-to-weight ratio is more than enough to pull the taller diff!
Steve, I can't give exact gear ratios for the AR25 autobox i've used in the Dolomega, Haynes doesn't list them and I don't have a factory manual for the Omega. But I DO know the stock diff for the auto was also 3.9, with 205/60 shod 15" rims and the 4th gear in the trans is heavily overdriven. Using the Sprint 3.45 diff with 185/60/14s and measured by my (very accurate) electronic speedo, i'm getting almost exactly 60mph @2000 rpm in top gear. Floor it at this speed, just short of kickdown (it'll drop to 2nd if you kick it!) and it still pulls hard, so no problems there and it also augers well for fuel economy on a run! I only have about 147bhp (NA) to play with, you should have no trouble at all! Steve I am probably going to use 225/45 x 13 tyres, so I guess that will probably be a smaller rolling radius than the standard 14" S13 wheels and tyres. I hadn't looked up the S13 kerb weight, I expected it to be a few hundred Kg more than a Dolomite but 500-700 Kgs is a hell of a lot. Glad to here that your autobox is now working well after the oil change. 30mph/1000RPM is certainly nicely geared for Motorway driving. I didn't get much time on the car today but I did spend an hour, or so, checking the front to back level of the engine. Amazingly, on the lift the cills were perfectly level but the engine was very definitely down at the rear. I managed to get the rear end of the gearbox up an inch and I think I can squeak another 3/4" before the prop deflector disc and U/J are in danger of hitting the reinforcing member at the top of the transmission tunnel, just behind the gearbox area. To do this, I will have to remove the flange that supports the rear of the gearbox cover and re-fabricate it later. |
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