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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:52 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

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Location: Highley, Shropshire
Fitchetts do pattern mounts for the ARB to subframe mount in galv. About £18 each IIRC. Don't use poly on the ARB, you'll just bust the mounts.

For a Toledo, use poly on :- Rack mounts, inner track control arm bushes (if not converted to dolomite arms with rose joints) rear of rear upper tie bars and front of front tie bars, lower column mount bush in bulkhead. That's all you need, but if the subframe mount bushes are really bad, you can do those too without much penalty in comfort.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 11:33 am 
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Location: Oxfordshire
Quote:
Fitchetts do pattern mounts for the ARB to subframe mount in galv. About £18 each IIRC. Don't use poly on the ARB, you'll just bust the mounts.

For a Toledo, use poly on :- Rack mounts, inner track control arm bushes (if not converted to dolomite arms with rose joints) rear of rear upper tie bars and front of front tie bars, lower column mount bush in bulkhead. That's all you need, but if the subframe mount bushes are really bad, you can do those too without much penalty in comfort.

Steve
Cheers Steve thats helpful. will do those as I go! was thinking it might be a bit rattly with ALL of the bushes poly'd...

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2021 9:28 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:31 pm
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Location: Oxfordshire
Quick update -

A nice bloke called James who owns a few old british cars, one being a mint example of a metro, gave me a halogen headlight to replace the one sealed beam on the passenger side so now I should have matching lights.

I have sourced everything to fit the anti-roll bar and it's currently getting sandblasted and powder coated, thought I might as well make it look nice if I'm putting it on as it hopefully will be a fit-and-forget after that. At some point I may do the same for the subframe and rear arms etc but would prefer to keep the car driving at least for now. Me and the Mrs are saving up for a house so need to keep the car relatively mobile for now in case we manage to find one with a garage/carport.

Have also purchased a steering bush rebuild kit with the rubber washers etc so will give that a go soon, maybe at the same time as putting the rack mounts in? I'm not sure how involved a job doing the rack mounts are if i'm honest, don't think i need to unbolt the subframe do i?

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2021 9:35 am 
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Location: Filey, North Yorkshire
Making good progress!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2021 3:46 pm 
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TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 4:32 pm
Posts: 470
Hi Jack. Sounds like it is coming along nicely! A good idea doing bits at a time and keeping it mobile, one thing can lead to another sometimes and before you know it the car is not mobile. Keep it ticking along until the 'big day'!

As for the mounts - if it is the same as my 1500, then access is ok for the o/s mount, but the n/s is a bit more difficult to access due to the sump being in the way. You may be able to raise the engine up a bit to get the bracket out or as you say drop the subframe a little with the engine supported - I've got a support beam if ever you need to use it.
I found that even with the o/s mount replaced with a poly, that tightened the rack up to stop it sliding around. I then replaced the n/s when I had the engine out to sort my gearbox.

Best wishes

MC

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Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
TDC/TSSC group meeting - 3rd Tuesday of the month
The Duke at Clifton - OX15 0PE

1980 1500HL - OPD
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2021 11:18 pm 
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Location: Oxfordshire
Cheers guys. Thanks matt for the advice on steering rack mounts - had a quick look under the car today and looks like I should at least be able to do one with ease.

Bit of an update as i've got lots done today!


Firstly, a complete success I'd say, the car now has an anti-roll bar fitted! I bought a fairly rusty looking one off ebay, sourced the sleeves, bought new hardware and then got the brackets and bar itself sand blasted and powder coated.

Image

I did reuse the rubber bushes that came with the ARB so will need to change those at some point as they're a bit perished, but that should be easy enough when the time comes for it. will probably buy some new end links as they are a bit old too, but if i'm honest i'm not in any rush. Here is a closer up pic:

Image

Next up, changed the headlight over from the sealed beam unit to halogen. Both sides are a bit dim, so I might get some better bulbs to stick in now I have the option of actually replacing them. I didn't really pull the headlight unit off but suspect there is going to be some rust underneath, may be a job to get on with before it's too late:


Image

Finally, I did have a go at fitting the pre-engaged M35J in place of the previous inertia starter, and on first attempt I left out these spacers:

Image

This didn't work that well, and although it started the car I could immediately hear metal-on-metal action so took the starter off and threw the spacers in.

The car now starts every time, and no more metal on metal noise. There are a couple of issues still however:

- The starter relay is still present, I plan to bypass this and take it off
- When cranking, there is a loud noise, almost sounds like its squeaking. This could either be partly the issue above with dodgy contacts to the relay, or it could just be differences in the flywheel ring gear. I'm not sure if it's dangerous, but if it goes wrong I always have the option of returning to the inertia starter. I have a new ring gear to go on so although it sounds reckless I don't care too much if either component (starter motor or ring gear) gets damaged.

Next up on the list I may start tackling some of the rear bushes, though not with any urgency. I still need to do the steering coupling rebuild and the rack mounts. Other things I might keep an eye out for are a laminated front windscreen and possibly an electric fan to replace the viscous coupled one, though the car doesn't overheat as it stands, just want to tidy up the bay (and free a few ponies from the drag of the fan!)

Image

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2021 11:11 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:31 pm
Posts: 152
Location: Oxfordshire
With light of the E10 fuel coming into the UK now I have decided I am going to attempt to convert the Toledo to fuel injection. As much as I love SU carbs I fancy a bit of a project, I'm not sure anyone has done it before to a Toledo though I may be wrong! I want to keep the little 1300 engine because it's perfect for the car in my eyes, I don't want to go fast.

I haven't done this to a car before, but as my day job I'm a software engineer who works with instrument control systems to remotely interact with temperature controllers, timing systems etc. Really this is not all that much different to those, and I fancy a bit of a challenge! The main difficulties are probably going to be, but not limited to:
- Trigger wheel addition (I could also use the dizzy's rotor arm but this is probably susceptible to noise and backlash)
- Intake manifold, fuel rail and hoses, injectors - not sure how the heat from the exhaust manifold will affect running, probably need to toy around with this.
- Oxygen sensor bungs in the exhaust downpipe
- Fuel pump and relay installation - probably going to use a return-style system because they are less hassle

More details to follow, I am still in the planning stage of deciding if I'm going to run batch injection, sequential etc. and use coil-on-plugs or a single coil in wasted spark. I'm going to use a Speeduino as I'm fairly familiar with Arduinos and they seem to be the best value nowadays vs megasquirt, emerald, link etc. It also has the added benefit of the firmware being written in C++ which is probably my main programming language.

My plan is to try and keep the car somewhat original in doing this, with the aim that most things are reversible and can be bolted off if absolutely needed. I know some people will disagree and ask what the purpose of this is if not for performance but I just fancy being able to run flex fuel for when they inevitably up the ethanol content again :D

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2021 11:35 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:53 pm
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
Sounds an interesting set up,i bolted a trigger wheel to the back of my Sprint pulley,you could use the ford ediss set up for ignition

Dave


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2021 11:45 pm 
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Location: Oxfordshire
Quote:
Sounds an interesting set up,i bolted a trigger wheel to the back of my Sprint pulley,you could use the ford ediss set up for ignition

Dave
Nice one Dave. I may resort to the EDIS wasted spark setup, tempted to try and have a go at coil-on-plug if possible as the speeduino supports it and it simplifies everything a bit having an individual coil on each plug. Might use some Toyota Yaris coils as they seem to be pretty easy to find and are pretty reliable in my experience!

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 12:10 am 
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
Quote:
Quote:
Sounds an interesting set up,i bolted a trigger wheel to the back of my Sprint pulley,you could use the ford ediss set up for ignition

Dave
Nice one Dave. I may resort to the EDIS wasted spark setup, tempted to try and have a go at coil-on-plug if possible as the speeduino supports it and it simplifies everything a bit having an individual coil on each plug. Might use some Toyota Yaris coils as they seem to be pretty easy to find and are pretty reliable in my experience!
Have a look at Extra EFI they sell coil on coils,while watching Binky Project they used Toyota Yaris coils,so i tried one for my Sprint but they were to big to fit down the spark plug holes,so more by luck i tried audi TT mk1 coils and with a small trim of the rubber seal they fitted well,another reason to use them they have built in igniters,makes wiring it all together a bit easier
Ive made my own inlet manifold and got the fuel rail now fitted


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 8:56 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:31 pm
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Location: Oxfordshire
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Sounds an interesting set up,i bolted a trigger wheel to the back of my Sprint pulley,you could use the ford ediss set up for ignition

Dave
Nice one Dave. I may resort to the EDIS wasted spark setup, tempted to try and have a go at coil-on-plug if possible as the speeduino supports it and it simplifies everything a bit having an individual coil on each plug. Might use some Toyota Yaris coils as they seem to be pretty easy to find and are pretty reliable in my experience!
Have a look at Extra EFI they sell coil on coils,while watching Binky Project they used Toyota Yaris coils,so i tried one for my Sprint but they were to big to fit down the spark plug holes,so more by luck i tried audi TT mk1 coils and with a small trim of the rubber seal they fitted well,another reason to use them they have built in igniters,makes wiring it all together a bit easier
Ive made my own inlet manifold and got the fuel rail now fitted
Cheers very helpful, will have a look on there! that's a shout, makes things easier doesn't it.
Not really sure how to go about making the fuel rail for mine, have seen it done before on a 1500 spitfire so may try and copy that design, need to pick out injectors first! is yours all running now? Was the trigger wheel easy to do or did you have to machine the crank?

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2021 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:53 pm
Posts: 1699
Location: Harrow Middlesex
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:


Nice one Dave. I may resort to the EDIS wasted spark setup, tempted to try and have a go at coil-on-plug if possible as the speeduino supports it and it simplifies everything a bit having an individual coil on each plug. Might use some Toyota Yaris coils as they seem to be pretty easy to find and are pretty reliable in my experience!
Have a look at Extra EFI they sell coil on coils,while watching Binky Project they used Toyota Yaris coils,so i tried one for my Sprint but they were to big to fit down the spark plug holes,so more by luck i tried audi TT mk1 coils and with a small trim of the rubber seal they fitted well,another reason to use them they have built in igniters,makes wiring it all together a bit easier
Ive made my own inlet manifold and got the fuel rail now fitted
Cheers very helpful, will have a look on there! that's a shout, makes things easier doesn't it.
Not really sure how to go about making the fuel rail for mine, have seen it done before on a 1500 spitfire so may try and copy that design, need to pick out injectors first! is yours all running now? Was the trigger wheel easy to do or did you have to machine the crank?
Hi mine is still work in progress,got to build the plenum,buy the ECU and finish wiring injectors,have a look at Trigger wheel com,they sell fuel rails,
I didnt machine my front pulley,i had the trigger wheel machined so it fitted over the crankshaft pulley,from the back and bolted it to the pulley,the crankshaft sensor bolted on the engine block where the timing bracket was,i used the Dolomite fuel tank drilled a hole in it fitted a pipe in the hole and then fitted my fuel pump in the pipe so it acted like a swell pot

Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2021 10:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2019 10:31 pm
Posts: 152
Location: Oxfordshire
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:


Have a look at Extra EFI they sell coil on coils,while watching Binky Project they used Toyota Yaris coils,so i tried one for my Sprint but they were to big to fit down the spark plug holes,so more by luck i tried audi TT mk1 coils and with a small trim of the rubber seal they fitted well,another reason to use them they have built in igniters,makes wiring it all together a bit easier
Ive made my own inlet manifold and got the fuel rail now fitted
Cheers very helpful, will have a look on there! that's a shout, makes things easier doesn't it.
Not really sure how to go about making the fuel rail for mine, have seen it done before on a 1500 spitfire so may try and copy that design, need to pick out injectors first! is yours all running now? Was the trigger wheel easy to do or did you have to machine the crank?
Hi mine is still work in progress,got to build the plenum,buy the ECU and finish wiring injectors,have a look at Trigger wheel com,they sell fuel rails,
I didnt machine my front pulley,i had the trigger wheel machined so it fitted over the crankshaft pulley,from the back and bolted it to the pulley,the crankshaft sensor bolted on the engine block where the timing bracket was,i used the Dolomite fuel tank drilled a hole in it fitted a pipe in the hole and then fitted my fuel pump in the pipe so it acted like a swell pot

Dave
Cheers for all the help, will have a look on that website for a fuel rail, I might be able to get access to a CNC machine so will get a trigger wheel made up (probs 60-2) and bracket to fit the sensor (not sure what type to use yet maybe a VR or hall effect). The brains of the project arrived today, just need to assemble it now!

Image

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2021 12:18 am 
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Posts: 152
Location: Oxfordshire
on a non-fuel injection note today I managed to (nearly) sort the steering issues out. The car pulls to the left slightly, but I think it needs a wheel alignment as I seem to have quite a lot of toe out.

first up was the steering coupling, this was a pig of a job and nearly all the bolts were seized. In the end I managed to get the stubborn ones out with a combination of WD40 + heat + an impact screwdriver + a massive sledgehammer to hit it with.
Here is a before shot, as you can see the rubbers were shot, more importantly though the entire unit had seized together, providing no dampening whatsoever.


Image

And here it is after I attacked it with a wire brush and replaced the bushings and washers:

Image

No play from this unit now, though there wasn't beforehand anyway.

Then went on to replace the rack mount bushes with superflex polyurethane items, this also managed to become a rather lengthy job. Lots of time afterwards I got them all done, and again the rack didn't really seem to have much play in it afterwards. The bushes here were in good nick anyway, although I think they were made out of rubber so still worth replacing to stiffen things up.

I then chucked this mountney steering wheel on the car and took it for a drive!

Image

Here you can see the difference between the factory wheel (16" i believe?) and the 14 inch mountney i put on.

Image


First thoughts on driving the car after this - I had to take the steering wheel off and re-fit it a few times as the position was wildly off when actually driving along. This could be because of the alignment issues I mentioned earlier, would like to get a wheel alignment done ASAP, though I may tackle the rear of the car first. Dry steering is nowhere near as bad as I thought it'd be with the smaller wheel, and when getting going the car feels a bit more nimble and like my dolomite 1300 which used to handle like it was on rails.. I nearly got hit by someone not paying attention round a corner and going into the center of the road and the dolly reacted as fast as I could!

Next up I am going to sort all of the rear bushes out as I think some of the dodgy handling characteristics are coming from the rear of the car. I think I may get the trailing arms and links sandblasted and powder coated, was quite impressed with the anti-roll bar after the same treatment. Not sure what to do for replacement springs just yet as the ones on the car are very rusty! i think dolomite ones may be the same on the rear? Should just be the front of the car that's different on a Toledo with the narrower coil springs?

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2021 10:35 pm 
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Posts: 152
Location: Oxfordshire
Have done a bit more thinking and rather than going full sequential injection and sequential ignition I've decided I am going to do a wasted spark setup with a smart coil and semi-sequential (paired) injection. This means I can completely remove the distributor and go off crank position for timing! You can buy all-in-one coil driver modules and the one I'm planning on using looks like it'll actually fit perfectly where the relay for the inertia starter motor used to bolt on.

The ECU will also be wired up to control an electronic fan, which should come on based on the coolant temperature sensor at the top of the housing. This means I can get rid of the belt-driven one which spins constantly and is probably stealing a few ponies due to the drag. Probably going to have a look round a scrappy and find a unit that'll fit up nicely along with a relay to do so. Hoping to leave the car's wiring loom pretty much untouched with this conversion and have a separate loom just for the engine.

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1973 2-door honeysuckle Triumph Toledo 1300 Thread here


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