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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 10:13 am 
Hi all,

Now that I've bought a set of semi-slick tyres, and given that these will put more strain on the stud threads, I'm wondering if I should consider upgrading my ally wheel nuts to steel?

Paranoid?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:40 pm 
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Definitely move to steel nuts, and change your studs to 7/16". :D

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:14 am 
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Agree 100%. I run 12mm studs with steel nuts, but with non standard wheels. Best to use a torque wrench to ensure they are properly tight too.

Geoff


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 3:08 am 
Thanks guys, will I need to pull the hubs apart to replace the studs?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 7:10 am 
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Yep, always use a torque wrench on wheel nuts no matter what car you drive.

The fronts are fairly easy to change. Remove wheel & brake caliper. Undo hub nut & remove disc (rotor). Remove four bolts holding hub to rotor. Tap out the studs & replace with new.

The rears are more difficult. Remove wheel. Remove the six bolts & tab washers that hold the hub in place. Withdraw hub & halfshaft assembly and a few shims from behind the backplate. You now have a choice, either you can prise the oil shield (155544) back in four positions (enough to withdraw the studs) then tap the shields back in place (you won't get them perfect), or press the hub off with a hydraulic press.

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 Post subject: Well .........
PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 8:57 am 
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Quote:
The fronts are fairly easy to change. Remove wheel & brake caliper. Undo hub nut & remove disc (rotor). Remove four bolts holding hub to rotor. Tap out the studs & replace with new.
That will sort of work but and it is a big but,
the 7/16" studs have a completely different splined section to the 3/8" studs, hence why BL went to the bother
of making completely new hubs for the late Sprints (that came with the 7/16" studs).

You can hammer the 7/16" studs into a 3/8" hub and rely on a crude interference fit, if you wish, but please bear
in mind you destroy the splines in the hub doing so.

Yes, I know Rimmers' catalogue shows a kit consisting of 7/16" studs and 3/8 hubs. I have written to them on this very point
highlighting why this is wrong. They have not replied (it was over 15 years ago so I guess a reply is unlikely now).


When a stud starts spinning in a hub you'll know all about it :roll: ,
drilling them out is no joke.



Don't say I didn't warn you.......

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 4:50 am 
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Given most of the forces are pulling the stud rather than turning, I would suggest a good smear of the appropriate Loctite compound, should be enough.

I actually broke two 12mm studs on a rear wheel on the track at Taupo (snapped in two), but have never had one spin, even when done up to 85ft lb torque.

Geoff


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