The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2020 1:06 pm 
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Hello all,
Not sure if this should go in the motorsport bit or not?
I’ve got a track day planned in early Sept with the plan of using my Dolly. I’m just finishing off repainting the rear arches before which I completed a tracker Jack brake conversion. Also had to change both rear oil seals as they were leaking and the rear shoes as a consequence. I fitted the better gearbox seals in the place of the normal ones.
I took the car off the road in November last year with the plan of completing the conversion and being road ready by the end of the year! 😆
So I haven’t done any miles this year yet.
I'm thinking about what I need to do to help me get the best experience from the track day and get the Dolly as ready as possible. I’m not after setting new lap records just having fun and getting the best from the day.
Can you guys think of the best prep? Things to think about?
I’m thinking get it back on the road and get as many miles under it’s wheels as possible to shake down any issues. She ran well before her lay up so I hope I won’t have too many issues engine wise.
Give it a good service and look over with a fine tooth comb?
I have AVO coilovers and poly bushes fitted.

Any thoughts/info would be great.

Alex


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2020 7:05 pm 
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You seem to have done the necessary!

TJ brakes and some poly plus adjustable shox is pretty much all you NEED to go out and enjoy yourself, but it helps a LOT if the car is reliable, coming home on an AA wagon certainly puts a downer on your day!

So yes, drive it whenever possible and give it a bit of stick too (within what is legal and sensible) It's not fair to a car that has always been babied to suddenly be exposed to a good thrashing! I know from experience, just how rapidly the red mist can descend on a track!

Another observation, at all the trackdays I have been to (mostly the TR register organised ones) the cars that ALWAYS seem to be driven at 110% are the Dolomites, they just LOVE to be driven hard.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2020 8:46 pm 
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Ive not done a track day myself but would like to ,one thing to check have you baffled the sump or on the day over fill the oil

Dave


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2020 8:27 pm 
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Thanks for the replies. I like your thinking Steve! Give the old girl a good thrashing! :D

Just to check did you get my recent PM?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 17, 2020 8:29 pm 
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Dave, do you think it's necessary to have a baffled sump? Just worry that over filling the sump might lead to more problems than it solves?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 3:17 am 
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Quote:
Dave, do you think it's necessary to have a baffled sump? Just worry that over filling the sump might lead to more problems than it solves?
I think you're right Alex, at the level you will be running all should be well without baffles. I wouldn't overfill either, that could open a whole new can of worms, just make sure that it's full and check before every session on track to make sure it's stayed that way!

Steve

PS yes I did get the PM, i'll message you back tomorrow (or rather later today)

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 5:30 am 
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The one thing that I would add is oil quality.
Using normal "classic" type oils in a 1500 cost me a crank at Goodwood. When they get very hot (as happens on a trackday) they seem to fall off a cliff and provide little protection. I found using Millers css 20-60 made a massive improvement in the situation, but not sure what people would recommend for a slant engine.

Apart from that, tyres that are not ancient and decent quality help, if the day is wet it can be "exciting" and some tyres excel while most don't. And read the regs/instructions for the day. At the moment I think there is no food/drinks available at most venues? so go prepared. Likewise something to keep all the stuff dry you take out the car when you arrive. I used a kiddy tent, or a small tarp.
I also suspect that track days won't feel quite as friendly as usual with social distancing in place, which is a shame. But understandable.

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Clive Senior
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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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 Post subject: Oh.....
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 9:31 am 
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Quote:
The one thing that I would add is oil quality.
Using normal "classic" type oils in a 1500 cost me a crank at Goodwood.
Were you using an oil cooler Clive?



I don't know if this is relevant to the four cylinder ohv engine,
but the six can get very hot causing the oil to breakdown (boil).
In the T2000 Register, Chris Witor has written quite a bit on this subject.
He found Mobil One oil worked without the need for a cooler.


Ian

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 Post subject: Re: Oh.....
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 11:50 am 
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Quote:
Quote:
The one thing that I would add is oil quality.
Using normal "classic" type oils in a 1500 cost me a crank at Goodwood.
Were you using an oil cooler Clive?



I don't know if this is relevant to the four cylinder ohv engine,
but the six can get very hot causing the oil to breakdown (boil).
In the T2000 Register, Chris Witor has written quite a bit on this subject.
He found Mobil One oil worked without the need for a cooler.

I have mobil 1 5-40 oil in my (zetec) spitfire. A few trackdays, been around scotland and a chunk of Europe twice since last changed. Still a nice light brown colour, not as clear as when new but still no sign of black. Dread to think what a std oil would be like.
I also happily use shell Helix oils.


Ian
No cooler fitted at that point, one was after.
But as you point out, a quality synthetic oil will cope with trackdays and so on, normal mineral or suchlike does not.

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Clive Senior
Brighton
Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2020 11:52 pm 
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Back to the original question. I remember vividly my first trackday in a Sprint, as the brake fluid boiled and I lost the brakes completely! I assume when you upgraded the front brakes you flushed all the fluid, even to the back. If not do it. If you go onto using on the track a lot, consider a higher boiling fluid – I used Motul 660.

Raise the tyre pressures 2-4psi to reduce tyre roll on corners. Double check front wheel bearings as they can take a hammering. I always tried to get as tight as possible but of course still running free. Other thing I remember from ‘racing’ a road car was trying to stay in the seat when cornering, especially turning right as the standard seat offers little help and you can tend to end up almost in the passenger seat. Fine if you have static belts, but otherwise a trick is to get the retractable ones to lock – push yourself back hard into the seat, pull the belt tight feeding the strap back over your shoulder, then pull it sharply. It should lock and then as you relax in the seat it stays locked.

I use Penrite HPR30 (20W-60) very high zinc mineral oil in both my road cars and it maintains good pressure. However, in my dedicated race car Motul 300V 15W-50 ester based fully synthetic cannot be beaten. Expensive and I only used it in a fresh, clean engine, but it maintained good oil pressure at high operating temperature better than any of the other brands that I ever tried. I think it would be overkill for a track day car, but if you want the best….

Hope this helps, have fun
Geoff


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2020 9:45 am 
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Hi Geoff,

Cheers for the info. It must be great minds think alike - I've changed the brake fluid for Motul RBF 600 including the rear.
Even when I used the original brake set up I used the same brake fluid as I wanted give the system the best chance of stopping me!
I use Fuchs Titan Race 20-60w fully ester oil which I've found very good. As you say it's expensive but I think it gives the best protection.

Good thinking on the seats and seat belt. I'd like to change the seats for something better but I don't think I'll get the opportunity.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 8:30 pm 
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What track have you booked ?

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1980 Vermillion Sprint - 174bhp


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 8:14 am 
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I've booked for Abingdon. I'd not heard about until recently so I don't know what it's like, a friend who's been before was pretty keen on it.

https://www.motorsport-events.com/produ ... -track-day.

There's still spaces! I'd imagine they'd be pretty surprised to see two Sprints there!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 9:02 am 
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It's great fun. Trackerjack & I have done a few Motorsport events venues in our Sprints...a few years ago now. Should be some vids still on youtube.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 8:57 am 
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Mart, just thinking about tyres. What pressures did you run on track? Did different pressures make a lot of difference?


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