The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

This is a me too rather than an answer but my Sprint does exactly the same, lots of judder/axle tramp when pulling away when hot, very noticeable on an incline or in reverse. Need to explore more but was going to look at the prop center bearing carrier and tie bar bushes but not because they're worn but wondering if the bushes are going soft with heat.

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Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3

I was mentioning this to John Abra (our Sprint technical wizzo) yesterday.
He also experiences this with his Sprint and GT6.

He raised a very good point that could it not be the material modern clutches are made of - as opposed to asbestos originally?
I guess most of the cars have now had replacements over the years, and most of us have replaced bushes etc and the remaining cars are in good fettle.

Searching the net for this issue results in many cars of similar age with owners complaining of the same - Triumph, MG, VW campers - you name it. It is common!

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Matt Cotton

TDC Oxfordshire Area Organiser.
TDC/TSSC group meeting - 3rd Tuesday of the month


1980 1500HL - OPD
1976 Sprint - SWU

It was inbuilt into Marina's and Ital's Matt...... They always juddered hot or cold and no matter what clutch you put in them So must be a BL fault somewhere along the line?

Tony.

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NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057

I had a Stag which suffered with clutch shudder, It ended up being the slave cylinder. Just a thought if you have tried everything else.

Remember the "only when hot" symptom.
So there can be any number of causes for clutch judder, some them would be compounded by a bit of a problem here, and a bit of a problem there, but in this instance we should focus on the "when hot" issue. Solving that will lead to a cure, solving other contributory problems might mask the root cause.

So, when hot....
Heat from the engine area affecting the driven plate, the pressure plate, the release bearing, the slave cylinder the master cylinder? Heat from friction affecting the prop bearing, the ujs, the diff, wheel bearings, maybe two or more at the same time?

Is the problem only after being driven, or if you leave the car idling in your lovely weather without driving is the problem still there?

Just tuppence worth...

Considering answers like this, and others suggesting that its fairly common, I've decided to have an attitude adjustment and accept it for what it is.... A peculiarity in an old car that gets limited use.

Thanks again for all your answers. I hope that the advice you've offered helps other Dolly owners who may read this thread in the years to come.

Cheers,
Rob

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"When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it". HENRY FORD
1915 Ford "T" Speedster (Evangeline), 1921 Ford "T" Tourer (Anastasia), 1955 Zephyr 6 (Purdey), 1975 Dolomite SPRINT (Daisy), & a couple of moderns.

It could be an oil leak from the rear engine seal finding it's way onto the clutch plate.

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track action maniac.

The lunatic is out................heres Jonny!

Can I reignite this thread in the hope that someone has found a solution.

My Sprint has the same judder when pulling away (and only when pulling away from a standing start). Also only once things heat up, but now it is making the car practically undriveable for anything other than 5 or 10 miles. The judder or shake certainly feels like the gearbox is rattling around against the tunnel etc, which cannot be good for many parts of the car and certainly not good for the owners sanity!!

The only thing done so far is to change the gearbox Mount to the Volvo option recommended on the forum.
Once the car is rolling, gear changes are smooth and as they should be, with no judder, slip or shenanigans. The car is a pleasure to drive in every other respect, but is now getting to the point that it will need to be disposed of as it is no longer practical.

Fingers crossed someone has the answer.

Thanks in advance
Mike

A small update……. In Winter the judder when hot takes longer to become an issue. I have decided to replace the engine mounts and see if that sorts things.

Can I ask if anyone believes a worn engine stay bar could also be compounding a vibration issue?

I can find one thread discussing the part, but that majors on what bushes are in the part.

It also seems peculiar that only Rimmers are the suppliers of replacements.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-158986ASSY

Any observations greatly appreciated.
I will change a few parts in the next month and update here what the outcome is.
Thanks
Mike

Not useful to you, but I fixed my problem by moving to Shetland, as it only happened in warm weather with a hot car. Since this post I've also changed all the axle bushes and the centre prop, but not been "Sooth" with the car since.

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Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)

Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3

To update this thread……. but not fully
Yesterday my chum and I spent the day changing the 2 engine mounts (obtained from Chris Witor), together with the stay bar (collected from Rimmers at the spares day in Stoneleigh). Being of a certain age (65&70) most things take time, but to remove and refit those items took all day (& into the early evening!!). The old parts are believed original, so 45 years since the nuts & bolts were put on. We had a 1m lift so it was easier than using axle stands (we wouldn’t attempt it that way). All in all I can report that the work is well within the capabilities of an amateur mechanic (2 man/person job really). We were both shattered by the evening and now need to take the car out and get her really well warmed up to see if the judder on pulling away has disappeared. We decided that moving with the car to a cold climate was not an answer to our problem!!!

The Gearbox Mount was previously changed (the Volvo one suggested on this forum) as a first attempt to cure the judder.

I will update once we have giving the car a good shakedown drive.

Mike (& Phil)

I have the same issue. It only started after I replaced the clutch master cylinder, and I find if I feather the clutch after changing gear its less of an issue. I would defintly look at your clutch Hydraulics if the mounting change hasn`t cured it.
I too have fitted the Chris Witor mounts, very good, and they actually fit properly.
As for gearbox mountings, the copies of the original mounting, are a lot stiffer than the originals, due to them having no slot in the rubber, I suspect this was done to prolong the life of them, but I have often thought it may be contributing to my clutch judder issue, next time I take mine off, I am going to mill a slot in the rubber, as per the originals.

in reverse and 1st gear my clutch/ car judders as well...my 1850HL car is original througout....50k miles...first clutch, first clutch hydraulics, most suspension bushes still original and in good nick (or rather, replaced years ago when original BL parts were still available).

so the judder must be something related to the BL Design.
this said, it doesnt disturb me when using the car.