The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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 Post subject: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:15 pm 
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I looked in the ROM and it looks like its an easy job if the tank is empty. Are there any hidden issues or tricks of the trade the ROM don't mention?

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 10:44 pm 
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Straightforward job on the Toledo, the hardest bit I'd say is disconnecting the fuel line. I think it's the same on the other cars, just the tank is a big larger due to the larger boot.

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1971 Triumph Toledo 2 door
1977 Triumph Stag
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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:27 pm 
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The flexi part on the inlet can be awkward to disconnect but otherwise straight forward but be careful of the outlet union catching on the hole and the sealant / gunky stuff sometimes doesn't like parting company with the car

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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 11:18 am 
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Well it's out without too much stress or strain. There was a rot hole in the bottom of the tank that looks like it's from water getting down into the boot well from the worn out boot lid seal. I've also replaced that. Not sure it's proper fixed, but I'll see if I can't put a waterproof sheet over the tank in case it's not. I've also done the replacement tank with Smootherite and I'll do the boot floor with some and maybe some of Hammerite version of schutz.

Clearly, the tank's been out when the car was restored before, and then painted the wrong (if nicer) yellow - there's no mimosa down there, but there is some round the rear lights.

Anyway, I suspect it may have been put back with stuff missing. So I'm not sure about what to put between the tank and the boot floor - there was one 2" wide 1/4" thick 12" long bit of foam rubber to the right side of the low point and a the rubber blanking grommet from the drain hole at the rear left had got wedged between the tank and the back of the bottom well. Anybody what should be in there - presumably not foam that will only hold water longer.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2020 9:35 pm 
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Hi, When I re shelled my sprint many years ago I also found the petrol tank rusted to death.
At that time I was working on Leyland cars mainly Marina, Allegro and Maxis and odd Dolomites.
This maybe hard to believe but due to constant water leaks into the boot area we had to do factory modifications.
One was using a stuff called drip check seal that you poured around the inner wheel arch, another sealing rear lamps and the other mod was
more basic (yes) drilling holes in boot floor to let any water out.
So when I was rebuilding the sprint I drilled 3 small holes in petrol tank floor and also painted the bottom off the
new tank with Hammerite paint. The tank was out 3-4 years ago and all looked like new since 1983.
So if you having trouble stopping the leaks getting in at least it won't pool under the tank.
Never would that be accepted now day's


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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 10:14 am 
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Richard Old has done quite a bit of investigation recently into leaks into the boot area and his findings will be in Dolly Mixture in the next edition.
However, as you say, rear light lenses, trim etc are often the culprits but Richard also found the rear of the roof gutters where the two skins meet can be a problem and well worth sealing up.

It seems most Dolomites suffer from some grot in the boot area, so clearly a favourite place for water to find its way in and struggle to get out. As you say Graham, well worth plenty of waxoil or equivalent on the boot floor and under the tank to protect and not to fit anything that could hold water.


MC

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1980 1500HL - OPD
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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 10:51 am 
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about two years ago i had the same problem water getting in boot area,so took everything out and got the missis to use the hose while i was locked in the boot!....found out it was my end chrome pieces from the rear window chrome trims...mine was the sealer had dried out and caused the leak end chrome piece to body....but my fuel tank was to far gome and had to replace it...alloy tank

just a thought

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Dolomite 1300,1980`V`reg in british racing brown(russet),3.63 diff with 21t speedo pinion,95%poly`d,HL clocks,standard wheels with SE covers wrapt in 175 70 13,mot`d 19-09-2014,been off the since 1990,(july2017) stainless steel exhaust 3-piece,(xmas2018) wooden mountney steering wheel,(june2020) new monroe shock(radial front,gas-matic rears) with -1" lower`d springs all round.


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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 2:40 pm 
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It's back in, with 3 coats of Smootherite on the tank underside, 1 on the boot floor, and Black waxoil between them. There's already a drain hole under the tank and I lost the foam from under there.

As for letting the wife lock me in the boot - not never, ever gonna do that!

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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 Post subject: Re: Taking the tank out.
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2020 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 2:35 pm
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Calibrating the sender that came with the replacement tank by filling it slowly.

So far, I've got a reading of zero on the gauge (up from off) for nothing with the tank empty. The same, but with the empty warning flashing for 5 Ltrs. And a reading of just under 1/4 for another 10 Ltrs.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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