The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Next week I propose to purchase a dial gauge so that I can check the end play in my 1500cc dolomites as I suspect that in at least one of my cars the thrust washers need changing. I have read in the workshop manual that the sump can be removed and the thrust washers changed with the engine still in the car.

Has anyone on the discussion board done this task and how difficult is it to do?

I also believe that some owners used to get both the main and the conrod bearings changed at about 60,000 miles. If I attempt to sort out the crank end float is it worth changing the main and conrod bearings at the same time?

If I do go for a bearing change is there a specific make of bearing that I should attempt to purchase?

I've done it and it is really easy. Remove the sump, remove the bearing cap to get the bottom one out and then use something like a feeler gauge or small screw driver to get the top one out. I found rotating the crank help persuade it to move.

Then fitting is the reverse, make sure you have the washer the right way round and gently push the top washer round the crank. Once it is properly position refit the bottom washer and bearing cap, job done.

That is provided you have caught it early enough and you don't find the washers in the bottom of the sump.

As for the other bearings I don't suppose it would hurt to have a peak while you're in there. The only ones I could find were King bearings, which I gather aren't the best. I would put a wanted as on the forum to see if someone has something a bit better, assuming it needs doing.

Hi, I did mine as as previously said it’s not a difficult job, I found if yo get the lower shell out and straighten it from the centre in a vice, (Straighten The end with the lug) you can then use it to push the top one out,

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1977 Dolomite 1850HL
1987 Opel Manta GTE
1987 Opel Manta 1800 Berlinetta.

I think I used to do mine at 40k miles. I spent ages trying to source good bearings the first time, they were findable but seriously ouch on the wallet. Instead I used wherever moss sell and treated them as a service item.
As already said rotating the crank helps with moving the upper bearing, take the plugs out to make that easy.
If memory serves I used to drain the oil then jack it into ramps to give max room underneath, release the engine mounts and use a lifting bar to raise the engine. It only needs to go up enough to unload the mounts plus a half inch to make sump removal dead easy. That's about as much as it will go without removing hoses.

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1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.

Many thanks for the quick responses and you have encouraged me to have a go. Living in Bristol I am lucky as Moss have a branch here and looking at their web sight the total cost of bits is not too bad.

I can see that it does not look too difficult to change the main and Conrod bearings but how difficult is it to get out and fit replacement thrust bearings?

Odd, I thought I'd already replied to this
No harder than the rest. Just rotate the crank while using a new one to push the old one out.

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1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.

Re sump removal, best leave the car at least 24 hours from last engine start, ideally 48. So I have always drained the oil (when warm) and then left it.
I have tried King etc trimetal and tin/ali bearings. Neither seemed to last better than the other, but old glacier/AE are better. And if you ever find them, Vandervell are excellent.

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Clive Senior
Brighton

The instructions in the thread are for the thrust washers. Once you have the sump off it becomes obvious how to remove them and you shouldn't have any problems, provided you have caught it early enough.

You can do it in the car easily enough.
But I would not personally. You can't measure the crank properly in situ to check for ovality and clearances. You can't polish the crank to remove marks. You can't properly clean everything or blow through the oil ways. Imo, it's worth a few hours to get the engine out then you can work on it in comfort on a bench, and do a proper job.

From memory I seem to recall that its quite hard to access the rear thrust washer with engine installed, though I can't remember why, probably the rear crank seal housing in the way?

I still have stocks of standard size AE Glacier mains, big ends and thrust washers here which I could sell if you get stuck. Thrust washers are hard to find from a good manufacturer, I sometimes used a work-around using a good quality one for the rear (the one that takes all the load from the clutch thrust) and a matching lower-quality one for the front one which takes almost no load at all. The thrust washers in standard - unmodified - fit are fore and aft, not upper and lower, no washers are fitted to the main bearing cap.

Personally I'd get the engine out and do the job properly, if you have the time.

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Vindicator Sprint, Honda Fireblade RRX 919cc, re-powered by AB Performance. Quick.