The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 4:03 pm 
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I disassembled a spare Sprint dash clock, a Kienzle one, that didn't work. That was because I want to reset the hands on the working one because the little hand is on the hour when the big hand is on 6 - why do they call the other one the second hand, it's obviously the third.

I've got the spare apart, fixed the mechanism so it works, and got it back together. But I had real trouble getting the chrome ring off and on the front, and it's a bit split. It goes back together well enough to go in the hole in the dash, but the splits are visible.

So has anybody done this job successfully and got any tips about uncrimping and re-crimping that front ring?

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 6:31 pm 
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Location: Ayrshire, Scotland
Yes, over the years I have tried to open gauges and have always had trouble getting the chrome ring off without damage. I would be interested to know how it should be done.

Isn't the Dolomite clock an amazing gadget? It's a clockwork clock wound up by electricity about every three minutes. What demented genius came up with that idea? Mine loses about 5 minutes a day, but that's OK as I simply adjust it when I start the car. I love to hear it ticking.

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Mike
(MGB GTV8, BMW Z3 2.2, and Dolomite 1850HL. New: a 1971 MGB roadster in need of welding)


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:23 pm 
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I have done a couple of gauges and I'm afraid it is basically dumb luck whether you can get the chrome ring off/on with minimal damage. I've never managed it with non, it does tend to damage the chrome, through I have managed to limit the damage to bit you can't really see.

No real trick, just go slowly and don't use too much force.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:46 pm 
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I recently took all my auges apart to fit new rubber seals,i use a screw driver to gently lever the tabs up a bit then you can twist the chrome rings off, i only broke one ring, as others have said a easy

Dave


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:57 pm 
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An allround wonder of German engineering.

But I guess it's hard to do an accurate clock off a noisy, variable, DC supply with no solid state, etc. I remember a Russian export valve powered radiogram (Rigonda?) with AFC on AM back in the 60s - a servo on the back of the tuning knob that I assume was run off a signed DC error output from the IF stage. But it worked, God damn it!

The clock in the car winds every 2 mins, and the one I just fixed every 25 seconds. So I think that one needs more work on how far the solenoid throws the spring.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2020 8:04 pm 
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Quote:
I recently took all my auges apart to fit new rubber seals,i use a screw driver to gently lever the tabs up a bit then you can twist the chrome rings off, i only broke one ring, as others have said a easy

Dave
I took a tacho to bits to fix a busted input pin and put a pointer off a Herald speedo on it. That was easy - juts turn the ring so its lugs line up with the slots in the flange. But this clock's ring has no such mechanism. It looks to be crimped on with no means to remove but bend the whole ring out. At which point it cracks.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 5:17 pm 
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
Quote:
Quote:
I recently took all my auges apart to fit new rubber seals,i use a screw driver to gently lever the tabs up a bit then you can twist the chrome rings off, i only broke one ring, as others have said a easy

Dave
I took a tacho to bits to fix a busted input pin and put a pointer off a Herald speedo on it. That was easy - juts turn the ring so its lugs line up with the slots in the flange. But this clock's ring has no such mechanism. It looks to be crimped on with no means to remove but bend the whole ring out. At which point it cracks.

Graham
I know you buy new rings for all the gauges,but isnt the clock a bigger size ?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 7:56 pm 
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Quote:
I know you buy new rings for all the gauges,but isnt the clock a bigger size ?
Yes, it's about 2.5" to the outsides of the ring. Can't see any that size anywhere.

If I'd known the ring on the broken clock would split, I might have tried to cut the case away from the ring instead, and maybe be able to reuse it on the working clock.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 8:19 pm 
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
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Quote:
I know you buy new rings for all the gauges,but isnt the clock a bigger size ?
Yes, it's about 2.5" to the outsides of the ring. Can't see any that size anywhere.

If I'd known the ring on the broken clock would split, I might have tried to cut the case away from the ring instead, and maybe be able to reuse it on the working clock.

Graham
Have you tried The Gauge Shop, they may be able to help getting a new ring for the clock


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2020 9:20 pm 
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Looked on the Gauge shop website and don't see the half chrome half black clock like the Sprint's. I'll give them a ring tomorrow and ask.

I also wonder if I tighten the right size jubilee clip round the ring and lever the crimped over edge up, that might save it from splitting. I can fit the repaired one for now, after I look at the solenoid, and have a look at doing the one in the car. Maybe there's still value in finding another broken one to play with first.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2020 9:37 pm 
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Spoke with the guy at the Gauge shop, and it seems you can't get the parts anymore. So I've bought one off ebay that may work. Alternatively it may serve to practise taking apart and maybe fixing if it's the same problem, or providing parts else.
I've ordered the right size jubilee clip to see if that method of uncrimping the ring without it splitting will work.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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