The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:34 pm 
I've thought about (After seeing similar) milling a dashpot that can accept a single injector, to feed fuel to the engine in a similar manner to the carb, retaining a fairly standard appearance. It's been done with good results.

Fuelling maps off other cars isn't too hot tho, using other cars ECUs on engine not intended for them can cause trouble and most manufacturer's ECUs aren't reprogrammable by default, or only by marginal amounts.

The way forward would be to use Megasquirt and build either :

a) A plenum system, as seen on most modern cars (Hell, if it works for Ferrari, it must be good). Use a single large throttle body off a 2 litre Zetec or similar, make a brand new manifold which takes 4 injectors, one for each runner and voila!

b) Use indivudual TBs, which is possibly the best solution as each cylinder gets its own throttle and breathing space.

To do an EFI conversion using MS you'd need (bearing in mind it can be had in kit form for not much too):

- Crank trigger wheel (36-1 tooth)
- Trigger wheel sensor (antoher Ford item)
- Injectors and bungs
- Appropriate manifold
- Throttle body/ies
- High pressure fuel pump,
- High pressure supply/return lines, and rails,
- EFI fuel pressure regulator.
- Coolant (CTS) and intake air temperature sensors (IAT),
- An oxygen sensor (EGO) is highly recommended, either narrow-band or wide-band, and threaded bung,
- Wiring and various connectors for the sensors, injectors, etc.,
- Coil pack (Ford EDIS) leads, suitable plugs (important!)
- The ECU and suitable harness

If you home brewed you could probably do the whole lot for 300 quid, if you really knew where to look and were happy to get dirrrtteeey.....maybe a little less!

http://www.megasquirt.info/


Last edited by Lewis on Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:38 pm 
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Quote:
Low pressure mechanical FI Dave. (and shite)

David
Nope, the late TR7s ran Bosch L-Jetronic, IIRC.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:16 pm 
Megasquirt is definetely the way to go.

Theres no reason why you need to use edis anymore - the latest megasquirts allow direct control of ignition coils.

Actually theres no reason why you can't stick with a mechanical dizzy and just run EFI fuelling only and eliminate messing around with trigger wheels (only required if you want full spark control without a distributor).

You could do it really cheap that way as the EFI would control via the rev counter ignition pulse and you could quite easily adapt SU carbs into throttle bodies and still modify an SU manifold with individual injectors.

G


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:19 pm 
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I found some pictures too on Triumphowners.com. Looks quite tidy...

http://www.triumphowners.com/collection ... nID=111030


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:31 pm 
Quote:
mechanical dizzy and just run EFI fuelling only and eliminate messing around with trigger wheels (only required if you want full spark control without a distributor).
This is true but in my mind that's like turbocharging a car then just having it dump all the boost to atmosphere - why bother? It doesn't take that much 'more' effort to get a trigger wheel machined and mounted to the crank pulley with a sensor pointing at it and then you have fully mappable electronic ignition without the need for a set of rotating, less accurate mechanical components and you can match ignition with fuelling to great levels of precision :)

Ditch a bit of all precious weight too 8)

Bosh a 36-1 timin' wheel on the pulley, make a little 90 degree bracket, bang in a sensor, lovely.....and then some more :lol:

OT people, if you're putting a timing wheel on - get it welded on, then drill 4 holes in it and put some bolts through it too otherwise the damn thing will come flying off at you :shock:


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:32 pm 
I take it back Dave, L jet is what I was on about robbing off a cav. And all the hardware to stick it on an 1850/TR7 engine in a dolly. Still got a flappy air flow meter though so no use for anything with a wild cam, and fitting to a Sprint engine would be aggro.

David


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:37 pm 
Lewis,

You can't ditch the distributor as it's needed to drive the oil pump, but I'd still put a toothed wheel on as it's hardly any work and much more accurate. But why would it need welding and bolting? If it's welded properly, it doesn't need bolts, and if it's bolted properly it shouldn't need welding.

David


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 1:52 pm 
Quote:
You can't ditch the distributor
Sorry, I should have clarified that I knew that :oops: I meant to put you can make up a drive system by blanking it off/leaving the drive in place or gutting it :)

If you weld your crank pulley on it's possible for it to fracture the welds and effectively deseam itself, especially if it's not quite balanced or central. The bolts provide a safety net so that if the welds go, or are stressed, they will take the loading instead.

I don't suppose there's any reason why you couldn't just bolt it on but I'd prefer to have it at least tack welded too, to again offer a bit of a safety net. Dave Walker of PPC had one do a good cutting saw impression last month when the welds gave on it too....

OT, this Pagent blue Sprint of yours, do you have any details? Might have some interest for you :)


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