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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:37 pm 
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Quick question for the experts, have I marked the correct port in the photo below for the oil flow out of the transfer plate, I need to know for the oil cooler thermostat.

Thanks

Tony

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:49 pm 
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Does the oil cooler transfer adaptor have 'in' or 'out' stamped on it ? Think my old one did ...


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:53 pm 
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Nope nothing stamped on it, I am only assuming the port is the flow rather than the return as the oil pressure switch is machined into that port, but the pressure would be the same in the return aswell.

I could fill with oil & spin the pump, but I thought I'd ask, someone's bound to know.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:27 pm 
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That is the main gallery so oil into that.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:52 pm 
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What's going on where the fuel pump bolts to the block?

Note Jeroen's comments on inferior oil filtration with that setup too. I'm worried now as my SNag has one of these, but I can use a deeper filter
than the nissan micra one we use on dollies. My bits came from a scrap Sprint, which used to burn oil like a good'un. That maybe why....

Jonners

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:10 pm 
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Cheers for that Jeroen.

It is a crankcase breather outlet.

There must a lot of cars running this conversion, is there a history of problems?

This is the 1st car I have had with this set up, i don't really understand the problem, is it the size if the filter or that the adapter plate restricts the flow?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:26 pm 
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I'm intriged too. This looks like the setup on my race car that has been there for a number of years (oil is Motul 300V 15-50). Also the spin on adaptor is on the mimosa car (Castrol GTX 20-50). I remember I did need to ensure both rubber 'O' rings on the spin on adaptor were sealing well.

Filter I use here is a Ryco (NZ) Z82 which incidentally it says fits a stag, MGB and BMC 1100.

Geoff


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:43 pm 
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It is not a filtration problem. The only reason you should fit a spin on conversion is easier change but with the "floating" outer alu part this is not quite reliable because if the alu part turns when unscrewing the spin on filter it can damage the o ring in the engineblock recess.

More importand is that the tiny holes in the centre piece what screws into the block have a total passing through surface less than the middle hole where the filter goes on. That hole is also smaller than a std canister type. So the flow/amount of oil that can pass is much less than a canister type setup. At my engine the middle alu part that presses against the engineblock when tightening the centre piece was also covering a part of the hole what's in the engine. So it was double. Also the flow itself is not good. A canister type can the oil free straight into the engine. With this spin on it has to pass too small tiny holes, then the flow is bend, comes into the small chamber area between engine and middle alu piece and then into the engine where the original hole can be partly blocked as with my engine. I do want a spin on at my engine because of the high km's i drive a year but i first have to make a proper middle piece and centre where the filter screws on.

This was about a year ago when i was working on my new engine but when i have time again i will start again with it but for now no slant's with an conversion.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 11:56 pm 
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I cannot find the pictures but this is more related to the original topic.

Make the transfer plate fit. i did also drilled with a tapered drill the in and outlet connectors what are screwed in. As you can see the flow is much better because the flow now doesn't hit the edges.
My expierience is with this kind of modifications, spin on and transfer plates it is just for the sale and profit and not to benefit the owner of the product. The longer i look to this kind of parts, not just dolomite, the more i like the original. There's a lot to modify before to have the result you think you gain what's promised in the manufacturers advert. Just like the extra rocker feed for the 1300/1500 what actually destroy the lower half of the engine but hey, another set sold.

Jeroen
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:41 am 
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Hi Jeroen,

I understand what you mean now about the restricted flow, I remember seeing the holes in the centre threaded adapter, so back to the cartridge type is the way to go, I hate cleaning those out!

I will check the transfer plate I have & machine where necessary.

Thanks

Tony

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:42 am 
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Hi Jeroen

Please excuse my ignorance as I'm not an engineer, but I like to ask questions so I can understand better.

Given the oil pressure of 55-60psi at race engine speed and low friction nature of oil, is the restrction in aperture actually going to reduce the flow of oil? I'm just thinking of the garden hose and how the nozzle can make it squirt further but doesn't change the amount flowing.

I'm not sure at what point the oil pressure gauge take off is - is it before or after the filter and would the restriction cause the pressure to increase or decrease? When does the pressure relief valve work and if I assume it limits pressure by releasing more oil (?) would this make the issue of flow restriction better or worse? Should we actually measure oil pressure somewhere else in the engine to get a better picture of effectiveness of the lubrication?

I've never seen any signs of lack of lubrication in my engine and it has never been suggested when 'experts' have examined or worked in it.

Geoff


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 7:48 am 
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Pressure and flow are different things. When i take my gardenhose for example. without a nozzle. When i squeeze it has a lot of pressure in the hose but almost no water is coming out. When i let it flow freely there's a lot of water coming out but almost no pressure in the hose. High pressure doesn't say alway's that it is good. When you add stuff like stp or lucas the oil gets thicker so more pressure on the gauge because the thick oil cannot as fast as normal oil through the oilholes and is pressurized.

The oilpressure gauge/lamp take off is normally after the filter and when you have low friction or light oil that's flowing better and an engine that is in good condition so in your case it's maybe good enough. But it is a fact that the total surface en construction of the spin on is far inferiour than the std setup.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 9:43 pm 
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Had a look at the spin on conversion fitted to my car today, it doesn't block the oil feed
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I measured the area of the oil feed on the block & the total area of the holes in the centre adaptor, and there was about 15mm2 difference about 10%, so mine does restrict the flow a bit but not as much as Jeroen had calculated on his, so I think I am going to keep mine.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 11:57 am 
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It looks your centrepiece is drilled deeper than mine. I could not use the surface of the 6 holes to calculate with because on the inside they were not as high as yours. Seen from the filterside the area of the little holes was smaller than the 6x surface of the other side.

But the centre sliding piece, isnt that blocking the hole?

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:18 pm 
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I checked that aswell, the Collar depth of the centre piece is less than the depth of the ali adaptor recess so oil can flow over the entire top surface of the centre piece so the full area of the holes can be used. As you say mine is drilled very deep so the area of the holes on the filter side matches the holes in the top.
Maybe there are different kits around, wouldn't surprise me if the newer kits have copied an earlier one, but a few corners cut to make it cheaper to make without thinking through the consequences.

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