The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 3:03 am 
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Hello good people.

I am thinking of fitting the trackerjack front brake conversion. As the front brakes would then out perform the rears, could the lsv be removed completely? Could I then, just make an extra brake pipe up to join the rear flexi hose to the front to back hard line?

I have a seal kit from the club to refurb the lsv but won’t bother if I don’t need it. The refurb of the lsv shouldn’t be too difficult, but setting the thing back up looks like a right faff. I can’t see me being able to get under the car (too many mince pies) when it’s standing on its wheels!

Cheers, Bish.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 7:16 am 
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If you do remove the lsv you can use a rear flexy from an 1850, which fits straight on.

Tony

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:50 am 
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I would definitely remove the LSV. Unfortunately I can't remember how I did mine. I know I used a straight union but I can't remember if I connected the flexi straight to the union or not. Maybe Nigel (storeyn) can have a look?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 9:53 am 
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Would the item Steve (carledo) made up recently for 1850's do the job?

Tony.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 10:57 am 
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I wouldn't personally. At an emergency stop the car dives immediately and moves dynamically all the weight to the front of the car. With the TJ setup that will be even more causing less grip on the rear and more chance for lock up. Even more in the wet.

You should try once on some deserted parking place in the wet pulling the handbrake and see what happens. Not with a Dolomite ofcourse because those don't have proper handbrakes. And yes, I wouldn't try it with some front handbrake cars also.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:15 pm 
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You should try once on some deserted parking place in the wet pulling the handbrake and see what happens. Not with a Dolomite ofcourse because those don't have proper handbrakes. And yes, I wouldn't try it with some front handbrake cars also.

Jeroen
[/quote]

My Dolly will happily lock the rear wheels :D After i undid the po's method of adjustment, but wont lock under heavy braking.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:27 pm 
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Jeroen makes a good point. Locking up the rears is the last thing you want to happen.
Maybe leave the LSV in situ and try it out. The changes needed to remove the LSV are not big or difficult, so if you really are not happy just swap the rear flexy and be done. And then try it again. All somewhere with LOTS of space and nobody to complain.

On my cars I have manually adjustable rear brake valves. Set up by trial and (largely) error until I was happy that the rear of the car is not likely to overtake the front. Been there, done that. Don't want to do it again. (that was down to diesel on the road, so just bad luck)

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:27 pm 
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Trackerjack Jon himself says that the LSV is no longer needed once his kit is fitted. My own experience bears this out, the TJ fronts lock before the stock (non LSV equipped) rears, even under extreme conditions.

But actually getting rid of the LSV is not all that easy.

The rear flexi is different, the rear section front to back brake metal pipe is different and the LSV itself is mounted in a different place to the bracket for the non LSV flexi (this bracket is also not fitted to LSV equipped cars, though the holes and captives in the body are present)

If you are fitting TJs in the process of a full resto and changing out all the metal and flexi pipes, it may be worth losing the LSV (it will probably be seized solid anyway), but if you're just fitting the TJ's to a running driving car, i'd leave well alone!

Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:31 pm 
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Quote:
Would the item Steve (carledo) made up recently for 1850's do the job?

Tony.
No mate, my modifiation bits go aft of the flexi, on the axle itself.

I can make any pipes needed and also have one or two 1850 style flexi hanger brackets in stock though!

Steve

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'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine EGP 247T (The Dolomega)
'91 Cavalier 2ltr 8v auto
'95 Cavalier 2ltr 16v auto
Spectrum Auto Services, Servicing, Repairs, MOT prep. Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 45 years and home of Maverick Triumph.PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 4:30 pm 
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Jeroen has a valid point but, as with Steve, I have done a lot of hard braking on many track days over 10+ years and the fronts will always lock before the rears.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 8:04 pm 
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Thanks for all of the advice. :D

I think I will stick with the lsv, along with fitting the trackerjack brakes. Kind of belt and braces approach. I have got the lsv off and on my bench today. It doesn’t look to be seized but further investigation will tell. I am replacing all the brake pipes and hoses on my car and think that the lsv has a leak, hence the questions.

Does anyone have any experience of setting one up on the car? Any tips appreciated.

Cheers, Bish.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 12:15 pm 
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Removal and replacement, just mark/count the positions it was set up to; it’s only when fitting a new unit you need to worry.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 2:24 pm 
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Quote:
Removal and replacement, just mark/count the positions it was set up to; it’s only when fitting a new unit you need to worry.
Will do thanks :thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 8:47 pm 
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IIRC wasn't the LSV to reduce the rear braking effort? The drums are upgraded compared to the other cars in the range so they would have made the braking more rear rather than front biased.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 10:14 pm 
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Quote:
IIRC wasn't the LSV to reduce the rear braking effort? The drums are upgraded compared to the other cars in the range so they would have made the braking more rear rather than front biased.
Correct


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