The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 4:12 pm
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Location: Highley, Shropshire
In 45+ years of Triumph ownership and fettling, i've never had a thrust washer failure on one of my own cars despite a succession of Heralds, T2000/2.5, Spitfire and GT6 models, all of which have a rep for it. And only witnessed it on a couple of occasions on customers/friends cars. Whilst there is no doubt that the original design is a bit weak, I think the dire warnings of persistent failure here are a bit overemphasised.

Still, it's worth checking, only takes a minute or two!

Steve

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 4:17 pm 
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Both my wifes 2500 and my dolomite 1300 had a thrustwasher faillure. The 2500 is automatic and just becamae noisy but the 1300 could not declutch anymore. After checking the clutch hydrolics the axial play of the crankshaft was responsible for the "clutch" faillure. Have seen it on others but also experienced on my own Triumphs.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 5:20 pm 
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Location: Bristol
In response to re5rotary all the slave cylinders I have worked on have had a circlip or retainer as the Haynes manual calls it, to stop the piston coming out of the cylinder. It is shown in the Haynes manual and in official triumph workshop manual. I can see that removing will allow it more travel, provided the master cylinder has not come to the end of its travel and is unlikely to cause a problem. Is leaving it out just a fudge to take up wear ? or is it just left out when slaves have been remanufactured or re-sleeved as a cost saving measure.

I know that some owners put a clamp on the slave cylinder when they are bleeding the system but I have never done this because I knew the ones I was working on had the circlip fitted to prevent the piston coming out.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 11:11 pm 
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Quote:

I know that some owners put a clamp on the slave cylinder when they are bleeding the system but I have never done this because I knew the ones I was working on had the circlip fitted to prevent the piston coming out.
The idea behind using the clamp is to minimise the amount of fluid in the slave which in theory reduces the amount of air that can get trapped.
It's a method that as always worked for me which is why I always recommend that method.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 8:40 am 
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Location: Christchurch, New Zealand
Yes the clutch is now working as it was designed to do.

I am a firm believer in doing one thing at a time and in that way eliminate the problem or problems. The suggestions made here were all valid and indeed I followed one of the suggestions given. I started with the simplest knowing that the hydraulics had been bled properly.

The winner then for the chocolate fish (I am not sure how I am going to get a chocolate fish to the other side of the world) for the winner, the one who gave the correct answer to my problem and who resides on the other side of the world was................

Tony - MIG Wielder!

Tony had spotted something which I should have spotted when I put all the hydraulics back in the car and that is, that there is, as I measured it too today, something like 9/64ths of an inch, 4mm, of movement in the slot in which the bolt passes through the side of the slave casing.

I moved the slave forward as far as it would go, clamped it tight, bolted it back in the car, started the car and drove off.

There is a lesson learnt here. I need to take a little more care when assembling items and to check as I go. To be fair this project has been done over many months and I forget where I left off. In the process though I have removed most of the wear around the master cylinder fork and clutch pedal and that coupled with the slave sitting too far back was enough to cause the problem in the first place.

Thank you for your suggestions. Now I can prepare the car for a Warrant of Fitness (WOF) examination and when that is done and the WOF issued I will purchase some car registration which will allow me to drive it legally on the road. It needs a good clean and a polish first.

Robert

If someone can tell me/show me how to edit the header on this thread then it could read .....issue - Resolved


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 9:44 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 28, 2006 9:06 pm
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Location: Bristol
I am glad that the problem is now sorted I think that most Dolomite owners who have been reading this thread will have learnt something.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 7:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:22 am
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I wasn't suggesting removing the circlip to get more travel simply saying that if the piston hits the circlip you will loose travel. By moving the slave further forward in the bracket the pushrod is moving the piston further back in the bore at the start of its travel. Thus probably stopping the piston hitting the circlip at the end of its travel when your foot is on the floor regards Terry


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