The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 5:56 pm 
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Hello: haven't posted here much, but the people on this board were very helpful to me while putting together a Sprint engine that finally went into my TR7 last fall. I'm in the US, so not a lot of help around here on these engines.

It was a very quiet engine when first started up, but after only about 3,000 miles I am hearing a lot of timing chain rattle. I expect that the tensioner has either failed or maybe never unlatched from its initial position. The one thing that makes me uneasy is that the rattle clearly comes from very high up, on or near the cylinder head. Is that just the first place the chain has a chance to go slack? Anything else that could interfere with the chain up there? Anything I can do to get the tensioner to move without removing the timing cover?

Thanks for any suggestions.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 6:28 pm 
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The chain goes very close to the casting of the head so it can get noisy in that area.

When a rolon tensioner has been fitted these can loose their pad. The chain runs on the metal part of the tensioner.

To check all it's timing cover off.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 7:41 pm 
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Yep, I'm aware of the problems with the pad falling off. I would think that would make some noise down low where the chain is grinding on metal instead of rubber, or it would show some scraping on the face of the chain. I can see the chain through the oil fill and haven't noted any links that look ground off. I'm beginning to think I just didn't engage the tensioner when installing it.

I'm taking the valve cover off this weekend to retighten head bolts, so I'll get a better look then.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 7:29 pm 
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Ok, so it took me a few months to actually tear the engine down and deal with the rattle. Here is what I found. As many of these forum posts have noted avoid the Rolon Sprint timing chain tensioners!

Rolon Tensioner Cost: $18
Mileage before failure of Rolon tensioner: 250
Cost of original equipment Jaguar EAC 3629 tensioner: $46
Tear down and replacement time: 6 hours

The outer surface of the chain has some mild abrasion, no sharp edges and nothing that suggests it will fail. But it will probably eat into the new rubber pad faster than a new chain would.

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 9:08 am 
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Location: Ayrshire, Scotland
Another Rolon failure. I'm so glad I took the advice of the guys on here and put the original tensioner back in my 1850. It was slightly grooved but still should see me out.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 9:21 am 
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To be honest, I would have replaced the chain as well whilst it's in bits, regardless of how little apparent damage it shows.

Steve

PS, is there ANYONE out there who has had a Rolon tensioner on a Sprint engine for more than a few thousand miles?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2019 10:53 pm 
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To be honest I know I should have changed the chain as well. Practice makes perfect so if I feel like I need to do it in the future, I now know exactly what a pain in the XXX I'm in for.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 9:04 am 
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Location: Auckland, New Zealand
To think it was May 2013 when I had the exact same problem some 1200km after installation, yet faulty tensioners seem to be still in circulation?

At least the supplier of mine replaced the chain and guides free of charge at the time. Needless to say I found the best used tensioner I had and reused it.

15,000km later and all is fine, as it should be.

Geoff


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 11:50 am 
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I try not to remind myself, but it was autumn 2010 when the Quicksprint failed, coming back from the Haynes TDCIR!


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 8:16 pm 
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So for at least 9 years Rimmer Brothers and others have been selling Rolon pieces of chocolate, that's shocking.
1. Rimmer Brothers (and presumably others) are aware of the problem but still sell them.
2. Rolon must be aware of the problem but still make them
3. Club and forum members still buy and fit them.

I suppose we don't have much control over 1 and 2, but we should spread the word in the strongest terms in our magazine and on this forum to highlight the problem and help prevent damaged engines. Probably the most effective magazine method is a flyer in the mag itself?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2019 10:54 pm 
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Quote:
Probably the most effective magazine method is a flyer in the mag itself?
When you consider there are paid up club members out there who still express surprise when they finally learn what parts and panels the club can now provide, I wouldn't count on it!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 11:11 pm 
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Quote:
So for at least 9 years Rimmer Brothers and others have been selling Rolon pieces of chocolate, that's shocking.
1. Rimmer Brothers (and presumably others) are aware of the problem but still sell them.
2. Rolon must be aware of the problem but still make them
3. Club and forum members still buy and fit them.

I suppose we don't have much control over 1 and 2, but we should spread the word in the strongest terms in our magazine and on this forum to highlight the problem and help prevent damaged engines. Probably the most effective magazine method is a flyer in the mag itself?
You're right, it is shocking and self defeating in the long run. There are suppliers I will try to avoid because they have sold me c**p in the past. So they lose money in the long run by selling rubbish. At least I hope they do.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2019 2:19 pm 
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Lots of people are members of clubs but don't either read or join in discussions.
I have been lucky with the last few engines I have rebuilt as the tensioners have all been Renold and in good condition. I wonder how many good Renold ones have been thrown away to be replaced by these poor quality fakes?

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