The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Any recommendations on adjusting the bonnet so it won't get stuck down while I'm doing it?
Car's back from the painters, and the bonnet's a bugger to open. I'm also concerned about marking the fresh paint.
Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

I assume you mean adjust the alignment to make it look right? Cover the paint in towels to protect it and get someone else to help. It shouldn't be difficult to open, so I would take a look at your bonnet release cable.

I always fit bonnets with the striker removed from the bulhead, that way it can't force the bonnet sideways when closing and chip the paint! I also like to have a mate helping, the bonnet is too heavy and clumsy to safely fit solo! You just don't have enough hands to hold the bonnet clear of the front panel and simultaneously hold the nut plates underneath and start the bolts, even with 2 it's a bit of a struggle.

It does vary from car to car (BL tolerances) but the side and rear gaps are much narrower than the front gap.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.

I do it the same way as Steve. Definitely a two person job when just sprayed. Mary & I usually put a couple of towels over the front of the car initially then pull them out once we have a bolt tightened either side.

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Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

The bonnet is on and bolted down, but it is difficult to open: I have to get fingers in the gap on right hand side while I pull the catch under the dash, and it's not very co-operative. It pops open a bit but won't open unless I'm pulling actually as I pull the catch. I think the pin on the bonnet is catching in the hole in the striker, probably the back of it because the gap at the back is smaller than the front.
So the questions are, how do I work out which way to move the bonnet, how do I move it on my own, and what do I do if that makes it worse?
If the weather is good tomorrow, I'm going to see if I can see anything on where it's catching with a cheap borescope.
Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

Both the latch plate and the pin on the bonnet have slotted holes. With the pin just resting on the plate try to see if the pin is central to the hole.

_________________
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. ... Still Sprintless.

Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.


1997 TVR Chimaera 450

What Mart said ^^^^^^

Get the bonnet fitting nice and square (Larger gap at the front is correct) then adjust the striker to suit the bonnet - not the other way round!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.

It was only an exterior paint after a front ender in the car park at work, so the engine and rad stayed in.
But it's had two wings and a front panel and a full respray, which the insurance paid for nearly half of, so the bonnet's been off and the position of the hinges have moved.
It does seem like it only needs the tiniest bit doing to it, but if I move it the wrong way, I may have a problem topping the oil up next time.
I didn't do it today, I got on with the front lights instead.
Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

What I would do is slacken the latch at the bulkhead so it can move quite freely. Drop the bonnet down onto it and it will centralise it left/right but may now be too low if it gets pushed downwards a tad. Once the L/R is in line with the bonnet, you can lift up the latch a fraction until it connects. This is assuming of course the panel gaps at the front of the bonnet look good. If they dont, get a nice gap at the hinge end first and then go to the latch.
Tony

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