The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 8:13 am 
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When you want the best lights you buy cibie/valeo and you have to pay extra for quality.

When it doesn't matter you buy whatever is the cheapest on ebay. Those are all around the same quality.

When you use 100w bulbs Hella is your choice. These have more internal volume.

Easy...

Jeroen.
Jeroen,

Thanks for the info, and I did have a look at the Facebook page, it does always seem to be the case of you get what you pay for!
I was thinking it may be a good move to get Cibie with side light built in as I could wire them in as daytime running lights, question though will they fit in the bowls ok? Looking at pictures of them the curve of the lens look good, whereas the Autopal, people are suggesting the glass curve is not great.
As for the Hella, I cannot find these anywhere.

Chris.


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 Post subject: Aye,....
PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 9:40 am 
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Location: Caithness, Scotland
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As for the Hella, I cannot find these anywhere.

Chris.
Here you go Chris...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Pair-of-HELLA- ... /716975007

https://www.google.co.uk/search?safe=ac ... jxnO0HRLps



Ian.

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 1:15 pm 
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Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
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I did buy the ones with the park light bulb included and that is wired in permanently via an ignition feed so I use them as daytime running lights
I've got the outers with the subsiduary lights, but I haven't wired them in.

To do that, I'd have to add more leads out the back of the bowls and up through the wheel arch gromets, buy (at £6.36 each + P&P) and add 3mm round pin 1 way Lucas RIST connectors in parallel with the 3 way main/dip/earth ones, and run a lead along the loom up to the fusebox, and wind another layer of tape on the leads - running leads out the bowls is probably the hardest part of that (after spending cash), cos I've wound extra tape on the three wires to wedge them into the longtail grommets in the bowls (though I ain't done the wheelarch grommets yet).

You might ask if I have to use 3mm round pin 1 way Lucas RISTS, but they'd have to match the 3 way ones, and I ain't changing them again.

I could do all that. But the question is, is it worth it?

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 6:57 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
I did buy the ones with the park light bulb included and that is wired in permanently via an ignition feed so I use them as daytime running lights
I've got the outers with the subsiduary lights, but I haven't wired them in.

To do that, I'd have to add more leads out the back of the bowls and up through the wheel arch gromets, buy (at £6.36 each + P&P) and add 3mm round pin 1 way Lucas RIST connectors in parallel with the 3 way main/dip/earth ones, and run a lead along the loom up to the fusebox, and wind another layer of tape on the leads - running leads out the bowls is probably the hardest part of that (after spending cash), cos I've wound extra tape on the three wires to wedge them into the longtail grommets in the bowls (though I ain't done the wheelarch grommets yet).

You might ask if I have to use 3mm round pin 1 way Lucas RISTS, but they'd have to match the 3 way ones, and I ain't changing them again.

I could do all that. But the question is, is it worth it?


Graham
You could order a headlamp relay conversion set with this optional extra wired in. :wink:

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Thu May 30, 2019 9:11 pm 
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Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Quote:

You could order a headlamp relay conversion set with this optional extra wired in. :wink:

Jeroen
Presumably that would replace the 3 wire sets I just finished building from scratch on ceramic headlight connectors, high current wiring, and 3mm round pin connectors? And I've got the relays under the dash to the side of the switch for the rear screen heater, which I must get working.

Sorry, but it would be the additional wire job if I did it. I think I left a switch out of that list - visions of the sketch with the Volvo 240 crushed to a small cube with the running lights still on. Was it "Not the 9 o'clock news"?

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2019 8:43 pm 
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Update on headlights, here is what I ended up buying.
Very good quality, made in Belgium. Not cheap but they do seem to fit very well and the original connectors just plug straight on.
Will fit relays at a later date, I’m not expecting to use the lights much at the moment.
Also the curve on the glass is pretty much identical to the sealed beams.

Chris.

Image

Image

Image

Image


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