The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

After going from electric to normal water pump on the Sprint, I keep getting a slight loss from the slot. I know the stag boys have aFord pump mod some are using but has anyone tried an external belt driven pump? Fed up of pulling the pumps apart now.

Cheers

Tony

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Membership 2014047

Why swap out the electric in the first place? And why not put it back in the second?

The Saab 99 had a more or less Dolomite block, used a Sprint timing chain and tensioner, but had a belt driven water pump. Might be worth investigating whether that one could be used. Think the Ford water pump the Stag boys use is a refugee from an Essex V6.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.

It is the Essex v6 Steve, a pal has got one on his Stag. Been on 9yrs without problem.

Tony.

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NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057

Yes I know its the v4 /v6 pump they use. Electric was no good in cooler weather, always running with no heater heat. Great in the hot weather. I wanted a stat back in there and I didnt want to use external stat with extra hoses etc cos it clutters up the bay too much for my eyes .
I was thinking of using a modern pump front and fabricating a bracket to hold steady on the block. That way the pump can be replaced easily if needed. Space is the main problem though. Not keen on moving alternator to the N/s.

Cheers

Tony

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Membership 2014047

But when needing a heater and a thermostat system you need the external and extra hoses again?

Jeroen

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com

There's been a lot of talk about how the EWP kills the heater, but a very basic mod will get it working again if you use the DC controller.

The DC controller allows a faster warmup than even a thermostat can produce, so intrinsically, there's no reason for the heater NOT to work. The reason is to do with flow! By moving the pump upstream into the bottom hose, you ruin the heater circulation path. So the simple cure is to blank the heater return spigot in the water pump housing and tee it into the bottom hose between the EWP and the bottom of the rad. With correct circulation restored the heater will work just fine!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.

Yes but:
Jeroen

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com

The rejigging of the heater hose is required.
A remote thermostat in the top hose will allow the cooling system to work properly.

According to John Benson from Davies Craig their controllers are unsuitable for the European temperate climate
and he is right.
However they do have a method to fool the cooling system into working "normally" which involves spinning the pump without
any coolant flow (hence the very short working life of their pumps).

Compared to a Stewart pump, Davies Craig products are incredibly poor value.



Ian.

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I have studied this Tony and concluded that a Sprint's engine mount is in the way preventing such a conversion.



Ian.

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PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
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A sorry saga.......


http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/foru ... te-engine/





Ian.

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TDC Forum moderator
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.

Yes remembered that.

Never needed exotic parts or rads. Just std pumps and slightly bigger alloy rod because of towing caravans through Italy. Rebuild the std pump and you will be fine.

Jeroen

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Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com

Rebuilt 3 pumps now with similar results. All impellers were skimmed to give a good surface. I think its either bad quality graphite seals or the spring tension on the seal is not enough. I even pushed the impeller down 0.25mm and used a shim on top to allow some more contact pressure because of the skimming.
I followed Ians results with DC pump as I was doing my install about then. He had a good solution with the external stat in the hose but for looks I didnt go that route.

When the water temp gets normal with no stat heater is great (pump is running) when air comes through the rad it cools and turns the pump off and then no flow.

Cheers

Tony

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