The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Almost like it was just a joke or something..

It must have lost something in the translation.

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).

I think someone has mistranslated "small chassis cars" ie Herald, Spitfire and their derivatives, as "small saloons" the less well known term for the Dolomite range and it's variants and predecessors.

All the small chassis cars have the horn push in the steering wheel (with the exception, I think, of the 1500 Spit) and need some sort of earth connection across the lower coupling, which, IIRC, originally comprised a cable between the 2 clamp bolts. Also a second, oft mislaid, earth for the (rubber mounted) rack body.

Whereas the Dolomite range mostly has it's horn push on the indicator switch and switched power, rather than the switched earth of the Herald et al. Though i'm not sure how the 1300FWD one works.

Apologies if I'm teaching Granny to suck eggs here!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.

James

A very timely topic for I have several knuckles sitting here on my bench all waiting for me to rebuild.

Each has a centre disc which measures 0.230, close to ¼ and certainly not 3/16.

I would be most interested in sourcing some longer bolts, longer than the one measured here, 0.9845 or near enough to 1 inch for then I would rebuild mine, Loctite the threads and then wire them as was originally done.

Robert