The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
It is currently Fri Mar 29, 2024 8:18 am

All times are UTC




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 9:04 pm 
Offline
TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7014
Location: Highley, Shropshire
If you'd said, I have several sets of front backplates, as they get deleted during the Trackerjack conversion. You could have had a pair for the cost of postage!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2019 11:10 pm 
Offline
TDC Member

Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:53 pm
Posts: 1699
Location: Harrow Middlesex
Quote:
If you'd said, I have several sets of front backplates, as they get deleted during the Trackerjack conversion. You could have had a pair for the cost of postage!

Steve
When i fitted my Trackerjack conversion,i made new brake backplates to fit,i made them in stainless there polished on one side, but forgot to turn the metal over on the passengers side, so the polish side faces the disc

Dave


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 9:17 am 
Offline
TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7014
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Quote:
Quote:
If you'd said, I have several sets of front backplates, as they get deleted during the Trackerjack conversion. You could have had a pair for the cost of postage!

Steve
When i fitted my Trackerjack conversion,i made new brake backplates to fit,i made them in stainless there polished on one side, but forgot to turn the metal over on the passengers side, so the polish side faces the disc

Dave
There's no good reason NOT to make your own backplates if that's what floats your boat!

OTOH, they really aren't necessary, i've been running TJs for 7 years now and not had so much as one small stone caught by the caliper. I don't think there's a market for them as a commercial proposition, the conversion is quite expensive if you total it all up, parts alone come to around £450 if you do it properly with new calipers, wheel bearings, bespoke hoses etc. adding the cost of backplates is just an un-necessary extra expense.

I'm not quibbling about the cost of the conversion itself, I reckon the improvement in braking is well worth the money! But I personally wouldn't pay out for bling on top! Nor can I be arsed to make it myself, i'm a cafe racer at heart, NOTHING gets ADDED to my cars that doesn't actively make it faster!

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


Top
   
PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 9:41 pm 
Offline
TDC Member

Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2019 9:00 pm
Posts: 282
Progress report.

All blasted, welded where necessary, primed and painted. All washers and small brackets, sub frame mounts etc. blasted, etched and zinc plated. Spent a couple of hours this afternoon reassembling most of it. Hopeing to get it back on the car tomorrow - really want the car back on the road before Christmas but am being limited on time I can spend in the garage :(

Old bushes pushed out OK and new poly bushes pressed in without too mush drama. Ended up replacing pretty much all the ball joints, they were all rusty inside where the rubbers had split allowing in water. Some had perished due to age, some split/worm where they rub and one looked like it had been nibbled by mice (I have a recurring problem with mice chewing various tasty rubber and plastic bits - oil pressure gauge feeds, windscreen washer tubing, wiring and rubber door seals, and that's just the bits I have found over the years!)

Some pics of progress:


Image

Zinc Plating underway.



Image

Pile of plated parts waiting for re-assembly

Image

Pile of parts all painted


Image

Getting it all back together.


Image

Still need to tighten all the bolts up and fit a few more bits.

_________________
1975 Sprint Man O/D in Honeysuckle Yellow
1971 Stag Auto White

Too many cars, too little time!


Top
   
PostPosted: Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:18 pm 
Offline
TDC Member

Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2019 9:00 pm
Posts: 282
Just to finish off. Managed to get it all back together just before Xmas, had a few things to sort out after when I could get the bits. All went fairly smoothly with the exception of the roll bar bushes, 24mm supplied in the poly kit so had to change them for 21mm ones. Also the nearside anti roll bar mounting bracket had fractured so the two parts did not hook together. Ended up paying through the nose to get one from Rimmers. Fitted an new pad fitting kit (the pads squeal like a banshee with no shims fitted). Fitted the little R clips (unlike the previous owner). Bled the brakes all round to be sure. Only other little niggle was the spilt pins in the new wheel bearing kit were too big for the new stub axles! No idea which part is wrong. Found some that fitted nicely. So all is good.

Tips for anyone else doing this:

- Check the drag strut holes in the subframe, chance are they are worn and elongated. Easily repaired with a bit of weld. Also look at the ends of the drag struts themselves. Mine were OK but easy to see how some could be badly worn - they can be made good but probably easier to find aome better ones.

-Check the diameter of the anti roll bar before ordering new bushes!

- Have a good look for stress cracks on the roll bar mounting brackets.

-Be prepared to find some replacement washers for the drag struts and some of the sub frame mounts - they can get quite badly pitted with rust.

- Give the splines on the steering rack, steering column and the lower knuckle joints a good clean and light oil to make re-assembly easier, make sure the knuckle slides on and off easily on both parts before offering up the completed sub frame - don't forget to centre the rack and the steering wheel.

- Reckon on changing all the rubber bits - especially things like ball joint boots and steering rack gaiters.

- don't forget to check the tracking when it is all back together.

Next to redo the sunroof, it has a big tear where someone took a knife to it to break in.


Image
Sub frame all ready to go back on the car.

Image
Lifting it up into position.

Image
All bolted up

Image
Don't expect it will stay clean for long!

Roger

_________________
1975 Sprint Man O/D in Honeysuckle Yellow
1971 Stag Auto White

Too many cars, too little time!


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous 1 2

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AhrefsBot [Bot], Majestic-12 [Bot] and 34 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited