The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Looking for any tips on how to best remove the solenoid on a Dolomite Sprint. Seems I need a 1inch spanner, but even though I have the Gbox tunnel out, it is not easy to get the spanner in and get enough turn to remove the solenoid. Reading the manual, the J type o/d is not easy to know if the solenoid is working as it does not make any sound when activating. When removed, it is possible to test activation, but as I say removal is not easy. Any help gratefully received.
Thanks
Mike

You can hear a J type solenoid working. It is a fairly soft click, but even with a gearbox tunnel in place I can hear it (not with engine running though)

Before going any further, I would be connecting up a 12V feed to test the solenoid direct. If it doesn't click, try a temporary earth connection. My earth wire failed on the start to the RBRR 18months ago, and I only sussed it as I saw a flash coming from the middle of the earth wire while the car was perched on axle stands in a pub carpark. I had tried a couple of things to get it working prior to that, assuming a failed inhibitor switch.

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Clive Senior
Brighton

To get it out on a 1500 you need a thin crows foot spanner and I assume a sprint would be the same and once out it may just need a good clean of the valve and a replacement of the O rings part NKC107. There are two I believe. I would also replace the copper washer NKC108.

I have a cheapy spanner that I ground down so it's thin enough, that's how I did it.

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I too have a cheap, ground down spanner that I use. But having access to a ramp and a gearbox jack, I prefer to drop the crossmember and remove it from below. It's easy enough with that out of the way!

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
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Mine was an expensive Britool spanner. But needs must.
This version fits the 1850 which has the same O/D solenoid but access is restricted 'cos of the exhaust.
The jaws need to be ground down to be much thinner as well.
I use a copper hammer to whack the spanner to release the solenoid. Once it has moved 1/6 of a turn it will unscrew by hand.
Tony.

Buy a stethoscope and energise it. If it is working you will hear it using the stethoscope.

Thanks guys. All this work is to get things working for a couple of us to do the RBRR this year and obviously we really want the overdrive working. All great suggestions and I am sure it will all be sorted very soon. The cutting down of a 1inch spanner seems to be the answer. Moss sell something that should work, but before spending the £13, wanted to ask for guidance. You have all helped enormously. Thank you and see any of you doing the RBRR in October.
Mike

You will deffo want the OD working!
Do check the earth wire even if it looks OK. They go hard with oil contamination over there 45 years on a car, and that can cause the wire to invisibly fracture. If it isn't flexible, replace it. Easy to do in good light up in the air.
Hopefully just an electrical issue, 99% are.

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Clive Senior
Brighton

All sorted (well nearly). Changed the solenoid and the overdrive now works. Phew, that’s a relief. Got the tunnel back in Yesterday and today is the carpet and seats. You need to be double jointed to do these jobs or more likely better to be on the lower side of 60 yrs old......which I am not. Anyhow all the advise given here has been invaluable. Thank You all.