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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 7:14 pm 
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In a moment of being too over zealous I have managed to snap one of my wheel studs on my
New to me 1975 1500TC... it is fitted with sprint alloys

Should I get the 40mm length or 48mm ones....


And can they be changed in situ or do I need to take the hub off....


Thanks in advance

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 7:19 pm 
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Front, or back?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 7:19 pm 
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Double post

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 7:23 pm 
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Front ones...

Yes I posted in the wrong section then couldn’t remove it from the wanted section.

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VW Touran for winter and family everyday use...


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 Post subject: Hmm......
PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 7:28 pm 
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Quote:
In a moment of being too over zealous I have managed to snap one of my wheel studs on my
New to me 1975 1500TC... it is fitted with sprint alloys

Should I get the 40mm length or 48mm ones....


And can they be changed in situ or do I need to take the hub off....


Thanks in advance
There is only one length of wheel stud used on a 1500TC, in other words back and front are the same (part no. 158729)
these are 3/8" UNF.


I am pretty sure these can be changed in situ on the front.



Ian.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 7:37 pm 
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Thanks Ian

I was looking on rimmers website and they were quoting the two lengths I mentioned.

I wondered if the longer ones were for sprint alloys....

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1500TC for summer everyday use....
VW Touran for winter and family everyday use...


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 8:36 pm 
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The fronts can be changed on the car

Dave


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 9:21 pm 
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Quote:
In a moment of being too over zealous I have managed to snap one of my wheel studs on my
New to me 1975 1500TC... it is fitted with sprint alloys

Should I get the 40mm length or 48mm ones....


And can they be changed in situ or do I need to take the hub off....


Thanks in advance
They all can be changed in situ but are you sure you want to replace one? They only break when there's metal fatigue mostly caused by wheelguns. Around 25 years ago just one day for a holiday to Italy one snapped when refitting the wheels again at the pre-holiday check. To be sure I set the torque wrench a few NM higher to check and 5 more did snap. These studs aren't that great but normally you really have to do your best to break one and if you did manage without using an elephant I would replace all.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 9:29 pm 
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Was this with the proper 3/8 sprint wheel nuts? Surprised the thread din't strip on the alloy nut way before snapping the stud!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2020 9:52 pm 
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It was common on early Sprints for the studs to neck at the point of exit from the hub and eventually sheer, it's why they increased the size to 7/16". Not sure if they ever found out why it happened, but it was peculiar to the use of alloy wheels.

I have loads of good used 3/8" studs if you want some?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2020 9:45 pm 
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In the case of Sprint studs the workshop manual gives the 3/8 in stud tightening torque as just 50 lb.ft.
The 7/16 in stud torque is 70 lb.ft
This is a lot less than a modern.

Sprint manual 06-2 refers.
Tony.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 12:25 pm 
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I just changed a snapped stud on my Spitfire (rear). but very similar to a Dolomite. I used a ball joint separator and some appropriate sized sockets to push out the old stud and then push in the new one. On the rears you will have to remove the brake shoes I suspect.

You can punch out the old but risk damaging something with too much force. You can pull the new stud in with a wheel nut and washers to allow the stud shoulder to come through the hub but if it is tight, you risk snapping the new stud I would suspect.

Years ago I had some new tyres fitted at a tyre shop. They started tightening the wheel nuts to 120nm as that's what they always did. I had to shout across the shop to get them to stop before they broke something. According to Haynes, 60nm is good for Steel wheels and 67nm for alloy wheels with 3/8 studs, 94nm for alloys with 7/16 studs.

I always take loose wheels to the tyre shop now.

At the risk of hijacking, can 7/16 studs be fitted to a hub with 3/8 studs without modification or is it possible to drill the hub to take the larger studs?

David

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 1:20 pm 
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Quote:

At the risk of hijacking, can 7/16 studs be fitted to a hub with 3/8 studs without modification or is it possible to drill the hub to take the larger studs?

David
You can fit the 7/16" studs to a 3/8" hub no bother at all. The trick lies in getting hold of the 7/16" studs which have been NLA for many years and are about as easy to buy as hen's teeth!

There are several choices to uprate the studs though, you can get MkI Escort 7/16" studs from ebay and they'll fit with minor modding or you can go for series I Freelander or MGF 12mm studs which will fit the hubs and uprate the nuts accordingly. Other solutions are probably out there, but those are the ones I know of!

Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 2:34 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:

At the risk of hijacking, can 7/16 studs be fitted to a hub with 3/8 studs without modification or is it possible to drill the hub to take the larger studs?

David
You can fit the 7/16" studs to a 3/8" hub no bother at all. The trick lies in getting hold of the 7/16" studs which have been NLA for many years and are about as easy to buy as hen's teeth!

There are several choices to uprate the studs though, you can get MkI Escort 7/16" studs from ebay and they'll fit with minor modding or you can go for series I Freelander or MGF 12mm studs which will fit the hubs and uprate the nuts accordingly. Other solutions are probably out there, but those are the ones I know of!

Steve
Stag wheel studs are 7/16 there available and they fit dolomite hubs the rear ones are a bit longer couple mm

Dave


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 7:16 pm 
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Incidentally, you need to separate the disc from the hub to extract the studs.

A sharp tap with a hammer releases them.


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