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Early 1850 advice http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=35763 |
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Author: | dollyman [ Fri May 08, 2020 10:01 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
You are right as usual Jeroen, i stand corrected Sorry Veloce Tony. |
Author: | veloce_rosso [ Fri May 08, 2020 10:56 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
Quote:
You are right as usual Jeroen, i stand corrected Sorry Veloce
No need to apologize. For a second I thought I was going gaga, because I couldn't remember changing the springs.
Tony. |
Author: | Carledo [ Fri May 08, 2020 11:54 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
Quote: Quote: Quote:
Changing the dampers wont change the ride hight, that is down to the springs/
Yes they can. There are a lot of diffences in lower springseat heights of aftermarket shocks for Dolomites. The orientation where the lower seat is welded on the tube related to the lower fitting eye. This will cause the car to be lower or higher using the same spring.Tony. Jeroen I pushed the boat out and bought the ASP Gaz for the Carledo, purely to get the desired ride height in the face of Zero information available on anything but Sprint spring rates complicated by my car having different power unit weights and CofG from my mods. I'm not usually that profligate with money, but it was the simplest solution at the time. And it let me keep to standard NOS springs, Sprint front and Toledo rear, which are fine on my very light (760kg kerb weight) car. Steve |
Author: | James467 [ Wed May 13, 2020 12:22 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
Quote: Quote: Quote:
Get in touch with James Shepard on here. Hes restoring an early 1850 that he will sell when its done, it will be a good one.
Thanks Matt! Yes I am currently restoring Nina, unfortunately due to the current situation I have slowed a bit as I am stuck with looking after the kids!! But it will leave me with a new paint job and fully wax (Bilt Hamber) rust protected, new brakes, electronic ignition, fully relayed cibie halogen headlamps (loom by Jeroen) the full works. When you are ready feel free to give me a shout. I have a couple of updates to do, the rear wheel arches are now done and I just need to fit the outer sill. https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 19&t=35610 |
Author: | sprint95m [ Sat May 23, 2020 8:50 pm ] |
Post subject: | Aye..... |
Quote:
You and a lot of others mate! Probably part of the reason for it's demise! I had a subscription because the nearest source otherwise was a 30 mile round trip. But gave even that up about a year ago, purely on cost grounds. (I also gave up my TSSC membership as it offered the least of my 3 club memberships)
I also have issue one of Triumph World, Steve.But I have virtually a complete set including issue one! Steve If you find the issue numbers you are short of I might be able to help. I have a box of them which I bought on ebay some years ago. When I say bought, what I should say is I paid for postage, the seller was happy for them to go to a new home. It wasn't a complete set though.... thanks, Ian. |
Author: | veloce_rosso [ Thu Jul 02, 2020 10:40 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
Quote: Quote: Quote: Thanks Matt! Yes I am currently restoring Nina, unfortunately due to the current situation I have slowed a bit as I am stuck with looking after the kids!! But it will leave me with a new paint job and fully wax (Bilt Hamber) rust protected, new brakes, electronic ignition, fully relayed cibie halogen headlamps (loom by Jeroen) the full works. When you are ready feel free to give me a shout. I have a couple of updates to do, the rear wheel arches are now done and I just need to fit the outer sill. https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... 19&t=35610 |
Author: | veloce_rosso [ Fri Jun 18, 2021 6:41 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
Morning everyone. It's been a long time since I last visited this forum. After all the chaos caused by the pandemic and getting my business up and running, finally looking at early Dollies. Yesterday I looked at a early 1850 for sale. It's not a King's ransom but it's a solid example. However, because I've been out of the Dolly loop for so long I'm hoping the learned members could give me some advice. Firstly, the owner has owned it for about 10 years. The owner hasn't driven it. The car, although quite solid is in need of some TLC. Pros: Nice, tight engine; The oil smells okay (I sniffed the dip stick & oil filler cap) bodywork is rust free apart from a few tiny blemishes. I checked all the usual places such as the arches, sills, checked the inner wings and so on and so forth; interior is complete and all seems good. Cons: Water pump leaking; not been serviced in who knows when; The brake pedal has no pressure but does spring back. I presume, then, it's the master cylinder that's shot as there's no sign of leakage; Because of the amount of time not used I would have to change all the braking on the four sides (discs and pads and possibly pipes); Wheels need to be refurbed; I would also guess the clutch plate might need changing. Haven't driven the car as the brake peddle isn't inspiring. As we all know, for a car that's nearly 50 years old once you start digging I could end up with a can of worms. Then it depends which way the worms wiggle. I know the brakes and water pump are the first port of call. Any advice and idea on how much I should offer the seller would be much appreciated. Cheers, V_R |
Author: | matt of the vivas [ Fri Jun 18, 2021 10:05 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
If it's a solid, original car grab it. The mechanical side is easy enough and parts are plentiful. It's always the bodywork that's harder. Price: I paid £2k for a rock solid SE last year, similar condition. No brakes, stood for years, blemishes on the paint but no real rust. At that price I was happy. An early 1850 is arguably more desirable. And someone is trying to sell a "sprint shell" with no rust but needing paint and missing mechanicals for £6500.... I'd aim for between 2.5 and 3k. |
Author: | veloce_rosso [ Mon Jun 21, 2021 12:11 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Early 1850 advice |
Quote:
If it's a solid, original car grab it.
Decided there's too many doubts, as it's a non-driver. If the asking price was lower I would be tempted but he's asking a grand too much for a car that needs a lot of tinkering and plenty of money before it's fully safe to drive.The mechanical side is easy enough and parts are plentiful. It's always the bodywork that's harder. Price: I paid £2k for a rock solid SE last year, similar condition. No brakes, stood for years, blemishes on the paint but no real rust. At that price I was happy. An early 1850 is arguably more desirable. And someone is trying to sell a "sprint shell" with no rust but needing paint and missing mechanicals for £6500.... I'd aim for between 2.5 and 3k. I fully appreciate you won't find everything original on a 50-year-old car, but there's too many alarm bells ringing. |
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