The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 9:07 am

All times are UTC




Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 8:02 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:35 pm
Posts: 1735
Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Has any body used any of the electronic, in distributor, ignition modules with a 6 volt coil, and does it run reasonably cool?

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 12:00 am 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2006 9:57 am
Posts: 669
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Yes, both Magnetronic and Stealth (Accuspark). No issues with either over a long period of time. With various ballast resistor type coils, Bosch GT40 and old Lucas ones.

Only change to the wiring is to take the positive live feed to the unit from the ignition switch feed at the fuse box and NOT from the positive terminal on the coil. I extended the red wire from the electronic unit and ran it across the top of the brake servo to the fusebox. Otherwise the ballast resistor coil wiring is unchanged.

Only time I've noticed a coil get warm is with the ignition on for a long time turning over on the starter, but the engine not running. As the coil is being fed 'full' volts from the starter when the starter is running, I just put the increase in coil temperature down to that.

So reliable I would never go back to points.

Geoff

PS Magentronic with GT40 ballast resistor coil used to cope with 7500rpm on the race car so plenty of reserve for road use.


Top
   
PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 12:56 am 
Offline
Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:13 am
Posts: 3173
Location: The continent
As long as the minimum primairy resistance isn't lower than the manufacturer states in the fitting instructions all will be fine. Lot's of electronic kits are fried by non reading fitters not knowing what coil they have. The forums and FB groups are full with these shouting I'M GOING BACK TO POINTS BECAUSE BLAH BLAH BLAH.

3 Ohm is alway's safe as thats the conventional value of a ballasted coil and resistor or a non ballasted coil. Lumenition does last decades but a resistance of 2,5 Ohm or less will damage the module within 10 minutes. An 123 distributor can switch coils starting from 1 Ohm so you can use a ballasted coil without the resistor.

Reading, measuring then fitting.

Jeroen

_________________
Classic Kabelboom Company. For all your wiring needs. http://www.classickabelboomcompany.com


Top
   
PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2020 1:47 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:35 pm
Posts: 1735
Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
I've ordered one from China for the 25D, that looks like it might go under the 44D rotor arm. I think it will fit the 44D, just with a different grommet.

And I have a non-working 45D one with a plate that fits the 44d but won't go under the 44D rotor and flash guard. I don't know if it was no good when I got it S/H, or didn't work with the 6v coil or what.

If the 25D one won't or won't work with the 6v coil, or I can't make it fit the 44D, it should still work on the Herald. And it was only £20.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 4:54 pm 
Offline
TDC Member
User avatar

Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:35 pm
Posts: 1735
Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
The lower profile ignition module arrived today. I've fitted it in the spare spare distributor and it just goes under the 44D rotor arm. But it would need the flash guard modifying to make it fit and I ain't doing that.

Image
Image

Oddly the unit supplied is clearly not for a 25D: The grommet is all wrong and wouldn't even fit a 45D with the female spade on the black lead. The rotor arm seems to be a 45D one - too long in the arm for the 25D and 44D. It also sits 2-3mm higher, but I think that's largely because it's a piece of crap as the red 25D arm and the red 45D arm I shortened the brass on both fit fine. But I reckon I can make the module fit the 25D for drilling out an old grommet.

As it won't take the flash guard, even if it will drive the 6v coll (waiting till the end of the Lancashire rainy season to check) I think I'll still get one of the Sparkrite SX6000s in the next credit card month, which SimonBBC's measurements say should fit properly.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic  Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AhrefsBot [Bot], Amazon [Bot], Google, Trendiction and 32 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited