The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

My car is up on stands at the front with them under the subframe. The last piece of the suspension to go back is the anti roll bar and the links. I can get the bar on at the subframe fixing points with the new poly buses in place, but I can't get the links to drop in through the bottom arms at each end of the bar....
I have tried to get them aligned with everything fitted loosely but with no joy and I was wandering, if having the car on stands creates some form of forces that won't allow the alignment of the ARB drop links?

Any views on perhaps how to make this a bit easier please would be greatly appreciated..

Cheers in advance.

James

I always the ARB the hardest bit, mainly because the springs in situ force the lower arms down. This in turn narrows the gap between the outer mount points and makes the angles even worse. Then you need a ton of BFMI to get them aligned.

So my method involves fitting the ARB before the front uprights and hubs are in position. With the lower arms unconnected to anything they can be arranged horizontally which makes fitting the ARB links a LOT easier. I've stuggled often with the uprights in place, there ARE other ways, but none so good as just taking the uprights out again.

Steve

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'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

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Thanks Steve.

As I have rebuilt the suspension and tightened everything prior to dropping the car and torquing everything up, and with the restricted access my garage brings, it was a right pain in the backside to get it all in and aligned and so I would rather, if at all possible not have to remove the struts again.....

With that any other ideas or suggestions from anyone would be appreciated........

Question - could I compress the springs in situ to reduce the downforce on the arms at all if it the springs are providing the resistance?

And what is BFMI?? Brute Force something?

Previously, when I have done this job I have had the engine in place and,
with the subframe on stands, have jacked the suspension up to create the angle for the drop links to fit.
I am sure I fitted the ARB after the links.

It is usually a struggle and I do suspect Steve's strut removal method is quicker,
but thrawn as I am, I am rather loathe to remove parts if I can avoid such.




Ian.

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Use a long coil spring compressor between the end of the anti roll bar and the upright part of the subframe between the 2 wishbones. As you tighten it it will pull the anti roll bar into the correct position for easy fitting. I probably have a picture somewhere... But it's easy enough to figure out.

When i did mine i had the lower ball joints out of the lower arm, still a two man job but they went ok.

Tony.

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NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057

Picture to go with previous post.... Easy if you do it like this.

What I HAVE tried in the past is to pull the ends of the bar together with a lorry drivers ratchet strap. It's a bit rickety feeling for the H+S minded, but it does work if you absolutely don't want to undo what you've already done (know that feeling)

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.

Thanks fella's

Will try some of these at the weekend if it isn't so cold I cant feel my hands!

Thanks again....