The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Being retired I find that I tend to hibernate in the winter months where in the summer months there's cars to wash and maintain, gardens to tend to, gutters to empty and power wash 97 square yards of brick pavers along with preventative weedkiller.Also numerous painting and other jobs.
But in the winter there is nothing to do except go in the garage and find something to do. when you get older you feel the cold a lot more for some reason. When I was younger I worked on the markets in all weathers including snow and ice, rain and wind and it never bothered me but now I sit in front of the telly all day - hibernating.
So my son suggested I get a log burner in the garage which if I am not mistaken will be cosy. I have tried the big gas burner that takes all the oxygen out and fan heaters that do nothing in a double garage.
I am a bit worried about the safety of a real fire in a timber garage and wanted to know what others think.
Alan

I have seen it done on Youtube.

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1997 TVR Chimaera 450

Alan

Timber is the primary material used here for house and other buildings for it is very resilient in an earthquake. I have never been worried about the timber in my house catching fire.

I have two log burners in my house and am considering moving one of them into my workshop, when it is due for replacement (the log burner internals tend to bend and warp a bit with the dry, heavy wood I burn).

There are though some pretty detailed instructions which must be followed here, hearth dimensions, insulation behind the burner and flue and so on. The real issue here is whether the type of fire meets the clean air burning regulations. Here the local council must approve what you are doing before you install and there is an inspection before the fire is lit for the first time.

Follow whatever rules you have, let your insurance company know, and I would not give it another thought. The fire will of course induce a draught as it draws air in to burn, which we regard as no bad thing for it creates the very necessary circulation of fresh air into the space which is being heated. Your alternative might be to install a flued gas burner which too will require fresh air to replace what is going up the flue.

Can't see it being a problem if you install it properly. We have a wood stove in an old house, flue (non twin wall so very hot!) passes close to the oak beam holding up the fireplace (an old inglenook type). Not sure what the regs are for out buildings but in houses it needs a HETAS certificate - as always the issue will be if it goes messy and burns the place down, the insurance won't pay out if it wasn't properly installed and maintained.

In reality you just need a decent hearth (non combustible floor) under the fire, a few paving slabs will do and take care with route of the flue and where it exits the roof. You can use twin wall flue and suitable non-flammable board where it goes through. One issue might be the height of the flue and getting a decent draw as it is just a single storey garage. Make sure you have plenty of flue sticking out of the roof to get a decent draw otherwise the stove will never burn effectively and will just smoke you out!

Can't see the fact that it is a timber garage being any more of a problem than having one in your living room with potential for sparks etc on the lounge carpet!! (yes it does happen!!).

Roger

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1975 Sprint Man O/D in Honeysuckle Yellow
1971 Stag Auto White

Too many cars, too little time!

It can be done perfectly safely in a timber building.

You need to get the stove fitting instructions first and that should have details about how close combustible surfaces can be. This will enable you to determine whether you need a constructional hearth (usually 225mm of bricks or concrete), or whether you can have a superficial hearth (often a 12mm fire resistant board). Either hearth should extend at least 150mm behind the stove, 150mm out each side and 300mm out from the front opening. It will also give you information on what material you need behind the stove, and how far each side and above the stove it needs to extend.

You can run a single wall flue up to just below joist/rafter level but then you need to switch to an insulated twin wall flue. Where this passes through the timbers you need to fit spacer plates from the flue manufacturer, which maintain a 50mm air gap.

If you are at all unsure, then it's probably best to get a HETAS registered fitter to do it.

I think your problem will not be putting it in a timber building but placing something where the combustion chamber is not sealed off from the room. Bear in mind given its a garage it's possible that the room could have explosive vapours in it (petrol, thinners etc) I would be minded to consult your local building control expert for guidance.

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1977 1850 HL manual O/D