The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

DO NOT PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL WHILST THE MASTER CYLINDER IS OFF, YOU STAND A GOOD CHANCE OF DESTROYING THE BAKELITE DIAPHRAGM IN YOUR SERVO IF YOU DO.

I wasn't intending to touch the brake pedal with the master cylinder off - but thank you for the servo warning, I certainly wasn't aware of that potential for heartache...!

How do I get hold of club spares please fellas?

You would have to be a club member Alan.

Tony.

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NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057

When I take my 1500 Dolomites in for their annual MoT the mechanic invariably tells me that the NSR handbrake effectiveness is not as good as the OSR. I just can’t explain this as I check it over and set it up just the same as the OSR. Can anyone suggest a reason for this happening?

I have come across some new slave cylinders which were too tight to fit and slide in the back plate. I have found normally they are quite difficult to move by hand in the back plate so I normally use a hammer to tap them from end to end of the slot when it comes to checking they will move.

When it comes to fitting the drums back on following turning the adjusters by hand I have found that I fit the drums and then operate both the handbrake and the foot brake one at a time, with a much force as possible in the hope that this will get the shoes in the best position. I then take the drums off again and see if I can wind out the adjusters just a little bit more and still be able to get the drums back on without them binding. I may do this cycle several times. As previously stated by Carledo I have found the need to grind the lips off the inside of the drum so that it does not stop it going on and coming off again.

It did take me a long time to discover how critical it is to get the hand brake cables adjusted correctly so that the hand brake lever does not have to come up too many clicks. I believe 5 is about right as the maximum on the ratchet is only 12. I used to adjust it so that I could just feel some slack at drum end of the cables but I have found that you need to tighten the cables just that little bit more, still checking that you have not tightened them too much and are causing the drums to bind. There are some cables about where the adjusting screw arrangement is too long and you need to cut a bit off or it will come into contact with the clevis pin before all the play is taken out of the cable. This is a pain if you do not realize it until you run out of adjustment.

You also state that some years ago the NSR brake stuck on but that you can’t remember what caused this problem. Most likely the inside of the rear brake hose that goes to rear axle had collapsed. When this happens there is sufficient hydraulic pressure when the foot brake is applied to force the brake fluid through the restriction and operate the brakes but when the pedal is released the hydraulic fluid should flow back into the master cylinder reservoir forced by the springs in the brake drums. My assumption is that the hydraulic fluid closest to the master cylinder flows back, followed by the hydraulic fluid from the OSR brake which is next in the brake line and is able to force its way through the rear brake hose. This now just leaves the NSR hydraulic fluid to flow back but by now the available pressure is too low to force its way through the restriction in the hydraulic hose. I have not come across a case where the OSR brake has stuck on and not the NSR.

For several reasons, the club can only sell to members, so the contact details are in the members' section which will currently not be visible to you.

For expediency, I'll PM my number to you; that way I can deal with your enrolment and take your order for a cylinder, rather than you having to join and wait for it to be processed prior to being able to place an order...