The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2021 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:23 pm
Posts: 253
Location: Aberdeen
Morning!

With some delightfully overcast but warm days here in Aberdeen, I decided to brake out the DA polisher and see if I can do something with the brushed on looking, runny and fence paint splattered paint so the new boot lid sticks out less (Only the last issue is my fault).

As per the pictures of the cars good side, I think it turned out a lot better than I could have hoped, especially if you stand 2 meters away. After washing the car I used Maguire's ultimate compound (Good but my, car care products are expensive!) with a aggressive pad then buff off with a microfiber cloth its was a good improvement. Next with a soft pad I used some Poor boys show glaze (never heard of it before but I won it in a raffle so worth a go). I went over the paint again, although I don't think it was a big improvement it seemed worth it, although I think skipping it wont make much difference.

Finally with Maguires GoldClass carauba plus wax to protect ait and being socially distanced the paint was a lot better, but I was realistic with the state of the paint and after polishing the chrome with Autoglum metal polish I was very happy with the good side, and even the bad side with its rusty rear arch and hole in the front fender!

Note to self – I think clay baring the paint first would have been a good idea……

Next on to the underside, as after the rear rebuild and disc conversion I wanted to protect the newly painted parts, the underside and the bits I just chucked hammarite direct to rust on without the best amount of prep!

I have been reading about Lanoguard for ages so bit the bullet and spent best part of £150 on their products ( I plan to do my other 2 none classics and my E46 and motorbike as well, sop bought a lot).
With the hose extension on the 2 littler bottle it was no problem at all and the spray nozzle did well from a fine mist to a jet, the only issue is it deffo has a sheepy smell, although it only lasted a few hours. It went on well, first it was quite glosses but after a day it died down and looks good, and on rush it has taken a lot of the redness out of it so it looks better on the floor pan. I only used about 1/3 of the bottle so plenty left to top up next year and probably do my Vauxhall Adam as well.

On refitting the trim (for the first time since my ownership since 2015 it has its full complement of trim) I put some of their Moto grease on the clips and in the channel to hopefully prevent corrosion. As it states a melting point of 450c and resistant to pressure washing hopefully it wont run, but we will see.

Finally, over the winter I am going to fit a E36 316i engine and autobox, so does anyone have a subframe they are willing to send to Aberdeen (some cash waiting!)?

Regards

Barry


Attachments:
SM - Lanoguard and extension.jpg
SM - Lanoguard and extension.jpg [ 447.05 KiB | Viewed 374 times ]
SM - 1500TC - rear underside - Lanoguard.jpg
SM - 1500TC - rear underside - Lanoguard.jpg [ 175.77 KiB | Viewed 374 times ]
SM - 1500TC - Front underside - Lanoguard.jpg
SM - 1500TC - Front underside - Lanoguard.jpg [ 218.67 KiB | Viewed 374 times ]
SM - 1500TC - Polished rear.jpg
SM - 1500TC - Polished rear.jpg [ 198.51 KiB | Viewed 374 times ]
SM - 1500TC - Polished.jpg
SM - 1500TC - Polished.jpg [ 235.47 KiB | Viewed 374 times ]

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Aberdeen

1975 Triumph 1500 TC various shades of blue
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 26, 2021 1:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
I'd go for an 1850 subframe as the best start point. A Sprint one will do too, but you'll probably end up cutting off the bulky and obstructive Sprint engine mounts that aren't ON the 1850 frame. Plus, Sprint frames are more in demand from people wanting to do Sprint conversions. Therefore priced accordingly.

When I did the Carledo, I started with the basic Toledo/generic OHV style of frame with the "long A" extension on the rear. Which I had to cut off and re-engineer to suit the manual box. When I did the Dolomega, I only had to do the front, the cranked and lowered Sprint frame rear section (which is shared by the 1850) missed everything on the much bulkier automatic box (4L30E) which that car is fitted with.

Some BMWs also carry the same GM designed 4L30E transmission, if yours does, have fun with the wiring, I did! Thinking about it, I can probably work up a simplified wiring diagram for that trans from my interactive computer one. If it's a ZF box i'm afraid you are on your own!

And if you need a forward extension on the front crossmember of the subframe, I can send you drawings of how I did mine. It means relocating the front ARB under the tie bars, but still works fine.

Steve

PS, Just noticed, your car doesn't HAVE a front ARB. This is a serious oversight on your part, get one pronto, preferably before the BMW motor is in and running! It will aid enormously in your future survival!

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 11:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:23 pm
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Location: Aberdeen
Hi Steve

Thanks for the info, I will see what subframe turns up, I would like to keep my original subframe with the engine (No idea why) and fit you then new engine on the subframe ready to go.

I am temped to make a adapter plate to use the original gearbox and see how long it lasts, as I think that would be cool but long term might not be the best idea, but if you do have a diagram I could work to that would be great.

As to front ARB, been meaning to fit as an upgrade, but with thew big MG wheels with new Avon tyres, AVO suspension I have not found the handling too bad, but have a bar, I just need to make up the brackets, interested to feel the improvement!

Regards

Barry


Attachments:
SM - BMW E36 Gearbox - in shed - Dataplate.jpg
SM - BMW E36 Gearbox - in shed - Dataplate.jpg [ 390.39 KiB | Viewed 335 times ]
SM - BMW E36 Engine - in shed - full.jpg
SM - BMW E36 Engine - in shed - full.jpg [ 350.93 KiB | Viewed 335 times ]

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Aberdeen

1975 Triumph 1500 TC various shades of blue
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2016 9:53 pm
Posts: 1699
Location: Harrow Middlesex
Is that the engine your thinking of putting in the Dolomite,be nice to see how it will fit

I have the same set of wheels for sale

Dave


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2021 8:29 pm 
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TDC Shropshire Area Organiser

Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2011 5:12 pm
Posts: 7013
Location: Highley, Shropshire
Definitely a 4L30, the twin trans sumps ar unmistakable. The model code is different to mine (surprise!) but it shares the legend GM Hydramatic, Strasbourg, France. Did you get the trans ECU with it? Or is that the engine ECU on top? And do you have the shift lever and if so, does it have sport and snow modes available? The wiring for the shifter is complex all on it's own with around 20 wires into it! I notice it says E36 on the photo, what year would that be? Though the 4L30 has been going since 1969, it has gone through several facelifts, mine also has cooler pipes running down the O/S that are not visible in your pic. However the smaller (than an Omega) Beamer may not have needed a cooler. Not sure my Sprint NEEDS one with only half the weight to haul around, but I had the facility so why not? Incidentally, I used the Saab 9-3 rad as on the Carledo but got a new auto one with trans oil cooler incorporated. Was on special offer at the time from Euro car parts, £58!

Mine has a loom for the trans attached to the engine assy that meets the body loom in a large round blue plug (46 tags IIRC) All the trans wiring runs through this one. I have 3 other plugs but they all carry engine stuff. If you have that blue plug or similar should be easy enough to generate a diagram thats legible without a computer to zoom in and out! Or at least a pin-out chart with colour codes and destinations. Which is how I worked mine.

Steve

_________________
'73 2 door Toledo with Vauxhall Carlton 2.0 8v engine (The Carledo)
'78 Sprint Auto with Vauxhall Omega 2.2 16v engine (The Dolomega)
'72 Triumph 1500FWD in Slate Grey, Now with RWD and Carledo powertrain!

Maverick Triumph, Servicing, Repairs, Electrical, Recomissioning, MOT prep, Trackerjack brake fitting service.
Apprentice served Triumph Specialist for 50 years. PM for more info or quotes.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2021 4:08 pm 
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Future Club member hopefully!
Future Club member hopefully!
User avatar

Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:23 pm
Posts: 253
Location: Aberdeen
Quote:
I'd go for an 1850 subframe as the best start point. A Sprint one will do too, but you'll probably end up cutting off the bulky and obstructive Sprint engine mounts that aren't ON the 1850 frame. Plus, Sprint frames are more in demand from people wanting to do Sprint conversions. Therefore priced accordingly.

When I did the Carledo, I started with the basic Toledo/generic OHV style of frame with the "long A" extension on the rear. Which I had to cut off and re-engineer to suit the manual box. When I did the Dolomega, I only had to do the front, the cranked and lowered Sprint frame rear section (which is shared by the 1850) missed everything on the much bulkier automatic box (4L30E) which that car is fitted with.

Some BMWs also carry the same GM designed 4L30E transmission, if yours does, have fun with the wiring, I did! Thinking about it, I can probably work up a simplified wiring diagram for that trans from my interactive computer one. If it's a ZF box i'm afraid you are on your own!

And if you need a forward extension on the front crossmember of the subframe, I can send you drawings of how I did mine. It means relocating the front ARB under the tie bars, but still works fine.

Steve

PS, Just noticed, your car doesn't HAVE a front ARB. This is a serious oversight on your part, get one pronto, preferably before the BMW motor is in and running! It will aid enormously in your future survival!
Hi Steve

As in my other posts I have followed your suggestions and fitted both a front an rear anti roll bar, and I must say, I though you were just being over dramatic but it has improved the handle beyond the point I though a family car from the 70s could handle!

Secondly I have got a 5 speed GETRAG manual gearbox and all the bits I am going to try and go manual once I get another subframe to mock everything out on.

Thanks again

Barry

_________________
Aberdeen

1975 Triumph 1500 TC various shades of blue


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