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 Post subject: Dolomite Quartz clock
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2021 8:44 pm 
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When I was looking at the Kienzle clock in the Sprint a while back, I wondered if I could get a quartz clock the right size and such, and ordered a couple from China. That order didn't exactly go very well, and one only just turned up this afternoon. When it arrived, it looked like this:

Image

So far, it looks like this:

Image

I do hope it keeps good time after all that.

Apart from the second hand colour, what I still have to do is fix it so it comes out from the front, so I can change the battery and adjust the time when its needed. I also need a screw-cap off some epoxy hardener or sim, to glue in the middle of he glass to hide that gold boss on the second hand.

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 3:44 pm 
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You have done better than me, I looked into this and couldn't find one that would fit.

In some ways what would be nice would be to gut the original case and fit a modern mechanism. I have a spare broken clock somewhere, might give it ago


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 5:32 pm 
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Quote:
You have done better than me, I looked into this and couldn't find one that would fit.

In some ways what would be nice would be to gut the original case and fit a modern mechanism. I have a spare broken clock somewhere, might give it ago

This one is 40mm diameter and might fit inside the original case:

https://www.clockspareparts.co.uk/produ ... -movement/

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1975 Sprint Man O/D in Honeysuckle Yellow
1971 Stag Auto White

Too many cars, too little time!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2021 6:45 pm 
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The problem I see with fitting the mechanism inside the original case is it will need to be removed in the original way if you want to adjust or when the battery dies. I don't think the one I have would stand using the thingy through the glass to set the time often.

The battery problem is solvable with a 1.5v supply off the 12v - 2 series diodes in parallel with the clock and forward biased through a resistor should do that. I'd start with a 10k (near to 1.2mA) and see if it runs, but that's a guess.

But even with the glovebox inner chopped to bits so the door stays on, changing the time after the battery's been disconnected will be a pain. If you have to take the glovebox door off, it's a real pain.

I'm thinking of a bayonet style method to fix the 65mm quartz clock in the hole from the front. Cos the prongs on a standard clock bare on the plastic ring (I think) it won't matter if I put a couple of slots in the inner flange to the hole in the dash - I can still go back to standard and it won't show. A two prong bayonet would be easiest - just glue a thick bar on the back of the clock and pack the side again the back of the dash to make it tight when turned a bit. Just need to put the slots in the flange in the right spot.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2021 2:40 pm 
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I seem to have solved the fixing the cheap Chinese quartz clock in the hole in the Dolomite dash more easily than I expected. However, seeing the price that they are going for on ebay I decided against stealing the chrome ring off the one I have that runs slow, no matter how the adjuster is screwed anti-clockwise.

The fixing just took two silicon rubber O rings. I've use a 4mm (54mm ID x 62mm OD) and a 3.5mm (55mm ID x 62mm OD), though the smaller one, which is against the back of the clock bezel is only acting as a spacer. So two 4mm ones might well do. These are less than a couple of quid each on ebay.

Image
Image

I also found something to use to look like the adjuster knob on the original clock. This is a bicycle Presta valve cover, with the base and top cut off and the very tip cut off the top and bunged in the hole cutting the top off left in the fluted bit. If I've glued that knob on well enough, it should help in pulling the clock out to change the time and battery. Otherwise it's one of them specialized tool jobs. Or use a screwdriver and lever it out.

I also painted the second hand with some mimosa yellow smooth Hammarite, and made some better hands from some 1mm white plastic scratch modeler's card - better than the ones made of photo paper anyway.

Image

It's a bit of a shame that the chrome-ish bezel got a bit scratched up while I played with the clock. But then these clocks are only about £3 each, so it's not a big issue.

The next task is how to illuminate it.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 1:43 pm 
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Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Then there are these Russian clocks. 12v powered Quartz with a front adjuster. So they won't have to come out often. And what looks like the right bulb holder too. Not a terrible price neither: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Luch-Quartz- ... SwVRNbcDyC

Image
Image

2.373" = 60.2488mm
2.552" = 64.8208mm

The hole in the Dolomite's dash being about 62mm and the recess in the front being about 65mm dia. So it should fit. Not sure how they mount, but it shouldn't be too difficult a job.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 7:19 pm 
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If you shop around, you can find OE Quartz clocks for the Dolomite; made by the same company, they have 'Quartz' written across the face instead of 'Kienzle'. There's also a variety with no script on the face at all.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 10:02 pm 
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Quote:
If you shop around, you can find OE Quartz clocks for the Dolomite; made by the same company, they have 'Quartz' written across the face instead of 'Kienzle'. There's also a variety with no script on the face at all.
Got a link/URL?

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 10:18 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
If you shop around, you can find OE Quartz clocks for the Dolomite; made by the same company, they have 'Quartz' written across the face instead of 'Kienzle'. There's also a variety with no script on the face at all.
Got a link/URL?

Graham
No, you'll have to wait for someone to offer one for sale, ebay or the like. I've checked my box of clocks and I don't currently have one.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2021 10:33 pm 
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Only ones I can find through Google images that are as described - on Worthpoint and such - seem to be 2" MGB ones. Only these Kienzle electro-mechanical ones and the Russian Luch Quartz ones seem to be 65mm - and the cheapo ones from China I've been playing with.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 12:05 pm 
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Here is a picture of the versions with ‘Kienzle’ script and none, both have been removed from Dolomites. Some Dolomites were fitted with a version which has ‘Quartz’ printed on the face instead, but I don’t have any of that style; I’m not making this up and will check the various cars in my yard next visit to see if I can photograph one in situ...
Image


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 12:48 pm 
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I wasn't suggesting you were making owt up, just trying to see what I'm looking for.

I take it the one pictured with only W Germany on the front is still electro-mechanical. I've found pictures of ones that look similar with Quartz on them. But the ones that give details seem to be 50/52mm ones from MGBs, etc. There's some 60mm ones from Wolsey's that look similar, but I don't know if they fit either.

I've ordered one of the new (presumably old stock) Luch clocks from Belarus to see what is't like and how it fits, etc.

There seems to be plenty of them about, and if they're like that old Rigonda stuff, they'll be solid kit, if a bit old fashioned.

My dad had a Rigonda valve radiogram (when the rest of us had music centres) that had AFC on the AM channels - there was a servo on the back of the tuning control. That still impresses me as a pragmatic solution to what was then a tricky problem - electronic control of the intermediate frequency generator in a superhet; especially one made of bottles.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2021 2:29 pm 
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Quote:
Here is a picture of the versions with ‘Kienzle’ script and none, both have been removed from Dolomites. Some Dolomites were fitted with a version which has ‘Quartz’ printed on the face instead, but I don’t have any of that style; I’m not making this up and will check the various cars in my yard next visit to see if I can photograph one in situ...
Image
Sent a PM Alun. Did you receive?

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2021 3:05 pm 
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Quote:
Quote:
Here is a picture of the versions with ‘Kienzle’ script and none, both have been removed from Dolomites. Some Dolomites were fitted with a version which has ‘Quartz’ printed on the face instead, but I don’t have any of that style; I’m not making this up and will check the various cars in my yard next visit to see if I can photograph one in situ...
Image
Sent a PM Alun. Did you receive?

Graham
Yes, but my reply seems to have completely disappeared!! :shrug:

I responded by saying I only have complete clocks at the moment, but plan to set up a 12v feed to test them all...this may provide some non-runners which can then be cannibalised...


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2021 7:40 pm 
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Ah, it wasn't Alexander Pope that said "To err is human: To screw-up completely takes a computer". Though I do like the quote I recently saw from Edgar Allen Poe's The System of Dr. Tarr and Prof. Fether: "Believe nothing you hear, and only one half that you see on the Internet".

Some of the non-runners can probably be fixed, given there's a fairly common fault in the supply link to the solenoid that's fixable with a drop of solder. I've also discovered that the ones that run too slow or too fast to be set from the adjustment on the back can, at least sometimes, be fixed by a couple of internal adjustments.

I also found that if you take them cheap Chinese quartz clocks apart the, escapement does exactly what it says on the tin.

However, both the fixes to the Kienzle clocks mean uncrimping the chrome ring from the flange on the steel body. And that's not easy to do without cracking the ring, or so I've found.

As to the 12V supply, I'm using one of the PSU-in-a-plug jobs for LED strips and a socket got off eBay, with two Lucar connectors crimped on the flying leads.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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