The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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 Post subject: Wheel Bearing Spacers
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 6:38 pm 
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Location: Caithness, Scotland
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHACKTUNE-TR ... 2749.l2649

I was given a heads up about this guy and, having made the purchase, I wish to share here.

You need to order a T2000 set and then message the seller (James) and state it is for a Dolomite.
He will then reduce the spacers to suit at no extra cost.

:D I paid £57 plus postage!



Ian.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 7:40 pm 
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
Quote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHACKTUNE-TR ... 2749.l2649

I was given a heads up about this guy and, having made the purchase, I wish to share here.

You need to order a T2000 set and then message the seller (James) and state it is for a Dolomite.
He will then reduce the spacers to suit at no extra cost.

:D I paid £57 plus postage!



Ian.
Ian

[b]Dont touch him with a barge poll[/b] :D yes he makes them but there wrong size,been there bought the Tee shirt :oops: :oops:

Dave


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 8:31 am 
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Shacktune has made them wrong?
What did he say? I am certain they are made specifically for Timkin bearings and others may need modifying. But he has a great reputation supplying quality parts that are often unavailable elsewhere. (decent condensers being one)
I have always been very happy wit parts he has supplied.

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Clive Senior
Brighton
Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 10:21 am 
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I don't see the point of paying all that money for a wheel bearing spacer when the front bearings are designed to have end float, this allows for expansion when hot.

malcolm


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 10:29 am 
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I don't see the point of paying all that money for a wheel bearing spacer when the front bearings are designed to have end float, this allows for expansion when hot.

malcolm
I share your doubts, I worry about attempts to modify original designs because I am not convinced that people actually understand what they are modifying or doing.

It all depends on whether the movement this product is designed to remove was meant to be there, instead of a design flaw that should be engineered out.

I am sure one of the more knowledgeable posters will be able to tell us which it is.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 11:03 am 
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Chris Witter uses a ShackTune kit
Has the ShackTune name on his setting up instructions

Was specifically designed for the Timken bearings other Bearings are a different size.

Got a kit coming for the Sprint
Bearing (no pun intended) in mind my Sprint uses Stag Hub.pins ETC.
I’ll check my bearings manufacture and replace if they are not Timkin.
Thanks Dave for the contact details..

UPDATE
Witters is a ShackTune kit.

_________________
2005 Mercedes C Class V6 Diesel Turbo Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020

Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now on hold.
Covid-19 restrictions.


Last edited by SprintV8 on Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:53 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 11:22 am 
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Location: High Wycombe
I also got a set from James. He appears to be a very knowledgeable engineer, but I’m not so I can’t comment on what he says is correct.

I tried using cheaper bearings from Robsport, which James subsequently said wouldn’t be exactly the same dimensions as the original Timken bearings.

So I got some Timken bearings from Chris Wittor. In the instructions from James, it says to torque the castle nut to 45 lbft. When I did this, I couldn’t turn the wheel at all.

I went back to James, who as always was very helpful. He told me that the felt seal supplied these days is much thicker than original OEM and it’s this additional thickness that’s causing the issue.

Next, I purchased a Morris Minor crank seal, which was recommended by somebody else who’d done this successfully. I had to cut that seal down to size to fit it in the metal seal carrier.

At this point, James told me that it should be set up without any grease and without the seal. Once set up correctly, then grease and add the felt seal.

I’m not giving up yet, but there’s certainly more to this than what’s in the supplied instructions !!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 11:27 am 
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Quote:
Quote:
I don't see the point of paying all that money for a wheel bearing spacer when the front bearings are designed to have end float, this allows for expansion when hot.

malcolm
I share your doubts, I worry about attempts to modify original designs because I am not convinced that people actually understand what they are modifying or doing.

It all depends on whether the movement this product is designed to remove was meant to be there, instead of a design flaw that should be engineered out.

I am sure one of the more knowledgeable posters will be able to tell us which it is.
They are used as OE on MGB's and many other cars. It does really not take the end float out, but locks te inner and outer races together so less movement and risk of wear to the stub axle. They are undoubtedly a good thing, and not used at the factory to save time/money.
There are many owners using them on a variety of Triumphs (including some fussy people) who are very pleased with them. These are cars used for long distance CT events, so a fair test.

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Clive Senior
Brighton
Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 12:06 pm 
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Location: Harrow Middlesex
The bearing spacer idea does work,i know other people who have used it on other car with no problems,the bering spacer kit,also stops the stub axle from flexing causing brake pad knock off

I bought my kit off ebay,the guy doesnt sell them for the Dolomite,he said he would have to modify a set fine,i think hes got the sizes wrong,they came with instructions and shims,when i fitted them they locked up,i spoke to him and he said your need Timkin Bearings fine bought them off him,the same thing happened they locked up,spoke to him again he said your stub axles have streched,i dont think both stub axles would have streched the same amount,its at this point i gave up on him

Theres a guy on Face Book who sells the bearing spacer kit,i think his work,but he wont tell you his sizes,not good for me,but i think i would proberly do the same thing in his shoes

As i have now gone over to use Stag hubs, these wont fit my setup any more,ive bought a set of Alli front hubs and new stub axle for the Stag,there well made,the stub axle is bigger they use the big bearing on the inside and outer,im going to get another set to use on the Dolomite

Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:56 am 
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Location: Sutton,Surrey.
FROM THE INSTRUCTIONS

Fit a 0.010" a 0.005" & a 0.003" shim, to make 0.018" shim pack.
Replace the bearing, D washer & nut..
Torque up to 35lbf.
You should now be able to detect play in the disc/hub by rocking the disc top & bottom.

_________________
2005 Mercedes C Class V6 Diesel Turbo Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020

Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now on hold.
Covid-19 restrictions.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 5:11 pm 
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Location: High Wycombe
Mine has :-

0.010 crossed out
2 x 0.005
0.003

And says 45lbft ?!

Wonder what’s right ?!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 5:42 pm 
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The instructions are the same between Chris Witter and ShackTune.
The only difference is the torque setting.
35lbsft or 45lbsft
I’ll be tempted to do them at 40Lbsft

_________________
2005 Mercedes C Class V6 Diesel Turbo Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020

Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now on hold.
Covid-19 restrictions.


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