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 Post subject: Clutch change questions.
PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 5:58 am 
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Terve! Jake from Finland here. I have the only roadgoing Toledo in the country. It's a 71 1500.
I have had a noticable slipping in the clutch when driving, I cant put my foot down any more than very gently without the engine revving, and its worse the higher gear you select. I assume this is the clutch. I've looked at the clutch fluid and the cylinders and they aren't leaking.
I have ordered a clutch from Rimmer bros, just the clutch plate and the cover with the fingers.
1. Do i need to replace any bearings while I am in there?
2. The clutch didn't come with a centring tool, any tips on how to get around without one?
Looking under the car i can see I will have to remove the transmission tunnel inside the car to get the gearbox off. There doesn't look to be any way of getting it out the bottom. I have never changed a clutch before,
3. how do I disconnect the clutch hydraulic system, can i do it without having to open and bleed the system?

If someone could give me a basic run down of the process i would be so grateful. I'm sure there are lots of things to take note of, but I couldn't find any model specific info on the web or youtube etc.
No rush, I have till April/May before the snow melts and i can drive her again!
This winter I hope to add a front anti roll, twin HS4s, a dolomite grill set up, plus some nice big Cibie Oscars and get my Lotus Europa wheels built up. Should be a fun little car.


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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 7:17 am 
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Hi Jake!
If you have the time and space and equipment I would recommend taking the engine and gearbox out as one unit from the top (bonnet off, radiator out etc.)

Not sure about the Toledo (I'm sure somebody will know...) you might be able to take the seats, dash and tunnel out and just pull the gearbox through the interior?

Which gearbox is it? My order of preference for centreing the clutch plate:
1) Best option - a spare gearbox input shaft
2) A 1/2" drive extension with tape wrapped around it to the right diameter
3) a generic plastic clutch centering tool

IF you can unfasten the slave cylinder from the gearbox/bellhousing casing then there's no need to bleed the hydraulic system - just make sure it's out of the way when you remove the gearbox! (Done this on the Spitfire a few times)

In terms of other jobs while you have the gearbox out - if it runs fine I wouldn't touch it, new bearings of the quality of the originals are hard to get and VERY costly.
I'd check the input / output seals though and replace IF they are leaking.
If you pull the engine+box together then checking the rear seal on the engine is also worthwhile.

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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 9:04 am 
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4) Your forefinger

I'd replace the release bearing whilst it is apart, even if it sounds OK currently, the strength of a new pressure plate can soon make an old one grumble...


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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 9:14 am 
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The gearbox will come out into the interior easily enough. Remove the seats, carpets, parcel shelf and centre tunnel. Then you can access everything, no need to even get underneath.


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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 4:12 pm 
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Great to get some useful answers so quickly, many thanks.
So it’s seats out,
Gear knob off
carpet up,
parcel shelf out,
trans tunnel out,
clutch cylinder off,
driveshaft off,
bell housing detached,
gearbox up into the interior,
old clutch out,
scuff up the flywheel a little,
Check seals for leaks
then reassemble?
Anything else?
Piece of cake!
Thanks guys
Jake


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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 4:29 pm 
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Quote:
Great to get some useful answers so quickly, many thanks.
So it’s seats out,
Gear knob off
carpet up,
parcel shelf out,
trans tunnel out,
clutch cylinder off,
driveshaft off,
bell housing detached,
gearbox up into the interior,
old clutch out,
scuff up the flywheel a little,
Check seals for leaks
then reassemble?
Anything else?
Piece of cake!
Thanks guys
Jake
To aid replacing the gearbox, I use 2 bolts, probably 3inches or so long. Cut the heads off, and make a screwdriver slot. Then screw them into the top of the engine block, so you can hang the bellhousing in place when refitting. The studs will allow you to move the box about without too much effort, and line it up.
NEVER use bolts to pull the gearbox right home, wiggle the box, rotate the output flange a bit (in gear) to help get it right home, but bolts could cause serious damage.

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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 4:53 pm 
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Thanks Clive that makes good sense. All the splines need to line up naturally. Any grease needed on the shaft?


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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 9:24 pm 
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No grease on splines, it attracts dirt (others may disagree). Find yourself a clutch alignment tool online there are adjustable types usually plastic that work well

Tony

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PostPosted:Thu Oct 28, 2021 9:25 pm 
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like this:

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/masterpr ... z5EALw_wcB

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PostPosted:Mon Nov 08, 2021 11:27 am 
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While you are there, I suggest inspect and maybe replacing the clutch release mechanism bearing, quite cheap?
Mine was showing play after 30k miles.
Roger Lowry


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PostPosted:Sat Nov 20, 2021 7:37 pm 
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The clutch that arrived from the uk was wrong, it was a 6.5” and should have been a 7.5”. Now I await the correct one from Rimmers but I also ordered ARB mounts which are back ordered so not much progress here plus I have the pain of paying import tax twice and return postage. It’s turning into quite an expensive clutch!


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PostPosted:Sat Nov 20, 2021 7:49 pm 
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You can order in NL.

For the replacement parts that is being send there's no import charges as long Rimmer Bros puts on the box replacement for a faulty part.

Jeroen

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PostPosted:Sat Nov 20, 2021 8:35 pm 
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Fitchetts sell remanufactured ARB mounts


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