The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

is this the name of the remote waterpumps you can fit to a sprinnt and for those that have fitted them are they reliable and worth the hassle.

just pondering on adding one to mass of parts iam building in the garage that one day i might do something with

That's them based down under.

And the Club do the Blanking plug's for the water pump.

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2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Back in my possession 22 September 2019.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
352 @ 28/11/2022
455Hrs @ 20/10/2023
480Hrs @ 14/03/2024
This is time taken at the Sprint not necessary time worked.

Working on a ratio of just 7Hrs a day not including driving to the Sprint.
That equals to 68 days that doesn’t include weekends.
Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now back on.

Craig Davis, makes you cooling system sing

Quite a popular mod these days

http://www.jabscoshop.com/item.asp?ls=R ... A9&id=3661

try this as another option, probably cheaper, we stock them and will beat the price stated... reliably informed by their ex sales mgr that these have been used effectively on race cars, and more commonly on boat central heating systems

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2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Back in my possession 22 September 2019.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
352 @ 28/11/2022
455Hrs @ 20/10/2023
480Hrs @ 14/03/2024
This is time taken at the Sprint not necessary time worked.

Working on a ratio of just 7Hrs a day not including driving to the Sprint.
That equals to 68 days that doesn’t include weekends.
Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now back on.

been checkin out merlin motorsport , oh my god!!!

see what you mean v8 20 to 80 litres a min , but then do you need the controller with it , seems a lot of money.

also found a ford site that trashed them on reliability ?? what happens if it does stop /sieze is it good bye head ??

also looking at fuel pumps, again ?????? what kind of output would i want with 45 dellortto's , str91 and ported and polished head and which size in/outlets suit a sprint???

rich

Mine's being fitted as a back up to the Standard TVR Water pump.

Meaning it will pump the coolant round untill the engine has cooled down after switching off.

_________________
2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Back in my possession 22 September 2019.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
352 @ 28/11/2022
455Hrs @ 20/10/2023
480Hrs @ 14/03/2024
This is time taken at the Sprint not necessary time worked.

Working on a ratio of just 7Hrs a day not including driving to the Sprint.
That equals to 68 days that doesn’t include weekends.
Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now back on.

im sure craig david or whatever his name is makes a well proven pump etc, but what I cant understand is that if a 'standard' dolly coolant capacity is about 5.5 litres, why anyone would want/need to be able to chuck the complete water capacity around it at a rate of around 20 times a minute ?! possibly slightly OTT me thinks, even with a wompin great tvr lump?

anyone know the flow rate of a standard 12 vane mechanical pump?

if you blow the coolant round too fast you may as well not have any coolant in it?!

surely its better to have the pump on continuously and let the thermostat, rad and ideally stat controlled leccy fan do their job?

if ewp is your thing then jabsco do 2 other larger circ pumps with adjustable flow rate, still around the £100 mark??

just trying to save folk a few £££££

maybe i should shut up and go away then...

It's a very good point. If the flow is too high, the water will be pushed through the radiator before it has had a chance to cool properly, which is no good at all.

I allready have the controller fixed inside the Sprint.
As I said it's just purely a back up for the standard engine water pump.

jabsco are suitable for up to 100c not much room for error?.

Is has the capacity to pump 80/110 Lts per minute if needed chances are it's never going to be at it's limit.

The only electric water pump's Ive seen even at race meeting's are Davies Crag (and your suposse to remove the thermostat even on road car's install's) so I couldn't comment on anything else.

Better to have to much than to little .

_________________
2009 Mini Clubman Cooper S Daily Driver.
1980 Dolomite Sprint with a touch of BLTS
Balanced Lightened and Tweaked 13B Rotary and SuperCharged.
Back in my possession 22 September 2019.
Rebuilding the Sprint time taken so far, 111Hrs@15/12/2020
212Hrs @31/12/2021
352 @ 28/11/2022
455Hrs @ 20/10/2023
480Hrs @ 14/03/2024
This is time taken at the Sprint not necessary time worked.

Working on a ratio of just 7Hrs a day not including driving to the Sprint.
That equals to 68 days that doesn’t include weekends.
Member TDC no 0471

Project 13B Sprint now back on.

But if the flow is too low, the coolant will have more 'chance' to pick up heat in the engine and will be hotter when it leaves the engine. Just what you don't want.

Until......

The head gets hotter, micro boiling occurs, creating an insulating layer of steam between metal and coolant, the heat is no longer transferred to the coolant and the downward spiral of overheating then takes place.

More flow will tend to increase turbulance in engine and sweep away this layer and will also increase turbulance and heat transfer to the rad tubes.

More flow will ALWAYS improve cooling.

6 vane pump will increase flow at high revs, 12 vane at low revs.
Electric pump can increase flow when you need it.
Too much antifreeze reduces heat transfer but increases boiling point.

Mark.

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Mark.

.....is only worth increasing if your radiator is up to the job.

Just thought i'd state the bleedin' obvious!

not true, sorry, if you mean in the context of making the water move faster. ask any half decent plumber/heating engineer with a brain. I've worked with this stuff every day for 6+ years.

if all the pipes and hoses and bores in the engine are made bigger and you make the volume of water moved bigger but keep it the same speed, your flow rate increases and this would be FAR more effective if it were possible. thats why household central heating is all 22mm tee'd off to 15mm pipe, and that shitty micro-bore stuff is ancient history. alas, not possible on an engine, it has to be built with bigger internal bores.

also, ref dave poth's comment about water going through the rad too quick, yep, true, but also if the water goes through the engine too quick it doesnt stay there long enough to absorb sufficient heat.

too many times ive had people on the phone complaining their radiators dont get warm but they've got 2KW + of heat going into the system, the pumps buzzing away and the water is flowing etc etc

ok, this is on space heating/central heating, but the principal is the same.

the solution is (nearly) ALWAYS to reduce the flow rate or usually fit a smaller circulation pump.

just my opinion but why try to make the system more complicated than necessary? 12 vane mechanical pump works a treat, and when its knackered you know about it as it crunches/rumbles, water leaks out if the seals are duff and the nominal running temp goes up gradually. chances are you can get home quite safely and look into the problem.

if ewp dies, or if its controller dies, you suddenly have NO circulation of water, and by the time you realise theres a problem you're well on the way to needing a strip down. then comes tracing the fault - is the pump faulty or is it the controller?

my solution - dont waste your money.

But the flow rate through the boiler and rad are the same which ever bore pipe you use, you just need a higher head pump to overcome the friction loss to push it through the smaller pipes! Then you get tracking issues and the system requires more balancing by the use of flow restrictors (valves to you), you need an even bigger pump and the system becomes noisy. But Microbore was cheaper to install, less material and less labour, bigger profit for your trade! Robbing cowboy barstuards.

Obviously you know the boiler requires a MINIMUM flow rate to restrict the temperature increase of water flowing through.

Faster coolant circulation increases the RATE OF TRANSFER OF HEAT BETWEEN ENGINE AND RAD this is what is important.

If the radiator isn't big enough (which a Sprint rad it isn't) and the lower tubes scale up (which xflow rads often do) that is another problem, but slowing the flow won't improve things.

'Water going through a rad too quickly' - utter ballcocks. how can rads not get warm with heated water flowing through them! How do you tell people that with a straight face?

Mark.

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Mark.

ok, not arguing, i know im right, theory is tried and tested.

find a hot radiator at home, put a cold towel on it, take it off 5 seconds later, see how hot the towel is. then put the towel back on, leave it there for 2 mins then take it off and see how hot it is... basic rules of heat transfer possibly??

i have a mate who lives on a boat with an alde gas boiler. the circ pump in the boiler failed so he thought he'd be a smart @rse and fit a domestic heating circ pump, his rads barely got warm, solution, fit a smaller slower pump, rads all got nice n toastie.

go spend £150+ on an ewp with massive flow rate that can chuck water round at warp speed, and requires a box of electronics to switch it on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off. whats the point? switching something on/off/on/off/on/off/on/off also causes it more stress than leaving it on continuously so even if it has a design life of 50000 hours it wont last that long. waste of time and money IMO, but thats all it is, my opinion, so do whatever floats your boat... case closed as far as im concerned.