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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 3:14 pm 
Does anyone have advice regarding replacement of the oil seals in the rear hubs of a Dolly Sprint?

My co-owner had a rear braking problem at a track day recently. He's not very well equipped mechanically so he's had the car taken to a mechanic local to him. The initial diagnosis is oil from the bach axle leaking into the hub assembly, causing the baraking problem. The guy mechanic is not a Triumph specialist so would appreciate a bit of advice before dismantling the hub.

Any particular things to look out for ?

Cheers

Jon


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 3:18 pm 
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This is quite a known problem, the usual remedy is to replace the (not very good) axle seals with the rear seal from the gearbox, if I am thinking of the correct bit of axle. Adam (2FAST4U) has done it recently, details are in his "Sprint to the Nurburgring" thread.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 5:41 pm 
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This usually happens when you start thrashing it round a track. I found this out for myself a few years ago.

The part. no. to replace the axle seals is 141756 which is actually from the front of the g/box.

It's not a difficult job & shouldn't take more than an hour per side by a mechanic.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 9:59 am 
thanks Mad Mart
I can see the part listed on Rimmer's website - haven't called them yet to see if they're available. Do you expect any problems getting hold of them?

Is any modification needed to fit the gearbox seal to the hub?

On a related topic - hub removal. On our TR4, it's a b*gger of a job - on the Sprint, is the special tool a necessity or will a general-purpose hub puller do the job ?

cheers and many thanks for the rapid responses...

Jon


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 1:22 pm 
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Rimmers have usually got these in stock and they're cheaper than the proper seals. No mods required, just a simple substitution.

You won't need to pull the hubs off to fit the axle seals but for future reference, you may get away with using a puller as long as it's the type that bolts to the wheel studs. The 3-legged pullers will break before the hub will come off, usually, unless it's been off recently. I usually use a hydraulic press.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 3:15 pm 
my mechanic buddy broke a 10 ton press trying to remove one of my hubs, a 100 ton press wouldnt move it, but after boppin it with a hammer it fell apart!

'shock' treatment is what you need to get hubs off :wink:


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 3:49 pm 
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Quote:
'shock' treatment is what you need to get hubs off
Aint that the truth! A good swing from a 5 ton fly-press ALWAYS does the trick. If anyone knows where I might buy a press such as this, please let me know, I'd like one for my workshop.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:39 pm 
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I may have to do this on my sprint.
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You won't need to pull the hubs off to fit the axle seals but for future reference, you may get away with using a puller as long as it's the type that bolts to the wheel studs.
From reading my manual, I thought you did have to remove the hubs to replace the seals?? Is the puller used to pull the whole half shaft assembly including hub out of the axle??

There are two sets of seals right? Inners and outers. Which ones do you normally have to change to stop leaks on to the brake shoes? Could somebody post a sort of step by step guide on how to change these seals. I'm a bit confused :?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 5:50 pm 
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The puller is to remove the hub from the shaft, you can pull the shaft out of the axle with two fingers.

It's the inner seal that leaks on track. Can't remember if there is an outer one on a sprint or not.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 8:42 pm 
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There are 2 seals....If axle oil is getting to your brakes you need to do them both so you will need the pres to get the hub off.
Its a churchill tool originally and there is a guy who makes them for spits who sells on ebay occasionally for about fifty quid.
It ten needs a quick machine to clear the sprint wheel spigot but its no big deal.

You wont get the hub off in one piece without the churchilll type puller unless its been off before.

Jonners

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 9:46 pm 
I didnt need to replace both seals, 4 bolts out the back of the plate half shaft comes out with hub, chisel old seal in half, pull it out, fit in new seal = no more oil on rear shoes :D


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 9:08 am 
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Adam said:
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I didnt need to replace both seals, 4 bolts out the back of the plate half shaft comes out with hub, chisel old seal in half, pull it out, fit in new seal = no more oil on rear shoes
So which seals were those then Adam. Inner seal or outer. Were these the seals you replaced with the gearbox one?

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 11:40 am 
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The seals you need to replace are the inner axle seals original part no. 58800 but use part no. 141756 (don't usually get any trouble with the outer ones once the inners are replaced).

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 3:43 pm 
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Thanks Mart, that's made it a whole lot clearer. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 10, 2017 1:55 pm 
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I don't believe this, surely you need to take 58773 off and undo bolts 112653 etc and pull the half shaft out before you can get at the inner oil seal?

I resurrect this thread as I have this very problem and have ordered new seals and will have a go at it this weekend!

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