The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:59 pm 
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OK not for a Dolomite but I've managed to break 2 studs removing the 1961 original exhaust off of the Corvair. I can probably get in to drill them out but wonder if there's another way? Worth noting at this point that I don't have a welder but I do have a butane torch.

Seen some people remove them using vice grips and candle wax but no idea if this will actually work. My general thoughts were that stud extractors weren't very good but maybe I am wrong?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:43 pm 
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stud-Extract ... SwpDdVeCIE

I have had good success with these, so long as there is some stud left?

Tony.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:22 am 
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Heat, some hammering on top of the stud and then try turning with a vicegrip gives the best results. But, when it snaps again the stud can be a bit hardened by the heat and more difficult to drill.

Jeroen

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:16 am 
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Quote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stud-Extract ... SwpDdVeCIE

I have had good success with these, so long as there is some stud left?

Tony.
Concentric stud extractors; I have a similar set but longer and imperial sized by Sykes-Pickavant; used to good effect removing 1850 studs, though heat and a good whack down the shaft of the stud was also used prior. Be aware though, slightly off concentric axis to the stud and you'll just shear off the top. A stubborn stud will have its threads destroyed using these tools though, so have a replacement to hand to avoid delays.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 9:37 am 
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Thanks for the tips. Ideally I'd like to avoid drilling it so I'll try some heat and a hammer. Might need to get some decent vice grips or water pump pliers though as I think mine came from a pound shop. I think I'll aim to leave the two remaining studs in place rather than risk damaging them removing them. I have some new brass nuts to use but I'll need to find some studs.

I'll have to share a picture of the old exhaust later, I think it would have completely given up soon and I'm fairly convinced the silencer has just disintegrated inside. I think in hindsight the advisory on the MOT should have been actioned with a new exhaust then someone else would have had to deal with broken studs!

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1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 12:59 pm 
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If you still got enough stud protruding and access to do so, then weld a nut to the stud. More often than not the heat from the welder and plenty of plus gas will be enough to break the seal. You will then easily spin the stud out using a spanner.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:04 pm 
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I got some of these at one of the Restoration Shows a couple of years back. I've just had a look for them, but I've obviously put them in a safe place :-(
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/192087344224?c ... 912&crdt=0

Yes they are left handed " slow spiral " drills that you use in turn and the idea is that if you get it central, the heat of drilling and the unscrewing action winds out the thin-wall remains of the broken stud.
And you do need a drill with a reversing setting.
Tony.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 8:49 pm 
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These are going to be a bugger to remove. Wonder if anyone local has got a proper acetylene torch?

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1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 10:56 pm 
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Is there enough thread left to 'double-nut' them?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 7:44 am 
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Yes there's plenty of thread left fortunately, I ran out of time last night so I've dosed it with more plus gas and will do so later on. It can soak away for a few days whilst I'm away.

Whoever thought studs on manifolds were a good idea?

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1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2018 6:37 pm 
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These are going to be a bugger to remove. Wonder if anyone local has got a proper acetylene torch?
you could try a plumber's blow lamp,tool station sell them

Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 29, 2018 11:46 am 
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My 2 options: Weld a nut to the stud bigger nut for more purchase if possible. After the weld has cooled it will have transfered heat into the stud and may start breaking free with careful toing and froing. Dont get greedy once it moves, back and forth ans spray plenty of lube up there until it feels like its loose enough to unwind all the way.
Option 2 is cut it flush if it hasnt already snapped and drill into it until a TORX bit can be hammered into it. The lack of metal in the middle will take some pressure off the stud. Has worked many times for me this method even on stainless studs used on turbo manifolds/heads.

Tony

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