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Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.
http://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=32222
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Author:  Toledo Man [ Thu Feb 16, 2017 7:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullit prove.

This is how Autopal headlights compare to the original sealed beam units.
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Given the scarcity and cost of sealed beam units, the halogen conversion is the way to go and as other have already said, relays are a must. Being an 1850, I was able to situate my relays next to the battery and break into the loom to keep my wiring as short as possible.
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Author:  Carledo [ Thu Feb 16, 2017 8:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullit prove.

Flat or curved lens lights is really just an aesthetic decision. If you are building a concours contender then the curved lenses are mandatory to keep it looking original (REALLY serious concours types will pay through the nose for original spec sealed beam units)
But if you are more into driving than polishing (like me) then I see no problem with flat fronts. I could even be tempted into some "angel eyes" if they came up at the right money!

On another note, I'm pleased to meet another 120 enthusiast! I ran a LHD French export model 1964 122S Estate from 1982-2011 It shared so many of my life's seminal moments including bringing both my kids home from the hospital after they were born. I've regretted selling it since the day it went.

Steve

Author:  Brynk [ Fri Feb 17, 2017 7:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullit prove.

I agree with you, Steve. I'm driven towards driving and Hot Rodding.
I'm a "Paint it back, and put it back" guy.
I like the feel of an old car, and I want it to be up to scratch and modern traffic.

I like them to fast and reliable, and I most confess that my Volvo, is very much up to scratch and handling is good. I'm just a little bummed over the oil pressure.

And Despite I increased the Power from 82ish HP to 125ish HP, I've increased drivability and and reliability a lot. And Modern bearings, modern oil, modern seals, Better cam (they last longer then 60s quality), new 3 Row Radiator and electric fan real make it a good driver. And The Dellortos I run really opened up the power band on that puppy.
And a good honest 1HP per CUI makes it a good car to drive. So I doubt I will do much performance update to the Dolly , but I will do a lot of reliability issues.
I would love to take it to Schweitzerland and visit the previous owner, at some point.
And being my daughter is so much in to cars, I bet she will love it too.



Image

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I know it's O/T, but I hope it passes.

Author:  GTS290N [ Fri Feb 17, 2017 8:33 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.

Just a reminder that Rimmer have the inner and outer sealed beam units for £18 each inc vat RHD for those in the UK. Don't know what they look like.....

Author:  SprintMWU773V [ Fri Feb 17, 2017 8:57 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.

My Mazda being a Japanese market car came with sealed beams but 7 inch ones. I swapped those out to halogens, they are Autopal, very cheap. Actually I wasn't expecting them to be very good as I wasn't that impressed with the Indian quality but actually they have been proven to be much better than the sealed beams. I actually fitted ones with the sidelight built as they were easier to find it but I didn't fit bulbs. I think my conclusion that anything is better than sealed beams, though I miss the colour of the light.

Author:  Brynk [ Sat Feb 18, 2017 3:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.

I run Luminition on my Volvo, and really like it.
I run optitronic series. Is the magnetic series better?

Is it recommendable to have the Sprint alloys waterjetted/waterpolished/water-mediablasted?

Author:  Brynk [ Sat Mar 04, 2017 10:43 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.

Is someone taking the 5th?

Any fore or against Lumenition?

Author:  soe8m [ Sun Mar 05, 2017 2:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.

The luminition is one of the best contact point replacement kits available. I used to use the optronics with the seperate module. The difference i thought between the magnetronic and optronic is the lenght of the contact/dwell time. The magnetronic does switch the time the magnet is above the switch. So more revs less opening time. The optronic sensor determines only the start of the spark. The lenght of the opening time is determined by the module and not the actual time the sensor in the distributor is "open".

Both have about the same quality. Last week i replaced a magnetronic of a friends Vitesse what we did fit 18 years ago when he bought the car.
Used with the right coils and resistors when needed they last very long.

But for timing all depends on the condition of the mechanicals of the distributor where the kit is in. Worn centrifugals and leaky vacuums are not repaired or improved by a points replacement kit like the lumenition or others.

That's why i use only 123 the last few years, also in my Volvo. And when needed the fully programmable while driving on LPG to suit the curve to the engine for the best power and economy.

Jeroen

Author:  Brynk [ Sun Mar 05, 2017 4:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.

Why ain't there a thumbs up feature on every post.

Because there is some good info on here!

Thanks!

Author:  SprintMWU773V [ Mon Mar 06, 2017 10:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Reliabilty issue, or how to make a Dolly bullet proof.

Can you get a 123 for a Sprint? It would be the answer. We sell CSI at work but I know they don't do an off the shelf one for Sprint but maybe they can build one inside your existing distributor. CSI are Dutch like 123, good quality and very programmable.

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