NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto

[Toledo Man]

Another job crossed off the list:

There was a grinding noise whenever I pressed the brake pedal so I knew straight away that the pads were seriously worn. I ordered some from my usual motor factor but it could be the end of the week before they arrive and they needed replacing yesterday so I tried other places. The first place I tried this morning had them on the shelf but they cost me £15 but as I was in need I coughed up and bought them.

Does anybody know anything about this make of pad? I'm sure they're a decent brand.

Once I'd jacked up, put axles stands underneath and removed the wheels this is what the pads looked like:


Replacing the pads is quite easy. The only problem being the pads were a bit difficult to remove. A pair of mole grips and my trusty lump hammer soon remidied that. Once I'd levered the pistons back into the caliper I applied the brakes and pushed the pistons back again and hopefully, this should've freed them all. The nearside pads were the most worn and the pic below shows them next to the new ones:

Result, no more grinding or cringing when I press the brake pedal and hopefully, they should last a bit longer this time.

[Toledo Man]

New HT leads fitted as No. 2 had packed up (only diagnosed it yesterday). Dizzy cap and rotor arm are on order because my trusty local motor factor didn't have them on the shelf. they'll be ready tomorrow. I'm ending up doing a full service among the other stuff on my list. I'll be giving Chris Witor a call on Friday to order the tie bar bushes and steering column bulkhead bush.

[bifold]

I think prehaps you should have removed the pistons to inspect,clean & dress and fit new Seals to the Caliper, just a thought,you hammer sounds a cracking tool

[Toledo Man]

I don't think that I needed to do that. I just pushed them in a couple of times and only one of the pads had worn right down. I need to act on the warning signs a bit more quickly in the future. I've got some more pads on order from my trusty local motor factor so I don't have to wait for them come the next pad change.

Moving swiftly on, I fitted more new ignition parts. A rotor arm, dizzy cap, condensor and spark plugs were fitted. I ended up removing the dizzy to fit the condesnor as these Delco dizzys on the 1850s are a pain in the arse to work on. When I put the dizzy back on the car wouldn't start. I tried refitting the old parts to no avail so I swapped them back (I left the old condensor as that is the biggest PITA). Anyway, to cut a long story short I realized that I'd refitted the dizzy in slightly the wrong position so once that was rectified and the stattic timing set the car fired up. After setting the timing with the strobe light I hooked it up to each of the leads and they were all working so the engine was running on all 4 cylinders. (I was having trouble with No. 2) A road test proved that the car was indeed running better than before. I was able to overtake a couple of cars (not at once!) and the 2nd car I overtook was a Toyota on an 09 plate and left it for dead. The driver only caught up with me as my journey took me through on a 50mph road with flashing moneyboxes, some country roads a council estate with speed bumps. Whe needs a Sprint? An 1850 (even an auto) in standard set up that is in good order is just as good. Certainly the next best thing!

After today's grief I'm seriously thinking about investing in electonic ignition. Another job to add to the list.

[bifold]

Sounds like your having fun ,
Now you have had the 65 box on for a while hows it compare to the 35 box,quicker,better changes?
As to 1850 autos they are cracking cars,better than a 4 speed,a 4speed with overdrive? a hard choice,Tipex was invented for dizzy removal,pays to mark the starting point

[JPB]

Auto has to be a wise option in an 1850, overall gearing is higher than the o/d manual car, thanks to the unique (apart from the Ital 2 litre auto) 3.27:1 diff, yet the acceleration is slightly quicker in the 50-70mph range in top (3rd), fuel economy actually improves at a steady 60 and in town; and BW 65s don't (off to touch some wood, brb) break when you want to get a bit of a move on.

[Toledo Man]

Refitting the dizzy in the slightly wrong position was just a schoolboy error. I don't bother with marking it because I can set it all up. Isn't it great when you've got a decent timing light? I don't really notice any difference with the BW65 apart from not having to worry about it leaking. It helps having the car running perfectly now the ignition side is sorted. I've ordered the tie bar and steering column bulkhead bushes from Chris Witor which came to just over £20 including the postage. That should tighten up the front suspension and stop the knocking coming from there.

[Jon Tilson]

Thats very interesting. My usage patter i snow a bit different with much short town commuting. I'm getting about 300 miles between refills so not much over 30 then.
Seesm like the strombergs could be better than I thought.
I always used to get nearly 40 out of NBH when it was younger and on strombergs 20 odd years ago...
ERO (TR7 engine on HS6's) rarely goes below 35 though...
Yours is a well fit car then...
Jonners

[Toledo Man]

The bushes I'd ordered from Chris Witor came in the post today. I got the tie bar bushes fitted and it was easier than I'd expected. I'll go through the way I did it:

Remove the R clip at the threaded end.
Undo the 11/16" nut.
Undo the anti roll bar link nut (1/2")
Remove the bolt at the balljoint end (nut is 11/16" and the bolt head is 5/8")
Move the vertical link back enough to remove the tie bar.
Remove the knackered rubber bushes. (don't forget the washers)
When fitting the first bush make sure the lip is facing towards the threaded end. If it won't go all the way down refit the 11/16" nut and screw it on to move the bush down.
When reftting the tie bar get the anti roll bar link in when you fit the threaded end of the tie bar through the subframe. The link won't go all the way through but don't worry about that yet.
Fit the other bush onto the tie bar.
Refit the bolt at the balljoint end and tighten the nut.
Jack up the vertical link to compress the suspension. This has the same effect as having the car on the ground.
The anti roll bar link nut can now be refitted as the thread should've come all the way through the tie bar.
Refit the washer and nut on the threaded end. This should be easy with the suspension compressed.
Refit the R clip.
Job done! It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. It helps to Plus Gas the nuts beforehand to make them easier to undo.

I've still got the steering column bulkhead bush to fit. The worst part will be separating the coupling from the column. It was a pig of a job on Snowdrop (I ended up undoing the rack bolts and moving the rack forward) but I believe that it is easier with an adjustable steering column. Can anybody confirm this?

On the subject of fuel consumption I'm sure that it has improved just lately. I've clocked up 250 miles since I last filled up and the fuel light has only just come on. I'll be going down to Jod's to pick up some more parts so that'll be a good test for fuel economy.

[JPB]

250 miles on eight gallons then, near as makes no odds, so that's a shade over 31mpg, assuming that your tank sender is calibrated in the same way as most seem to be, I.E. warning shows at around 4 Gallons remaining.

[Toledo Man]

I'll get a more accurate figure when I fill up. If it takes less that £40 worth (petrol's about 93.9p a litre round here) then I'll be doing more than 26 miles to the gallon which isn't too bad for "round town" driving. For 31mpg it'll only cost me just over £34 to fill up. Fingers crossed when I fill up tomorrow or Thursday. I've also been trying to keep the revs down to about 2000 rpm which I'm sure helps with the economy.

[Toledo Man]

I filled up this morning at my local Sainsbury's. (where I work nights) It took 48.46 litres which at 94.8p a litre (it has gone up AGAIN!) worked out at £45.99. That equates to approx 10.67 gallons and I'd done 258.9 miles since the last fill up. Dividing the total mileage by the amount I put in I get just over 24 miles to the gallon which isn't too bad. I'm sure this would improve on a long run.

[Toledo Man]

I've now fitted the steering column bulkhead bush. The only problem was getting the column back into the coupling but with the help of my next door neighbour we got it done and it has improved the steering. Another job crossed off the list and one thing less to fail the MoT on. At this rate Brown should pass with flying colours. The car's better than it was back then.

[JPB]

In that post above, about economy, did you really mean 2,000rpm Dave?
That would equate to no more than 40mph in third. I try to stay below 3,000, which gives a maximum of 60mph, and find that that is the most efficient way to stretch those expensive litres of fuel without holding up other traffic.

[Toledo Man]

John, I suppose I'd be a liar if I said I DIDN'T go above 2000 rpm. (I only said that I was trying not to) I certainly haven't gone above 3000 rpm lately and I'm no Sunday driver. It certainly makes the fuel last.