The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Is it possible to separate the CV joints on the early props?

Wanted to fit a new centre bearing, but cannot fathom how to separate the two halves.

Am I just better off getting it done somewhere, and if so where is best? Or should I revert to the UJ only type. Simpler I guess. Anyone got a spare?

Helpfully, none of the manuals show the CV joint anywhere only the Hardy Spicer UJ's.

I've one of each type in stock, carrier condition unknown. Can't look before Saturday.

Beer money.

Tin

_________________
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.

Right its CV joint for the sprint and spiders for the 1850 down.

You need a specialist to seperate the CV joint IIRC cos you have to cut the collar off that holds the boot. I did this with a hacksaw about 10 years ago and the prop is still in 2 bits in my shed...I found another one.

Propshaft Services in Feltham do them...sure you something similar in Guildford area...

Jonners

_________________
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.

Yes.

It was a long time ago but, I have successfully replaced a Sprint centre mounting. You only need to separate the CV joint next to the mounting.
Indeed the BL manual does not explain how to do this. However someone in the Dolomite Sprint Register wrote an article explaining how to do the job so I followed his instructions. I still have that article somewhere (in fact I have every copy of DSR news....quite sad really ).
If nobody posts the answer I'll look for the article on Wednesday and let you know then.......


Wasn't there a thread on this very subject last year?

_________________
TDC Forum moderator
PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.

I did mine;
scribe mark along prop, hold front half of prop in vice, smack cv part of prop with copper hammer several times untill it pops out & seperates, replace centre bearing, align scribe marks, tap cv joint back together. Easy !

Does anyone know of a source for a new rubber boot for the CV joint?

Front wheel drive CV boots can't handle the speed (wheel speed is only around 25% of tailshaft speed) and everyone that we have tried has exploded once road speed exceeds around 160KPH.

Mark

Thanks Roy, will give that a try tomorrow.

I want to keep the original item if at all possible.

I did mine a few weeks ago. Pretty easy to be honest.

Start by working an old screwdriver under the crimped down collar. Lever the collar over the snap ring.

Pull it back....a greasy world lives inside the boot. Feel around just inside the lip and you'll find another snap ring hiding in the grease. Prize this out.

Now the male part will come out but have a bucket ready to catch the balls!!

Remove balls and cage. The male spline is held on by a snap ring (bit like a car CV joint). The unorthadox removal method is to whack this off the snap ring...no other method works and this is the right way.

Now you can change the centre bearing and refit in reverse order. I cleaned mine out with rags and carb cleaner. It was repacked with graphite grease and the old CV boot was in perfect condition. As I change the UJ's as well, I took the propshaft to Dave MAC in Coventry who balanced it for £30.

Get stuck, just give me a shout.
Tom

_________________
Finished with Main Engines and Steering....

1981 1500 HL man/od
1972 Series 3 Land Rover diesel
2007 MX5 Sport
2010 Citroen C1
1993 Gas Gas GT32

Excellent. Will be giving this a go tomorrow.

Thanks for the pics

Dave Mac Props in Coventry have recently made me a new custom prop for the quicksprint using a ford sourced 'pop' joint which closely resembled the OE and a new centre carrier which they have had remanufactured to OE spec.