I have rallied my dolomite and whilst leading the class split the sump close to the drain plug and had to retire . Hence I wish to fit a sump guard. Is there a works design?
I have looked under a few dolomites in the paddock and most seem to be home made, I have also seen the picture on another thread that looks a possibility.
Are there any commercial suppliers?
Can anyone help with a sketch with dimensions, materials and how you have fastened it on to the subframe? just bolting it across the subframe would appear to give very little clearance.
Hello, you have to make one of your own. On one car i did make one of 5mm alu. I did fix the guard on the subframe by the steeringrack crossmember and on the front i welded two brackets to fix it. It is only fitted on the subframe and does have a round shape to "match and seal" with the frontvalance. I did put a picture of the works type and in the BL parts catalogues are sumpguards too because it was an original option/accesoire but these were different than the works type. For safety I mount the engine a bit higher in the car so the sump does not get under the crossmembers. You can also weld an reinforcment plate on the sump.
Jeroen how do we think the works one fits then does that lip at the front slide into a ledge welded to th frame then, like a hinge?
OMX check out my link on preparing NFX for rallying, i fitted mine to a bracket i welded across the back of the subframe and attatched a bigger peice of angle on the front of the subframe with bolts to give it a bit of float to take the shock better.It not loose or owt just bolts are a bit more flexible than weld.Mnes made out of 4mm checkerplate and bent to reinforce the front valance and i drilled some air flow holes in just to help the fan out.if you want some measurments its off at the mo.
John
Thanks for the picture, although I think this is above my simple skills to construct, especially if it is aluminium as it appears to have brackets welded to it and i have never tried welding aluminium. I think that I will have to go with a simpler design such as the one John has pictured.
I want to follow up with you the concept of mounting the engine higher. How was this achieved? packing out the engine mounts or different brackets? does this affect / give problems with the aligment with the rest of the drive train? How much height did you gain?
NFXdynomite wrote:Jeroen how do we think the works one fits then does that lip at the front slide into a ledge welded to th frame then, like a hinge?
I don't know but i think not at the front. I think that between the lips the front valance is. On the Dutch ST works sprint, the only st group 2 LHD, has an extra crossmember under the radiator. It looked like a 2500 front crossmember. It is bolted under the two chassislegs. Maybe it is attached to that piece.
OMXdolly wrote:
Thanks for the picture, although I think this is above my simple skills to construct, especially if it is aluminium as it appears to have brackets welded to it and i have never tried welding aluminium. I think that I will have to go with a simpler design such as the one John has pictured.
I want to follow up with you the concept of mounting the engine higher. How was this achieved? packing out the engine mounts or different brackets? does this affect / give problems with the aligment with the rest of the drive train? How much height did you gain?
David
Hello, i did not weld on the sump guard but welded two brackets on the suframe to bolt the sumpguard on.
I lifted the enige a bit so the sump is a bit higher than the subframecrossmembers. I have made another engine mounting than std.
The RH bracket that is welded on the subframe to mount the engine mounting I grinded off and welded a modified on it. It still accepts the std sprint mounting but has another angle. It now looks like the 1850 setup. The engine is more steady in the car and the oilpump does not hit the steeringrack anymore. The standard horizontal mounting does not work and the engine has too much up and down movement. With two angular mountings the engine cannot move down easily.
You have to make your own engingebracket with the same angle and with this bracket you can choose your enginehight in the car. I did not notice any difference in roadholding and cornering with the engineweight a few centimeters higher.
hi jeroen, that engine mount sounds genius any chance you could show us a pic?
And the cross member is a good idea too ive made a bracket from the rad to the engine to stop the rad flexing, might have to look for a scrap 2000/2500
The guard on this car is more a parkinglane guard for my parents parking. The first thing they did when I moved out 12 years ago was having a new parkinglane and a sign no GB cars parking.
This is more a splash guard. Its an alu 3mm thick and just bolted to the front valance and subframe. The front is more rigid.
On the other pictures you can see the modified bracket on the subframe and the engine bracket. That bracket determines how high the engine is in the car.
On the other picture you can see the sump is higher than the subframe and the sump will not be hit easily.
Its easy to make mate just get hold of some checker plate or alloy plate(councils put it over doors of derilict buildings ) get it cut to roughly the size of your subframe and bend it a little at the front, i clamped mine to a large block of wood and went for it with a sledge hammer. Im sure you could manage it
NFXdynomite wrote:Its easy to make mate just get hold of some checker plate or alloy plate(councils put it over doors of derilict buildings ) get it cut to roughly the size of your subframe and bend it a little at the front, i clamped mine to a large block of wood and went for it with a sledge hammer. Im sure you could manage it
If you can bend it with a sledge hammer, it's not strong enough
. Hence I wish to fit a sump guard. Is there a works design?
) get it cut to roughly the size of your subframe and bend it a little at the front, i clamped mine to a large block of wood and went for it with a sledge hammer. Im sure you could manage it 
