Triumph 1500 fwd clutch problems

[hogiron]

Hello, My daughter has recently purchased a 1973 Triumph 1500 FWD, The body/paint is completely original and rust free. Unfortunately however after a few miles of driving the clutch has failed, 'the tube from the gearbox that the clutch release bearing slides on came out of the g-box' this resulted in the bearing,tube & pressure plate being destroyed. Luckily this model has the exposed clutch between engine and box making thing accessible 'but no less a head ache!

I was advised to fit it with a 1500 dolomite/spitfire pressure plate as the original seems unobtainable, After comparing all dimensions I have assembled and ran the car along with a new clutch plate and release bearing, but am baffled. Can anybody advise me weather the clutch release bearing should be in continual contact with the pressure plate ie continually spinning? It seems that there is constant pressure from the clutch slave cylinder which causes this to happen. This causes the bearing to spin on the tube which is showing signs of wear after 10 minutes of running 'not good'!

Also ' I know this is a long shot' but does anybody have information about how far the release bearing guide tube extends from the gearbox, just hoping you may have one on the floor in your garage that you could measure!!.

Any help or advice with this problem would be very much appreciated,
Thanks

[Jon Tilson]

Not sure about the fwd versions but on other dollies the release bearing only spins when the cluthc is under load.
Otherwise it isnt...
I cant imagine the fwd would be different in this respect.

Jonners

[DavePoth]

I looked here first:

http://www.canleyclassics.com/catalogue ... cale=small

Driven plate is available here, but not the pressure plate. A look on the Rimmer Bros website shows that the pressure plate is GCC 170, and not available, although the correct release bearing GRB208 is in stock:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RT1225

However, the marvellous Mick Dolphin, who is brilliant for getting hold of slightly difficult things, should have one in stock according to his stock list. It's worth giving him a ring as he's a lovely bloke and if anyone has got one he will. He also has the release bearing.

http://www.mickdolphin.co.uk

Just in case it's not the clutch bits causing the issue, maybe someone who knows a bit about the FWDs (I'm no expert at all) might be available to take a look? which part of the country are you in?

[1300dolly]

There is a adjustment bar bolted on the side of the gearbox on the passengers side.opposite the slave cylider,it is attached to the clutch fork, moving this towards the front of the car will give the clearence you need (hopefully) the previous owner may have adjusted this to take up the slip on the clutch as it wore.
Hope that made sense?

By 'tube' do you mean input shaft, the shaft that the bearing and pressure plate go onto? the gearbox end plate shoud have an extra bit welded inside it to stop the shaft moving, the 1300fwd end plate was slightly different.

Clutch kits are still avalible from club stoock, Mike Dolphin may have one if not he is very helpfull and knowledgab;e so will be able to point you in the right direction, failing that they are often on Ebay.

Welcome to the forum, whaer abouts do you live, there maybe a fwd knowledgable person nearby?

[Jod Clark]

Just to note, Mick Dolphin is about 3 miles from Bird's house. Happy to collect bits from there, especially stuff that is too heavy to post. They can then enter the Dolomite distribution network from somewhere a bit closer to civilisation. I also know of a bloke in the same locality who has vast stocks of NOS brake shoes and pads for most classics, with the magical braking ingredient of yesteryeAr.

[hogiron]

Thank you all very much for your reply's so far to my post.
Jon, I would imagine this to be true also and am baffled as to why is does, it's almost as though there should be a spring that draws the bearing away from the pressure plate after pressing clutch! The spring inside the slave cylinder seems particularly strong which is causing the constant load between bearing and pressure plat. However the cone shaped spring appears to be correct when comparing to exploded diagrams of cylinder!.

Dave, Thank you for the useful links they are very much appreciated. Also as you suggest it would be great to find somebody local with experience of this type of car, We live in Frome Somerset if anybody Knows of any contacts down this way!!!. Also my Daughter would be keen on getting involved in Classic Triumph Meets and rally's 'If and when we get it sorted'!.

1300dolly
Thank you for reply & for the welcome to the forum, I have followed the instruction from the workshop manual using the side adjustment plate as you have suggested.
Retracting the slave cylinder & placing a 3mm plate between bearing and pressure plate followed by slackening bolts on side plate and adjusting until level. That all seems fine, however once i remove plate there is nothing to stop the force of the slave cylinder spring pushing the bearing back onto the pressure plate!

Once again thank you all for your time/comments.
Shaun

[Jon Tilson]

Most slave cylinder springs are barely capable of making the piston come back out...
In fact they usually stick when new seals are fitted.
I suspect you have the wrong spring...

Jonners