I am fast losing patience with

[JPB]

So, you have a constantly over-reading gauge and Ken, with his 1500, has what could well turn out to be an under-reading one. Swap senders, job done!

[80Sprint]

I did not let it get so hot this time before i shut it down but the head was getting very hot. Someone here i am sure said i should be able to put my hand on the cam cover. If i did this i would be down the hospital quick sharp. I have fitted an uprated voltage stabiliser and on previous overheating i used a digital thermometer in the housing and the guage seemed fairly accurate.

Hope to get the exhaust manifold skimmed soon as this needed doing anyway and i will put it all back together and run her again and report my findings.

[Carl]

While the engine is getting hot, is the heater blowing hot also ? If not it could be a stripped water pump gear

[paulsprint]

I would say it the pump slipping on the shaft or excessive clearance between impeller and pump face. (not the bolt head) check the clearance of the vanes with bluetack. I once had an engine getting a little warm, i checked the vane clearance after the pump had been set up by the book and found it to be 3mm. tried a different pump cover and i was worse. In the end i set the pump up with a 1mm clearance on the vanes. the engine never gets hot. i have a std sprint rad and a 88 deg stat the temp runs just below the half. After 15mins round castle combe on a hot sunny day reving to 7000rpm the temp just crept up past the half.

[MIG Wielder]

Hi again Mike; Just thinking on this again, can you say which bits you transferred from your old cylinder block to the new one ? For instance do you still have the original crankshaft and con rods transferred over ? What I'm thinking here is possible oil starvation caused by a blocked oil way in the crank or a con-rod causing a LOT of stiffness in the engine as it warms up due to oil starvation. Can you turn the engine over by hand (socket on the crank pulley ) when it says its hot ?
Cheers for now, Tony.

[80Sprint]

I am hoping Paulsprint is on the money with his advice but i am not in a position to try it again until i have the exhaust manifold back and it is all put back together and run again following some pump checks and adjustments.

The block only was used. I used my old pistons and new rings with my old crankshaft which were all in good knick. Old jackshaft as well with a new crankshaft pulley and chain. My old block had masses of play on the jackshaft due to block wear and i thought that created so much play that the pump would not work/spin properly, Now i have the replacement block this is clearly not the issue although this would have caused me issues in the future anyway so was long overdue. The crank would rotate easily after assembly so i think everything is within tolerence.

Although i have a re-built ( twice ) the pump, new pipes and a recored rad i still feel this is a circulation issue so this would point back to the pump , hence my first comments re Paulsprint.

Once i have it back together , probably the weekend after next , then i will report back on the start up after adjusting the pump clearance.

Fingers crossed then , or i may be offering bacon sandwiches , beer tokens , tea and any other bribe for someone with the magic touch to come over and diagnose this. Two members gave up their time when it was running the old block and we could not solve it before the crankshaft bolts let go and i was back to square one.

[jeroensprint]

Maybe needless to say but is your cam timing ok? Are you using a std cam or a reprofiled. When the reprofiling is not ok you can set the cam on the mark but it is not timed ok.

Jeroen

[80Sprint]

Jeroen

Thanks, i would not discount the simplest of idea's at the moment. I have a reprofiled cam and used Mad Marts posted instructions to set it up. I am fairly confident this is ok apart from a bit of tweaking on a rolling road perhaps once i have it running cooler.

[MIG Wielder]

Bacon buttys ??? Black coffee ?? No contest ! I'll bring the Worcester sauce !
Yes, get the mew manifold on and lets have a working party .
I think you must be reasonably close to where I am.
We'll can sort a date and time if neccessary and get some more ideas flowing.
I'm sure we can sort this.
( It does sound like I've been reading the Management handbook today ! )

Cheers for now,
Tony.

[newguy]

Bro read this

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=9129&hilit=+Cooling

[80Sprint]

Thanks Newguy . Interesting read.

I have a brand new expansion tank with a new cap so i am sure that should be ok. I replaced this after suspecting the rusty ring on the old tank. I would also like to keep to the standard tanks looks if i can.

I have some concerns over the pump but i have set this up again. The impellor is pinned to the shaft and i have re-set the gap. 10 thou gap so i put in a 20thou gasket so i should be on minimum clearance. I did try some bluetack on the nut but did not use any on the impellor blades however.

Most of it all back together now but a few bits to go. I can't get back on it for a week or two but will give it a go and try and analyse each part as it warms up. Hopefully it might even stop heating up at half way.

[newguy]

Also a Good Thrash Once she is warm is a good idea, and feel the hoses for the pressure levels

[Lewis]

I see it's been mentioned briefly before but is the radiator blocked? A temperature gun or probe should help you ascertain this.

Sorry if it's a repeat answer, I did scan the thread briefly. Too early to focus properly

[80Sprint]

Well i succeeded in stopping the leak from the bypass hose - One step forward

I set the timimg up and the webers set roughly and she fired into life - Another step forward with added grin factor at hearing her again.

Ran her for 5 mins on the drive. All hose getting hot but i could still grip them. Cam cover ( polished , not original finish so would this make a difference ) is getting very hot again . Too hot to put a hand on it. Rad was also getting hot though so at least ware seems to be flowing.

Dual gauge in car packed up altogether ( oil pressure and water temp - Oil pressure part still works ok ). Could this be a sign it was not reading right ? I will get another one to eliminate any issues there.
I got hold of a laser thermometer and the cam cover was reading 55deg C after 5 mins , the thermostat housing was 60 deg C and the radiator showed 80 deg C near the top.

After a few mins running the 3 steps backwards part began again as i could see bubbles in the expansion tank. I shut her down again and will have to let it cool and pray a re-torque of the new gasket will do the trick.

[jeroensprint]

Thanks Newguy . Interesting read.

I have a brand new expansion tank with a new cap so i am sure that should be ok.

I did overread this sentence. Never assume this will be ok. You can test the tank/cap combination by air pressure and see at what pressure it opens. I run in all my dolomites a home made adjustable cap that opens at about 20lbs. When your cap says 13lbs but opens at 5 it can be causing the overflow/bubbles. The distances from the cap seat and cap valve seat do differ from tank till tank so also the opening pressure. At my work i have lots of new caps because we have lots of different makes of classic cars to repair but sometimes a 7lbs does feel stronger than a 15lbs so the aftermarket manufacturers are not so accurate on their caps.

Jeroen