The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

Not sure if I have made a big error here or not, but should I have loosely fitted the four torque convertor bolts into the flex plate before I fitted the flex plate to the crankshaft?
I assumed that I could fit the bolts through the starter motor aperture when the gearbox was fitted, but the gap between the flex plate and the adapter plate is only 0.540 inches.

I consulted the Haynes manual which is no use at all, it does not even mention removing the starter motor when removing the gearbox.
I think I am looking at removing gearbox and flex plate and starting again?

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1942 Willys Jeep
1960 1385 Austin Mini
1975 Dolomite Sprint Automatic
1973 Dolomite 1850 Automatic
1976 Dolomite 1300 (aka Lucky)

Do you mean that you just laid the bolts in the holes, and then bolted the flexplate to the crank, before fitting the converter and gearbox to the engine? If this is the case then you wont be able to align the converter holes with the holes in the flexplate because the ends of the bolts will be in the way. You also risk them dropping back or falling out and jamming themselves up behind the plate. You need to remove them, hopefully by turning the engine until you can see them through the starter hole, and once they're all out, fit one bolt almost all the way in, just leave it slightly loose to allow some movement to fit the others,(half a turn or so) then turn the engine a quarter of a turn at a time to fit the others, then once they're all in go round again and whip each one out and add a touch of Locktite, then do the final tighten, and then do the same with the other three.

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Currently over 35 years worth of fixing 35 boxes.
Hoping to reach 65 years worth of fixing 65 boxes.

I should explain, i left the bolts out thinking i could fit them later when the gearbox was bolted to the engine but the lentgh of bolt needed to fit is just over half and inch long at 0.540, so i am not sure that this is long enough for the job.

so i thought that i should have fitted them before i fitted the flex plate. plus, the Haynes manula state a torque figure for the bolts, but you can't get a socket on the bolts anyway.

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1942 Willys Jeep
1960 1385 Austin Mini
1975 Dolomite Sprint Automatic
1973 Dolomite 1850 Automatic
1976 Dolomite 1300 (aka Lucky)

You should be able to fit them after the box is bolted in without any problems. I can't remember whether you access the converter bolts through the starter aperture, or whether there's a separate access for them in the engine backplate but there will be access in one of those ways. I sent some Rover converter bolts out recently and they were 3/8"UNFx5/8" long, and they had a 1/8" thick washer under the head, so they aren't all that long anyway. I'd say your's were about right if fitted with a normal thickness washer. I really can't see how you would be able to get it all bolted up if you had the converter bolts laying in the holes in the flexplate before you fitted the box back on. You might not be able to get a socket on, (but tbh I can't ever remember that being the case) but you could use an OE spanner, and if you felt the need to torque them up you could use an OE crows foot on the end of a torque wrench.

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Currently over 35 years worth of fixing 35 boxes.
Hoping to reach 65 years worth of fixing 65 boxes.

Access to the converter bolts is through the backplate under the crank area

On the 1500 dolomites there is a hole in the backplate which gives you access to the bolts.

Harvey, George,

many thanks for the tips and suggestions. Job now completed (loctite and torqued) and yes, the bolts are accesable from underneath.

Malcolm

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1942 Willys Jeep
1960 1385 Austin Mini
1975 Dolomite Sprint Automatic
1973 Dolomite 1850 Automatic
1976 Dolomite 1300 (aka Lucky)