1500 to smoke or melt?

[marko]

Hi there. Years ago I went through 1500 engines like they were going out of fashion for some reason even though I waited at least 500+ miles before gradually going above 3000 rpm.
I'm now getting a 1500 that's been rebuilt we think. What can I do to keep it strong on the bottom end? What mods have people tried?
I only have a 4 speed box so would like the thought of gunning it without killing it. Thanks, Mark.

[Dolly-Nut]

The best you can do is give it some good oil.
Currently the best and preferred choice is Valvoline VR1 and change it with the filter every 3k for longevity. And make sure it's an anti-drain filter!

[Tims Triumph]

The best you can do is give it some good oil.
Currently the best and preferred choice is Valvoline VR1 and change it with the filter every 3k for longevity. And make sure it's an anti-drain filter!

Hi there,
I'm trying to keep my 1500HL's bottom end in good shape too (difficult on motorways with non O/D )
...The thing is it's due an oil change, would you say this is a good type for everyday driving (as it says for racing on ebay).
otherwise I was thinking of getting some halfords classic 20w50 or Morris' would this 'Valvoline VR1' be better?
Thanks, Tim

[Oli_88]

Yes. Vr1 is fine for road use.
Also waiting for the resident ohv expert to stick his head in with some gold advice!
Jod, where are you?

[Tims Triumph]

Yes. Vr1 is fine for road use.
Also waiting for the resident ohv expert to stick his head in with some gold advice!
Jod, where are you?

Is this any better than the halfords or morris' stuff though?

[Dolly-Nut]

Yes. Vr1 is fine for road use.
Also waiting for the resident ohv expert to stick his head in with some gold advice!
Jod, where are you?

Is this any better than the halfords or morris' stuff though?

Hell yes! And only slightly more expensive from eBay. I bought a load in bulk a while back when someone was selling it at £15/5 litres.
It's absolutely fine for road use and will keep wear to a minimum because of its high ZDDP levels.
It's what the majority of classic owners are now using and I haven't heard any complaints yet.

[trackerjack]

Very good question, "Is there a way to make a good 1500?"

Transplant

[Carledo]

The dodge I have heard of (but not tried as i've not had a 1500 personally, though I have had just about every other size from 948 Herald to Stag V8) is one that can only be done with the engine in bits.
The problem with the 1500 (and later "big crank" 1300s) is one of underlubrication, the factory, in its infinite wisdom, increased the bearing journal diameter without increasing the oil flow to lubricate the bigger surface area created which makes the shells run hotter and wear out quicker, especially when subjected to sustained high revs.
The solution is obvious, cross drill the crank to let more oil onto the bearings and fit a high capacity (or at least a "blueprinted") oil pump to supply the necessary quantities of liquid engineeering!
Years back when i was racing my GT6 there were several people campaigning 1500 Spits and this was what they did to help their engines hold together!

Steve

[marko]

When you say cross drill do you mean to turn the crank through 90 degrees and drill through the center again? Also, where can I get a sandwich plate for an oil cooler take off?
Would a pair of hif38s be better than the hs4s? Or I could even get some nice hif44s to fit with some time? Or should I just go for some heavy springs and different needles?

[red rooster]

yup totally agree change oil at 3k buy the best oil u can afford ive got a 1500 auto and this 3k change has worked well so far so good

[triplesfanatic]

If you bide your time you could get a good Sprint lump for under £150. Thats only a few quality oil and filter changes

[red rooster]

:shock : um doesnt that defeat the object of owning different types of dollys though !!!