Quick question on replacing cills.

[Sprintinbits]

How much of the outer cill can be removed for inspection of the inner/reinforcer without needing additional support of the chassis?
The car is free standing on its wheels at the moment.

There are various perforations in both outer cills.
Regarding the inner cills, a small hole was found on the O/S, the N/S was fine.

I have three options that I am considering.
1, Replace full outer cills (both sides)
2, Replace full outer cills and reinforcers both sides (if required and will only know after inspection)
3, Patch outer cills for this year and re do it properly next year (both sides).
Both cills have been previously patched so opt. 3 is the least preferred option really.
Especially as there may be a chance that my welding man is up for a return to action

Thanks in advance

[Jon Tilson]

Doing it properly is the only way. If you just patch it again the inner strengther keeps on rotting away.
Outer cill right off and drill out the spot welds to do so. Then replace as much of the strengther as needed. Do 1 side at a time.

Support the car evenly before cutting and it wont distort.

Use Alun's club panels. Keep the doors in place to get a good fit.

Jonners

[Sprintinbits]

Sounds reasonable Jonners, thanks

Support the car evenly before cutting and it wont distort.

I was thinking along the lines of a scaffold board along the length of the car.
Lifted slightly onto two/three axle stands.
Just to take the strain off the suspension but not necessarily wheels in the air?
What would you advise?

[Jon Tilson]

You need it high enough to be comfortable when fitting and making repair bits for the inner cill strengthener.

You dont want access for the torch restricted too much....

Jonners

[sprint95m]

Sounds reasonable Jonners, thanks

Support the car evenly before cutting and it wont distort.

I was thinking along the lines of a scaffold board along the length of the car.
Lifted slightly onto two/three axle stands.
Just to take the strain off the suspension but not necessarily wheels in the air?
What would you advise?

Colin, my suggestion is to buy 2 (railway) sleepers, cut into quarter lengths and use these to support the car under the wheels.
You will be able to do the sills save the closing end sections. For these, leave until last then, you can confidently remove each
wheel for access knowing that the structure is now strong.
As Jon has said, leave the doors on for as long as possible so you can open/close to check no distortion has occurred.


Hope this helps,

Ian.

[lazeruspete]

i guess it depends what you find when you cut it open.

if you really want to go bonkers (like me) you can do it like this



this was necessary on my shell but it may not be on yours! (lets hope so )

[soe8m]

I do not like those long one line welds. It is not as strong as the original. If you have to do such repairs i make some angles to have no weld inline so they cannot bend/flex that easily. For wings it's ok but sills have to be as rigid as possible.

Jeroen

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[Sprintinbits]

Cheers Guys, some very useful info there.
I was going to sub this work out but I've been surprised by my own test efforts on scrap steel that I may do it on my own....not sure yet....

Rotating on a spit would be nice but would possibly look a little out of place on my driveway

I was concerned that the body may bow in the middle (B Post area) unless the whole underneath is supported fully along its length.

Ian are you saying that supporting at front and rear axles is sufficient on its own?

This will be one of those 'ask four times, measure six times' situations I think, best to be sure though eh!

[sprint95m]

I was concerned that the body may bow in the middle (B Post area) unless the whole underneath is supported fully along its length.

Ian are you saying that supporting at front and rear axles is sufficient on its own?

This will be one of those 'ask four times, measure six times' situations I think, best to be sure though eh!

Colin,
in the first post you stated that the inner sills only need small repair, in which case your car won't sag in the middle because you'll
not be removing the entire sill structure. (Also the transmission tunnel contributes greatly to the rigidity of the bodyshell.)
You can easily check all is well by simply opening and closing the doors as you go proceed.

Yes, supporting the front subframe and the back axle is sufficient.


It is pretty daunting undertaking this type of repair for the first time but it is rewarding once completed.



Ian.

[Sprintinbits]

Excellent Ian, thanks.
Yes, the inners look fine on the outside, only one small hole on one side.
That puts a whole new slant on it.

Practise welding has come on a treat now with a proper gas bottle and light reactive mask.
I'm certainly no expert but much better than a few weeks ago.
Also having more tools like more clamps and nibblers, not just shears, makes a big difference.
There are some trivial areas to patch that I can start with like inside a rear arch.
If that goes well I'll give some serious thought to doing the cills myself

Not sure if you remember some jobs I did a few years ago?
Full nut and bolt subframe strip/rebuild
Carb strip and rebuild.
Gearbox partial strip etc.
I'm not shy if I can work out the correct methods beforehand!

Thanks and stay tuned......