I need to get feedback from members who have experience of failure of the rear lower radius arms on the Dolomite. I know most people are aware that corrosion is a big problem and can lead to failure.
Ignoring the failure due to corrosion for the time being, where are the main areas where the arm is failing, i.e. Where does it need most additional strength? Obviously, certain dimensions cannot be changed, distance between centres of fixing points, fixing point of lower shocker, width at fixing points.
An increase in thickness of material used is an obvious fix but that alone would still leave it prone to stress fractures transmitted through the use of poly bushes. Unless we accept that metalastic bushes need to be used in the fixing points and discount the use of poly bushes at these points.
Anybody any thoughts on this matter?
Also, can anybody assist with an engineering drawing of the offending item showing dimensions that can be used to take to engineering co's with a view to designing an uprated strengthened version? Jez.
Lower rear radius arm improvement Dolomite
- Toledo Man
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Re: Lower rear radius arm improvement Dolomite
As far as I'm aware, Polybush and Super Flex should be fine. I wouldn't fit any other make of bush. It is worth looking into and as you've already mentioned, certain dimensions are fixed but anything that has been created by man can be copied (and improved).
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
Re: Lower rear radius arm improvement Dolomite
Also I found when lowering springs were fitted to the car the back of arm axle end hits the welded bracket
On the axle tending to rip the part just in front of the bush
I just remove 5 mm tapering it out to the top
No more rub marks were found on axle bracket when inspected .
On the axle tending to rip the part just in front of the bush
I just remove 5 mm tapering it out to the top
No more rub marks were found on axle bracket when inspected .
Re: Lower rear radius arm improvement Dolomite
It is details like that that i need to know as that particular part can be factored into a new design. Jez
Yes..
This question may be worth asking in the Motorsport section of the forum....?Reme5969 wrote:Anybody any thoughts on this matter?
Also, can anybody assist with an engineering drawing of the offending item showing dimensions that can be used to take to engineering co's with a view to designing an uprated strengthened version? Jez.
It may be worth contacting LLoydpiestate from the T2000 register. He is commissioning panels for 2000s. These are made using scans of an original panel......
(Scans are over £600 each for said panels.)
http://www.triumph2000register.co.uk/ph ... 2&start=80
I am thinking he will be able to point you towards helpful companies thereby saving you some unproductive running around.....?
Companies such as Rally Design sell tubular arms but I have no experience of these so cannot comment about employing these on a road car.
Ken wood has this type on his (V6 engined) rally Sprint so again he may be able to help.
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_in ... ts_id=7202
Using off the shelf components makes life easier if these are suitable so I am thinking it may be worth looking at what the kit car suppliers have to offer?
Uprated mountings make a lot of noise inside the car!!!
Hope this is useful food for thought,
Ian.
TDC Forum moderator
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PLEASE help us to maintain a friendly forum,
either PM or use Report Post if you see anything you are unhappy with. Thanks.