The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 10:58 am 
Bit more paint removal on the valance but not able to do more until next weekend now. Pictures will be taken.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 2:02 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2014 7:27 pm
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Coming along very nicely Ken.
Thanks for the tips and walkthrough regarding the headlining. Had a look at the "finished" photo, that's really a great result on Flipper. I shall definitely remember that one.

Great stuff. :)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 8:23 am 
You are welcome. The results really are as new. Just take your time with it and all should be well. The other pics have gone unfortunately.

Nothing done this weekend unfortunately due to something else Triumph orientated.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:50 pm 
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Location: East Lothian, Scotland
Hi Ken,
Great to see the work you are doing on the Tolly. You are really putting me to shame, as mine still looks the same as it did four years ago! At least you are inspiring me to do something to mine! Problem is it is in a dusty barn and continually being re-sprayed by pigeons! Are you going to paint the car yourself?
Nick

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1959 TR3A, 1970 Triumph 1300, 1974 Toledo
Image Thanks Photobucket :(


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:11 pm 
Hi Nick, I must admit my car mojo dissipated for a while with the back pain and so on. Glad to say it is returning though.

Yep, I plan to do the painting myself. I think I will get the roof wrapped as it is a pain to do in a home environment. The bodywork will be painted using ordinary paint for the shuts and so on but I will try plasti-dip spray paint for the outer panels and see what it comes up like. Pictures promised.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 1:26 pm 
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Location: East Lothian, Scotland
I am glad that you have found your mojo again! I enjoy reading about the work you do on your cars. My Toledo desperately needs a re-paint. The original paint is porous and worn through in a number of places. I can see all the previous touch-ups and there are a few areas of surface rust to sort. Some areas are speckled with rust, I think from water getting into the pores in the paint.
My car has also had a bump from behind and the bumper mounts are the same shape as yours. I think I will just have to leave it that way, though, as it is impossible to get to the inside to do much about it.
I have an Apolli HVLP sprayer, which I have never used. I love the idea of being able to paint the car, but I have no idea about how much the paint should be thinned, which paints are compatible with others, etc. I have horrible recollections of painting with aerosol cans and watching the paint bubble up as it reacted with teh paint below. I think I need to find a fool's guide to painting a car.
I will be keeping a close eye on how you get on.

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1959 TR3A, 1970 Triumph 1300, 1974 Toledo
Image Thanks Photobucket :(


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 7:18 pm 
Cheers Nick :D

I also have the same spray set up. However, I have a slightly more expendable one if needed but I might just end up doing a panel at a time. Not sure.
Prep really is everything, that is whey I take my cars down to bare metal. Overkill no doubt but at least I know what I am spraying onto. A solid and original top coat is good to flat, degrease and so on but on an old car there may well be all kinds of paints on there plus silicone, etc. The poly disk is a great paint removal tool and pretty speedy too. Bird infested barns are handy for some things but not painting sadly.

Start on one panel and move to the next, that way you don't get overwhelmed. You can do it.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:32 pm 
Getting soft in my dotage, just ordered a rear lower valance for LWT. Not too bad, £34.28 delivered from RB. Leaving it as is would just irritate me.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:33 pm 
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That's a very reasonable price ken

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:05 pm 
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Location: Halifax, West Yorkshire
Ken, I should really take a leaf out of your book. Preparation is everything including getting everything into place and planning the job so it all gets done.

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Toledo Man

West Yorkshire Area Organiser & forum moderator
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Old Brickworks, Wakefield Road, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1EA

1972 Dolomite 1850 auto (NYE 751L - Now for sale)
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - another project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!

Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.

"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:29 pm 
Took me a while to figure it out too mate. Slow and steady with a little variation in between.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 3:54 pm 
I thought it was a bloody good deal tbh, much easier and a better finish will be achieved.

Glenn, haven't forgotten about the doors mate. What sort of timescale are you looking at re: move?

More work took place today with the help of Colin. Cheers mate.

The front bumper irons were removed. Might just get some new one's as they are a bit tatty and would need cleaning up, powder coating, etc. . The headlight mounts were removed and the NOS boot lid fitted. The original one will be cleaned up and kept.

Progress is progress.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 3:59 pm 
I managed to refit the drivers side rear door today. It was pretty easy. Struggled on my own with the drivers door due to the floating plate that the bolts fit into. Anyone got any tips (apart from don't take the bugger off in the first instance lol).

I think I need to get the car out of the garage to do this properly, this will give me more room.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 5:55 pm 
Well, the entire front end is now bare metalled, rust killed and 95% etch primer coated. Some filler required on a couple of sections of the front valance, a shallow ding and some pitting. That's it.

I fitted the MGF steelies to the front wheels and they do look good. No fouling issues that I can see, so all is well. Rears will go on during the week. Just have to swap the doors over now. Then that rear panel will need to be cut out and the new panel fitted.

Cheers

Ken


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:06 am 
Steve/Carledo.... did you get my PM's? :D

Cheers

Ken


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