Autobox not changing up

[Toledo Man]

The autobox on my 1850 isn't changing up. I noticed this on Sunday but I was sidetracked by a faulty HT lead (the king lead) which stopped the car from running. The fluid was changed within the last 6 months (after the MoT) and is still clean. I have topped it up and it is still the same. Once the engine was up to temperature it was still the same. Does anybody have any ideas? The Haynes isn't of much help and the workshop manual has the same information for the fault diagnosis. Harvey, if you're reading this can you offer me the benefit of your wisdom?

[tony g]

Firstly is the oil level correct when engine idling and warm? If so the next thing I'd check is the kickdown cable isn't too tight.You can disconnect the cable at the carbs first then drive the car. It should then change up very quickly when driving. If that works it will need the cable adjusting correctly (which should be in the manual. HTH

Tony

[Toledo Man]

I'll give it a go. The car doesn't get much use aside from going to TDC & TSSC local area meetings so that might have something to do with it. I did a fluid level check and it did need some adding. I'm also wondering if the recent cold weather has had an effect.

[matt of the vivas]

Its not coming out of first gear at all? Or its going first to second but not third?

[Toledo Man]

It remains in 1st gear in both the D & 2 positions.

[harvey]

Look at the kickdown cable where it attaches to the carbs, sometimes the outer cable comes out of the adjuster and that has the effect of making the inner cable tight, the pressures too high, and hence a reluctance to upshift. If that's OK you can as suggested previously disconnect the inner cable and then drive it, but only use very light throttle. If it's the same with the inner cable disconnected then the WM fault checklist will say 1-2 shift valve stuck, but it's far more likely to be the governor sticking.

It could be that you've lost SECOND gear altogether, and the only way to prove that would be to get as much roadspeed as possible in "D" first gear, and then lift off the throttle and if there's no second gear available, it should drop into TOP if the roadspeed is high enough.

[Toledo Man]

Harvey, it isn't changing up at all. I'd be doing 30 mph and an indicated 3500 rpm on the tacho. I did the fluid level check as per your method (put the lever in each position for a few seconds from "P" to "1" and back, get out of the car, walk round it and take a reading on the dipstick). It was a bit low so I added some more fluid. When I changed the fluid, I definitely used the correct stuff (Carlube ATF-G) which is Ford M2C-33G spec and is the correct fluid for the BW65.

[Toledo Man]

I took a look and it was the kickdown cable. Unfortunately, the outer sheath has separated from the threaded part which is attached to the bracket so kickdown is permanently engaged. Even with the cable loosened it is still stuck in kickdown. There's a noise in "P" and "N" that's related to the kickdown cable so that's yet another job to add to the ever growing list. Fortunately, it can be fixed at the same time as the subframe mount so I will avoid any extra labour becaue the transmission will be out of the car. I might even replace the transmission which would be quicker and easier. Rimmer Bros are out of stock, Mick Dolphin doesn't list it and there's nothing on ebay at the moment.

[Jon Tilson]

I think you can change the cable by dropping the sump pan, which is a pain but better than having the whole
box out. Glad you found the cause.

Jonners

[matt of the vivas]

From memory (and mine has Strombergs, your SU set up may be different) the sheath IS loose in the threaded adjuster, the tension in the cable when its adjusted correctly keeps it inside the adjuster?
Certainly mines been like it for years, not had an issue. Surely if the cables not snapped, then refitting the outer cable into the adjuster and adjusting the cable correctly will fix it?

[Toledo Man]

I think the inner cable is just sticking. I'll take a proper look at it another time. I didn't fancy working in the carport with the wind and rain last night.

[soe8m]

The inner cable is not hooked but attached to the mechanism inside the gearbox. When you take off the cable at the throttle mechanism and hold the outer cable in one hand you can push the inner back and you should be able to feel a click. Then you can drive again but have to adjust the cable again. Just drive and when the gearchange is ok it's ok. Otherwise adjust a bit and testdrive again. This happens on my wifes cars about once a year.

The reason is that is was pulled too much, in your case it maybe happened that the outercable was sticking behind the threaded part and then at full throttle it was too much. Just glue orthe outer cable back in place or squeeze the part where the outercable goes in to make it tight again.

Jeroen

[Toledo Man]

I'll take the cable off and run some Plus Gas down the outer sheath and hopefully, that should free it all off. All this wind and rain is a bit off-putting at the moment (I'm partly exposed to the elements).

[harvey]

I'll take the cable off and run some Plus Gas down the outer sheath and hopefully, that should free it all off.

You can try that, but bear in mind what can happen is that the inner cable starts to fray, and then the free ends snag up on the outer cable, and no amount of lubrication will cure that.

[Toledo Man]

I've got nothing to lose (except my sanity) by trying.