Electrical advice please :)

[tony g]

Hi, in the wiring diagrams in both the sprint manual and the haynes, there are, it seems incorrect info.
Basically Im entrusting my electrician mate to sort out the wiring and "modernising" it along the way.

I want relays for the headlamps (going halogen) and at least 6 fuses in a modern blade fuse box.
As he doesnt have the triumph knowledge like some here if I blindly hand him the diagram I'd like to know what needs amending before he gets cracking.

Im not interested in the factory way of doing things, it's more about making it a practical classic in my mind and if that mans chopping the loom to make it reliable (and usable) I'm all for it.

Please add your take on the wiring diagrams

Cheers

Tony

[Ajay]

My advice it label everything as it comes off and take it from there. The diagrams will help in relation to any you cannot work out. Mind you, im an amature..

[Jon Tilson]

Its worth having a separate fuse for all the ignition fed circuits at least.

So separate indicators, wipers and gearbox loom.

I dont see a lot of point in fusing the side light circuit. Bulbs are their own fuses after all and they are mostly spurred
off to earth in parallel.

You could fuse the relay feed for your halogen lights. You want to relay these presumably to cut the load on the column
switch contacts.

You may want to fuse the non ignition bits separately too. Split interior lights from hazard, cigar lighter and horn.

You dont need a lot of mods to the loom. Just identify the feeds for the various bits at the fuse box from the colour code and put them all on different fuses.
A Stag or P6 rover has a nice period fuse box and cover.

Jonners.

[tony g]

I didnt consider gearbox loom so thats a good starting point. I prob will fuse the sidelights in case of any wiring shorts in the future, plus it makes fault finding out in the dark a bit easier.
Im going with a battery in the boot so the main feeds will come from a junction box at the front somewhere (not decided yet), so all ign feeds will be fed from that plus some permanent feeds like lights (with most of them fused)

New fuse box is likely to be hidden under dash for cleanest look I can get plus a ign feed will be going to the tank area for an in tank leccy fuel pump when needed.
This is my first triumph in 30 years and it lasted 3 days before I had to pull the engine so if I cant make this rebuild / refurb into a nice reliable car I'll give up lol.

Any other comments about modernising for reliability are welcome (without resorting to me buying a modern car- I have 2 and theyre boring:))

What would you do?

Cheers

Tony

[MIG Wielder]

Hi, in the wiring diagrams in both the sprint manual and the haynes, there are, it seems incorrect info.
Basically Im entrusting my electrician mate to sort out the wiring and "modernising" it along the way.

I want relays for the headlamps (going halogen) and at least 6 fuses in a modern blade fuse box.

Im not interested in the factory way of doing things, it's more about making it a practical classic in my mind and if that mans chopping the loom to make it reliable (and usable) I'm all for it.

Tony

Hi Tony,
Here are some notes I did some time ago as an aide memoir .

Notes on errors and curiosities in the Dolomite wiring diagrams.

Sprint Workshop manual 1977.

1. p 86-5. Functionality of the fuel gauge sender is wrong (22). Connections are correct though.
2. p 86-5. Wiring of the Automatic gear-lever panel light is wrong (83). Right hand end of the light as shown should be earthed.
3. p 86-5. It looks as if the intention was to add an extra Brake failure warning light in 1977 with the PDWA unit and dual master cylinder (19). With the wiring shown the Brake Failure Switch (20) simply short circuits the white +12V wire to earth. In order to light the Handbrake warning light the black / purple wire should go to the junction of items (13) & (14) the handbrake light and switch.
4. p 86-6. Item 47. This should read "Hazard Flasher switch" not Headlamp Flasher switch.
5. p86-7 ( LHD variants ). Errors 1,2, as above.
6. Here the brake failure switch is shown as connecting to the junction of items (17) & (18) the extra Brake warning light and the oil pressure light which are apparently connected in series so both will work dimly until the brake failure switch operates and lights the extra Brake warning light at full brightness.
7. Interestingly it shows a variant for the Italian market where the reversing lights only operate when the sidelights are on. It also shows separate fusing for the main / dipped beam headlights.
8. The wiring for the rear fog lights is not present.

Haynes 1850 / Sprint manual.

9. This shows the same Brake failure warning light circuit as 6 above but as in insert, for early cars pre 15,000 . Was the PDWA fitted that early ?
10. Fusing for the headlamp circuits for the Italian market is shown as one 25Amp fuse per filament. 6 of them !
11. p 253 has the same problem as 3. above.
12. Italian market variant. This also shows a "sidelights on" indicator and reversing lights wired through the sidelight circuit. The number of headlight fuses is reduced to 2.

The wiring to the heated rear window needs improving over the original. Mine drops 2 V in the + supply and 1V on the earthy side. I intend to increase the thickness of the black earthing wire on the offside and double up the white / black wire running along the nearside to the bullet connector.

Happy electrical sorting !

T.M.

[tony g]

Many thanks TM that's exactly what I'm looking for.
Any more greatly received.

Cheers

Tony

[Latham_F2]

Halfords do some pretty nifty blade fuses with an inbuild LED.
Fuse blows; LED lights to tell you which one has blown, allowing just enough current to pass to light an LED (20mA or so) but not enough to cause any further damage.

I wouldn't want to fit many on a permanent basis (they're a bit too expensive for a start) but it might be worth investing in one or two while you're developing your loom mods. I used to use a modded fuse+lightbulb soldered together for the same purpose.
Definitely makes development + diagnosis a lot quicker and easier.

Tony.

[IncaDolly78]

Might be worth adding a fuse to the side light circuit, although it's rare my car nearly caught fire a few years go after a short occurred at the clock illumination bulb, it melted umpteen wires in the loom together then the exposed wires then became bonded with melted plastic to the bulkhead when I turned the lights on while driving. It has an inline fuse now and lots of insulation on the back of the clock, just in case! As I say rare, but you never know. I also carry a fire extinguisher too, there are several classics on eBay as spares that have caught fire... chilling.

[tony g]

I will have the side light circuit fused as there are quite a few bulbs on there. As you say rare but worth protecting for

Cheers

Tony

[Toledo Man]

The single best thing you can do is to fit relays to the headlights. The live feeds to these MUST be fused unless you buy relays with built-in fuses like I did.

[tony g]

Yes relays are No1 priority, already have those and my new halogen set

Tony

[Edin Dundee]

I will have the side light circuit fused as there are quite a few bulbs on there. As you say rare but worth protecting for

Cheers

Tony

Maybe not that rare - mine also melted due to chaffing of the loom behind the parcel shelf.

[tony g]

I will have the side light circuit fused as there are quite a few bulbs on there. As you say rare but worth protecting for

Cheers

Tony

Maybe not that rare - mine also melted due to chaffing of the loom behind the parcel shelf.

Good reason indeed to fuse it all. In my case its a matter of me telling my mate what I need and he will do it plus stuff I haven't thought of. I rebuilt his discovery gearbox for free (easy) and he will refurb my wires free ( I hate wires)

Cheers

Tony